How to test a cam sensor with a voltmeter

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The tests shown in this video apply to camshaft, crankshaft and vehicle speed sensors on ALL Chrysler models, in all production years. The vehicle being tested is a 1997 Jeep with a 4.0L engine.
Chrysler has changed very little in regards to their hall effect sensors throughout the years. Older systems used an 8-9v reference circuit (power supply), where the newer systems use 5v. And with all of them, the signal circuit is a 5v pull-down design.

Engine Performance Diagnostics chapter 21 pages 20-29

Tests shown
- how to check a cam sensor with a voltmeter
- what does an on/off digital signal look like on a voltmeter
- how to check the 5v reference and ground to the sensor
- how to perform a bypass test
- how to verify signal circuit integrity
Tools used
- digital multimeter
- jumper wire
- backprobing pins
- incandescent test light
- scan tool

Related videos
- 1997 Dodge Neon no start, crank sensor problems
- How to test a crank sensor (Chrysler Dodge Jeep)
- How to test a crank sensor with a voltmeter (All Chrysler models)
- 2003 Chrysler-Dodge 3 8L No Start (faulty crank sensor)

Playlist
(Chapter 21) Ignition inputs, cam and crank

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Due to factors beyond the control of ScannerDanner LLC, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. ScannerDanner LLC assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. ScannerDanner LLC recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of ScannerDanner LLC, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not ScannerDanner LLC.
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Mitchell has a program for a "day pass" if you want to call it that. I'm not sure the web link off hand but I know they have it.

ScannerDanner
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I replaced one of these in a 4.0 jeep today, the odd thing to me was I I plugged the good one In and ran a hose clamp through it, and it didn't change cam count, but it worked once installed.

nickoglock
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On a hall effect cam sensor is the voltage suppose to drop when the cam magnet passes in front of the sensor or is it suppose to jump to 5v? PLEASE ANSWER.

Graffik
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KNOWLEDGEABLE Sir ScannerDanner
Thanks 👍
Sir ScannerDanner
From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧

nickayivor
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i that little rod or probe a can opener thingy that you sometimes get on corned beef and stuff. If it is.... bloody brilliant idea. love yer vids mate. All the best to ya.

MMSDK
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Low voltage on ABS system. Hydraulic Pump is there a video.

troyjohnson
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So the dvom is connected to sensor signal and battery ground?

mrgalea
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It is possible that there was a cam or crank sensor driveplate/trigger wheel change up in the model years. Search my 2004 Dodge Caravan video.
This could cause this condition. Are you a member of iATN? You could search their waveform library. Or do you have a scope that you could give me the waveforms from?

ScannerDanner
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Where do you get that back probe Dan?

shameelali
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That's actually a back-probe pin. I've seen the long straight pins used for sewing used for this as well.

mattpendley
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Hey Paul I have a 2001 Dodge Intrepid 3.5 that will only run with the Cam unplugged. The owner has replaced both Cam and Crank sensors. I checked the wiring to the Cam, 8.91 on supply 4.96 volts on signal unplugged 0.06 plugged in and ground is 0.02. When I crank with the Cam plugged in the tach will rise to 1500 rpm. Also when I plug the cam in the ASD will click and fuel pump will do its prime then everything is silent. What are the chances that the timing has jumped? Thanks

ahillny
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where can you get wiring diagrams if you dont have mitchell or alldata

hddm
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So you put one lead from the scope to the crank sensor signal wire and another lead on battery ground?

mrgalea
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Great video dude! Very well explained. $10k Verus does make it easier though doesn't it!

mattpendley
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What would happen if I put the black test lead on the black ground wire instead of battery ground?

inmyexpression
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in know this was a long time ago, but I have a P1391 error and since that doesn't specify which sensor is bad so I am using a 2 trace scope to watch both, It would be interesting to see both signals together and their relationship. (could see a broken flywheel tooth too perhaps). Just a thought. 

OldePhart
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My 2000 Silverado with the multi meter set on 200m reads 17.0 then when cranking spikes to 19.3 and then stays around 16.7 then when i stop cranking Spikes to 24.8 then back to 17.0. isn't that way to high? I have my negative lead on the negative battery and positive connected to the cam signal. The cam sensor is not connected.

I have had a warm hard start the last 2 years. If i let the truck sit for 5-30minutes after driving then try to restart it, it won't start unless I hold the gas pedal down. The truck fires Right up on cold starts and after sitting 1-2hrs after driving. This all started happening after I replaced the cam sensor connector, but im getting signal through it on my multimeter. Ive tried everything, fuel pump and every sensor, a different PCM, cannot figure out whats wrong. I literally want to drive the truck in a ditch lol. Please help! No codes, but for some reason it is trying to flood itself on warm starts and had a body shop use a scanner said everything looked good besides it runs really rich at idle. They didn't notice anything that could be causing the hard start.

christophermix