How To Remove Snipe | All The Tips And Tricks Plus a Simple Jig

How To Remove Snipe | All The Tips And Tricks Plus a Simple Jig

In this video I will show you all the most common used methods to remove snipe while using your thickness planer. Plus at the end I will show you a simple jig that solved the issue for me and its super easy to use.

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[Matimila]

Thanks Tomasz 🙏🏾. I appreciate this reel and shall be making a jig when I next use my thicknesser.
Your teaching style is very clear and simple- exactly what I need.
I shall have a good dig through your others to see what gems you have.
YouTube at its best.

[stevestatler]

Was talking bout this problem the other day with a friend.... Them boom... of course "THEY" were listening and as I was scrolling along ....your video came across with wut I needed to see...click on and now you have another subscriber ..head slapper ...simple jig to a big problem...thanx for making me feel stupid.. can't wait to feel stupid again watching your channel! 👍 Keep up the good work!

[AtomicSaunders]

Hello from Los Angeles. Thank you for helping me solve this problem. Good health and wisdom to you and yours.

[norm]

Very entertaining information, stay warm, safe, happy and healthy. From Henrico County Virginia

[timnevinger]

I just got an older planer restored enough to be usable. I found out right away that the infeed outfeed tables on the machine and the technique used is the difference between serious project ruining snipe or flat boarss! I got some perfect snipe free boards but it is NOT easy to perfeftly replicate the technique every single time. You are the second source I have seen to build a feed jig like this. So thats next for me! Thank you!

[williamkilpatrick]

As usual your video is very informative. I've made this and found it did help. One thing I did have a problem with was the board I was putting through went to the side and caught on the side of the thicknesser at the adjustment screw. The original table has guide rails to stop this happening so I had to put guides on the board too. Also I had to put a flat piece of thin ply on the stop that went under the origional table because it was lifting feed in end as the wood went on the discharge end. I have a titan thicknesser planer and this has solved the problem. Thanks again for a great video.

[rossen_nikov]

Hello Sir, just short addition to your solution. To be clear, I'm not opposing your solution and the next is not my observation/discovery (somebody else provided it). So, as you explained when the front roller is off the wood can rise. However, if you slightly (fraction of a mm) rise the outfeed table than the problem with good chance of success, can be avoided too because the outfeed table will try to push the wood against the bed. As well, it is important to lock the cutting head vertical movement - that is another reason we observe snipes, the cutting head can "twist/drop" when one of the rollers is not engaged. At least it works for me (having the same machine). Respect!

[inrock]

I've found that feeding pieces in at a slight angle helps in a lot of instances for some reason. I try to enter the piece so it meets close to one end of the first roller and exits at the opposite end of the second roller. If you stand behind your planer and visualize entry and exit with your work piece, you can get pretty good at this. If nothing else, you're using the full length of your blades so they don't just wear down in the center. I've also adjusted my outfeed table up at a very slight angle to mimic holding the board up as you demonstrated at around 6:40 in your video. This also seems to help. If you can't completely get rid of your snipe, just make sure it occurs on the side of your piece that will be less visible, say underneath a table for example.

[garyloudermilk]

Thanks for your excellent synopsis on the subject of snipe. I agree that infeed and outfeed tables are a major issue . Solution of jig is a good answer as well as lifting up alightly at the beginning and 😂end of the tables really helps!

[kenmurayama]

Thank you for this video going over so many options. Most of them I've tried at some point with varying but not reliable success. While I've tried the long board, I did not think to create a stop on the infeed side as you did—instead, I used clamps that weren't as effective and got in the way. I also didn't think to wax the surface. I do have melamine board that was from an office desk, so I'll try that next time. Cheers!

[anthonyziadie]

This is a great tip, I’ve been plagued by this. Can’t wait to try it.

[johnvodopija]

Solid advice right there. I like the idea of using the jig. Cheers mate 👍😎🇦🇺

[johntaylor]

Lots of timber laying around. I sense a big project coming up :). Thanks for the video as ever.

[barry.w.christie]

Very informative video Tomasz ... on cheaper machines the infeed/outfeed tables are definitely rubbish, but your simple addition of a continuous bed should mean even a cheap planer should work a lot better 👍

[donroutledge]

Excellent tip Tom I use the slight lift at the end method 👍

[MCsCreations]

Excellent work, Tomasz! Thanks for all the tips! 😃
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊

[mundlkalli]

THANK YOU very much . I have not packed out my new planer yet, but I have read alot about snipes and how to fix video has been the best so far to understand ...simple explanation and to others. My only problem is how to adjust the thickness now since I am loosing for example 1/2 inch. Thank you again

[philbrandon]

Nice instruction for the snipe, and of which many probably don't know as not own a planer as such, but should be aware of especially on hand planes.
I own the Triton TPT125 and have had it for 6 years, with snipe for a few months, until I came across Stumpy Nubs idea and used that to remove it. I adjusted it for my own use.
My own preference lies with a 9mm MRMDF sheet, in a very similar concept to yours, but not only using one stop block on the in feed end; I have another on the out feed end to keep it snug and very tight in movement. These strips are also cut from the same material board.
My thickness scale is also adjusted to reflect that 9mm difference, of which has been relabelled to reflect the material, and only a loss of 9mm to my height. So much easier than trying to calculate as you do it at the time. 👍

[RYwoodview]

Thank you, Tomasz! I think your emphasis on the flexibility of the usual adjustable/foldable infeed/outfeed tables on most portable planers as the primary problem is correct. That is rarely recognized.
I still use a Delta 22-540 planer I purchased in the 1990's for a little over $200 then that came with steel, removable but fixed tables that clip onto the planer bed on each side. Once precisely shimmed to the exact same height, absolutely NO snipe with just the most minor lift of the wood on entry & exit of the planer. (Still necessary to account for the knives grabbing the wood before the following roller.) My melamine extension, fitting just over those tables and supported by them is therefore just as flat and works beautifully for longer boards.
The result is perfectly planed boards. I added a Wixey gauge though rarely use it. If I ever care to, I can add a Shelix head for $400 or so. Even then, my simple basic planer can be the equivalent of any of the fancy ones going for $900 up nowadays. I wouldn't trade it.
It may be possible to adjust folding tables as exactly but there's no way they can stay as rigid as fixed ones. Unless one needs to carry a planer around, I'd routinely replace them with fixed ones on the planer table.

[buckrichardson]

Great video thanks from Pearland, Texas