Brake Line and Proportioning Valve Install Tips F100

preview_player
Показать описание
Brake Line and Proportioning Valve Install Tips F100

Episode 457 Autorestomod

We install a set of NPD brake lines and a Brake Proportioning valve on our F100. We show how to make a Brake Proportioning valve mounting bracket.

Insta: Autorestomod
Facebook: Autorestomod

Parts:
Brake Line Set, Carbon Steel, 8 Piece:F-2266-32
Valve, Brake Proportioning, Black Anodized Finish:2B091-1A
GEARWRENCH Double Flaring Tool Kit - 41860
Рекомендации по теме
Комментарии
Автор

I like this format of video much better than in the past. This was done much more professional without all the attempt at funny little skits.

johnnymula
Автор

Best advice ever by him saying "stay in your neighborhood the tow bill is cheaper" just that right there is worth watching the video 👍

tristonstone
Автор

Very nice job as always! The only downside to the adjustable proportioning valve on the street is you no longer have the brake pressure warning light to notify you of a failure. Just pointing it out to those who are not aware.

PS. The only reason you beat me putting in the brake lines is you had The Super Duty Industrial Strength "Cam" helping you. ALL HALE

the_fomoco_man
Автор

Good episode. Clean information, filmed well and less jokes, fluff and banter 👍🏼

angeloc
Автор

When doing a conversion to disc in the front I like to use an original type of combination valve for this off of a newer disc brake truck instead of the adjustable proportioning valve. The combination valve has a metering block in the front lines to allow the rear brakes to engage first overcoming the springs in the drum brake. It then engages the front brakes and causes all four to do the stopping. Without it in low pressure braking the front brakes do all the stopping and the rears never engage. After the brakes all apply there is a proportioning valve in the rear line because of the self energizing affect that drum brakes have and disc don't. This is to keep the rear brakes from locking up before the front brakes. There is also a residual valve in the rear line to keep about 10 pounds of pressure in the rear to keep the wheel cylinder cups expanded and not let air get into the system through the wheel cylinders. The last job of the combination valve is only for safety in the case of a loss of any part of the system. It is the shuttle valve that will slide and close off the side of the system that failed so that you will still have some brakes and not lose all the fluid. This also has a switch on it that will turn on the brake failure warning light. So in conclusion just installing an adjustable proportioning valve in the rear line is not the best or safest method to keep the rear brakes from locking up.
On another note I use a turret style flare tool that is much faster and more precise than the manual clamp type. I also use a pair of tube bending pliers to get nice tight bends close to the nut on the end of the line. I also use copper/nickel line as it has superior corrosion resistance and it can be hand formed easily without kinking. I have found that S.U.R.&R. Line kits work well with superior line quality. They also have a selection of flare nuts that fit those odd size master cylinder ports.

jamesford
Автор

I wish you would do a video on how to adjust that proportioning valve, or what to look for when adjusting it.

markhawkins
Автор

Thanks for another handy video! Regards from a F100 driver from germany.

donveterano
Автор

i always learn something from this channel so its time for me to share. i always soak down brake lines with wd40 and take a punch and punch the flats on opposite sides of the flare nut and they always come loose for me

thGloryMonday
Автор

I bought that style of flare kit and it was absolutely worthless. I then bought a Titan flare tool from the parts store and it actually made straight, nice flares

abfavero
Автор

Dude, sweet! I live right next to ocala! Thanks for the recommendation.

oemergyo
Автор

I’ve got a question for ya. I replaced my back brakes on my 72 the other day. I replaced all the hardware, wheel cylinder, and the shoes. I even went as far as cleaning the brake drum and painting them…😂 But anyway when I had the wheel cylinder off I let the line gravity bleed for a little while before I replaced the wheel cylinder and kept a close eye on the master cylinder to make sure it didn’t run out of fluid. Basically I was doing a fluid change on that particular line because it had some stuff that didn’t look great in the line. But anyway we got it back together and pumped the brakes and cracked the bleeder valve and didn’t get any pressure, we tried a few more times and still no pressure. But I know for a fact it has free passage from front to back but it won’t build pressure… Thanks in advance.

jimmywilson
Автор

I had 2 after market proportioning valves fail while driving. Thankfully I was able to stop w/o a collision. I’ve now installed a heavy duty truck valve on my ‘70 F250. Won’t know if that solved the issue until I finish the total re-wire.

markbergthold
Автор

Which way do you turn valve to apply psi for rear brakes

mikecrolick
Автор

On those rounded off line nuts, if I am going to replace the line anyway. I will cut them off flush with the nut and use an external bolt/nut extractor that I can put a ratchet on. The tighten first to loosen, I have several things I use that on, it works. I don’t know why, And don’t care, just glad it does.

RealWorldGarage
Автор

can you use this valve with factory front discs and rear drums or do i have to have the original one with the brake warning thing.

RallyRogue
Автор

I installed the type of wheel cylinder bleeder valves that doesn’t let air back into the system. They are nice. How do I know if my proportioning is working correctly that is located on the front wheels cross member?

markwoten
Автор

I am about to swap my 1969 front brakes to 1976 disc. my question is the MC for the 76 the exit ports are on the right side but the one you had is on the left side. I like the left side exit, do you have a part number for the MC you used. The 77 F100 from NPD shows the exit on the right side. Also did you have any issues with the MC rod to the booster. Loved the videos.

terryrobinette
Автор

Is there somewhere that shows how to install a proportioning valve. Ive never heard of one I would like to see what goes where how do you know which set of brakes goes in what hole etc.

frekkledipped
Автор

So I have a 69 f100 2wd and just did the 73-79 disc swap I'm about to order a master and booster but I also need all new brake lines there are complete kits online but which should I order? Brake lines for a 73 and up? Or for a 69?

matthillmann
Автор

So just finished install. NO pressure to back brakes at all. checked pro valve and seems to have fluid thru all lines. Even removed it and checked it with low air. Im lost. Any ideas?

tyclute