How to treat dark spots and hyperpigmentation

How do you fade hyperpigmentation, like dark spots, melasma, post-acne marks or age spots? Here's what you need to know.

0:00 How does pigment form?
2:07 Step 1: Prevent melanocyte stimulation
5:27 Step 2: Reduce melanin production
7:27 Common active ingredients
10:04 Pigment treatment mistakes
13:25 Step 3: Reduce melanosome transfer
14:05 Step 4: Increase skin turnover
14:55 Clinical treatments
16:20 Oral treatments, tranexamic acid

🙋🏻 I'm Michelle, a chemistry PhD, cosmetic chemist and science educator, here to explain how beauty products work, debunk myths, and help you make smarter decisions about your skincare, hair and makeup!

References:
Baumann's Cosmetic Dermatology

📺 RELATED POSTS AND VIDEOS

[Kasatrea]

Don't mind me, just commenting for the algorithm

[Sentient_Goose]

I NEED THE BOOK! I'm obsessed. I'm going to buy multiple copies for every single person that I know. Friends. Coworkers. Family. Random strangers. Every single person in my life.

[Anonymoushaha]

Every one of your videos is always an 11/10 for information in such a digestible manner. You’re truly incredible

[rrenatabp]

I used to think my skin was more prone to PIH than others and therefore I was doomed for a lifetime of having post acne marks on my face as I am acne prone. Lo and behold when I finally got into a proper sun protection routine (wearing and reapplying sunscreen everyday), I get literally almost no marks left on my face after a pimple.

[denisha]

The other benefit of wearing foundation and sunscreen together is that you have an objective measure of how well you're fading your pigmentation. That day when you realise you can leave the colour corrector or concealer for special occasions and just use foundation as a daily cover up? That day when you realise you got to the end of summer without having to tint your foundation to a deeper shade? It really motivates you to keep up with your skincare routine. Good to know the foundation on its own was serving another purpose.

[corinastoian]

My husband started using sunscreen everyday only after I moved in with him (bf at that time :))). He is pretty bad with having a skincare routine (basically non existent) but he will never skip sunscreen. It took roughly two years to see the pigmentation on his forehead fading away, and sunscreen was all he needed.

[turnbacktime]

Thanks for another informative session. Love your humor and skills. I’m 66. Now rowing up hill because I was a teenage idiot. On a positive note…..Azelaic acid, Tretenoin, alpha Arbutin, AHA/BHA peels and Niacinimide have repaired my skin. It’s been 9 months so far. I’m sure it will be a full year before I’m where I want to be. One year is a short time when I consider how much damage I did. If you’re reading this, don’t give up.❤

[empressofsaturn]

Since that's the only thing I can explain here...."topical" comes from the Greek word τοπικός which comes from the word τόπος (topos=place). For here it's more like saying "in this particular place only" in general in Greek we use it the same way as the English word "local" ❤

[seanvalentinus]

What if we want *less* pigment in our skin, but *more* dumplings in our mouth?

*WHAT THEN MICHELLE???*

[pilomatrixoma]

As a certified histology nerd, I like the diagram! Although it’s a little different than what you showed. I’m a pathologist, and I look at skin biopsies/excisions just about every day. Melanocytes deposit their pigment almost exclusively in basal keratinocytes, right at the base of the epidermis (where melanocytes normally hang out too). Makes sense, because these are the actively dividing cells, so they’re the ones that need the extra DNA protection. Melanin isn’t usually seen above this layer. Visible transepidermal elimination is pretty uncommon, although you do see it in some nevi and in melanoma.

I wonder if this is why it can be tough to treat. Getting products into the stratum corneum is one thing, but we’re talking about cells sitting right next to the dermis here.

[ishathakor]

i got really bad hyperpigmentation from acne about two years ago. for a year now i've been consistently using vitamin c serum and exfoliating once a week (and using sunscreen of course) and i only really noticed a change about a month ago when i saw my parents again after a long time. the change can be so gradual you don't even realize it's happening at all, like watching your hair grow every day until one day you realize it's really long now. i tried to take photos to compare but i'm very bad at that stuff so i never noticed. glad to know it's working at least. i currently use an untinted mineral sunscreen but i'm looking into getting a tinted one when i run out because of the white cast.

[porksteambun]

Im begging Michelle BEGGING for a specific video on post inflammatory erythema, your thoughts, recommended ingredients and products. Would love to hear your take based on scientific evidence, , i've watched a bunch of videos already with many of them saying different things usually. I'll buy your book while i wait thanks heaps always love your vids !! ❤

[beanaguts]

Would you be able to do a video on expiration dates for cosmetics? I’ve seen some of your short form videos debunking other creators sanitizing makeup products but I’d love to see a more in-depth video on product shelf life!

[troubiemakie]

I'm glad you brought up the vitamin c derivatives video because I thought I was crazy when I went looking for it lol

[pink]

I just found your video because I have hyperpigmentation and dark spots and then I realised that I’ve got your book!! 😊

[sebu.]

Hi Michelle. I’m from Latin America, I had suffer from hyper pigmentation for several years, and I can say with confidence that Hydroquinone has been my hero ingredient. I live in the north of Chile, the sun is ruthless (like in Australia) I use the Avene Fluid Sport 50+ sunscreen every day to protect my skin

[tartaru]

I learned a lot. Currently hyperpigmentation is my main skin concern.

[Mr.Waterhouse]

I literally just developed my first melasma on top of my bald head - thanks for this!!

[vendettea]

this is exactly what I wanted! I'm about to turn 21 so I'm still young with not too many concerns right now, but I really want to take care of my skin properly for as long as possible but it's so hard to find someone to trust... so thanks for being a truthful voice in all of the chaos Micheelle. Right now my best friends are moisturiser and well applied sunscreen, that's some of the top advice I've gotten from your videos, thank you so much for all the hard work you do and have done!

[DBRWMN]

I found hydroquinone extremely effective and well-tolerated by my skin. More than popular exfoliating acids or retinol. Shame it’s so demonized cause I can’t find any products in my local beauty stores with it as an ingredient anymore