PROBLEM SOLVED for Tub Flange when Installing Cement Board and Tile

PROBLEM SOLVED for Tub Flange when Installing Cement Board and Tile. The tub flange can really be a pain in the butt when installing a tile tub surround. In this video I share some tips that will help you during your tile installation.
I also share how to prep the corner bead for tile and how to end cement board at the sheetrock.

Here are the links to tools I use. If you use these links I do get a commission and my family and I thank you very much for your support!

iRobot Handheld Vacuum H1 - (coming soon)

This is where you will find all the tools I mentioned in the video

While you are there hit the like button!

[JustFixIt]

This is an excellent video. Explained by someone who is actually doing the work, in simple terms, using products that are available to us mere mortals. Thanks for making this one.

[hollyg]

It made me smile when you added “and gals” thank you! This is a great video. Just the info I’ve been looking for and I haven’t seen anyone do that with the Waterproofing membrane on the taped tub flange but I LOVE it I’m going to definitely do that. It makes sense it likes to stick better than thinset. Thank you!

[rattown]

There is a lot of controversy about where to put the wallboard on the tub flange and the tile institute recommends placing the board over the flange and onto the rim of the tub but I have seen so many failures when this is done that I would have to disagree. This is a great video on giving yourself the best shot at not having a failure! Common sense and experience tells me that the silicone joint between the finished tile and the tub will not be properly maintained and will eventually fail causing water penetration behind the tile. This method will prevent the wallboard damage that I am continually repairing at the job site. Great job!

[binaryglitch]

I go an 1/8 of an inch above the highest part of the tub (called the lip)... this is because I've demoed a more than tub or two in my life (hundreds) and ALL boards including concrete fiber boards such as HardieBacker, or Redguard, or Kerdi Board, etc even with Aqua Defense and good caulking, still ALL boards put below the lip wick up moisture and begin to grow mold. I've seen it too many times to be convenienced otherwise. Always go at least on if not above the lip. You can fill the gap with mesh tape and thinset to support the bottom edge of the bottom tiles, then caulk it (after tiling).

[timothylauth]

Very helpful!!! Thanks! Answered my questions perfectly (not the manufacturers laboratory or new construction “perfect world” explanations). Not an actor, just a real-world person offering practical recommendations for do it yourselfers and solutions for real world problems.

[vegantreemama]

Thank you so much for your videos. My husband and I were lost in the confusion of whether to install above or over the flange. Your video explained everything perfectly and we can proceed with installing our shower pan and cement board in confidence.

[JamesDavis-dnwo]

I've seen other videos where they put on waterproofing after the thinset. I also saw one guy who put on flashing on the flange going up the wall studs about 6 inches or so behind the cement board.

[thomassinclair]

Thanks! Yours is the 8th or 9thbl video I watched for this information, and it's the one with the best, clearest, and most sensible answers regarding combining all the materials at that tub edge, which is totally trashed after many years. In this case, they had the board just above the flange, but it was sitting on some type of narrow stick that is so rotted that it is unidentifiable. That stick rested on the edge of the cast tub, with the tile extended over board and stick, down to the metal, with the joint then caulked. Been here 18 years. It's never been great, but only recently disintegrated. I will use your method for the repair.

[overcomer]

This was extremely informative. And I saw a whole shower install series you did a year ago. Keep going!! You have great content. This channel will blow up soon!!

[SuperCryptical]

This was a great video. I learned volumes about finishing off the flange area and taping the seams properly. Another item which was covered, was the transition between cement board and gyproc for the wall area. So very helpful for us DIY squad. Thanks very much!

[chowsman]

Nice video. I've been doing renovations for 20 years and do all my own tiling. In my opinion compared to other products Laticrete products are awesome. I use Hydroban liquid all the time and it always requires two coats. Using Hydroban Board along with Latasil caulking. I've used Laticrete, Schulter, Wedi, cement board, denshield, etc.... And saying that my go to solution is Denshield with Hydroban Liquid with taped corners. Latasil for the caulking. I like the fact you mentioned raised corners with the Schulter product (pain in the ass). There are pros and cons to using these different substrates as they relate to flexibility and ease of carrying into the job site. The choice of products can also speed up your work as well. (i.e. board and start to tile the same day).

[fattysgarage]

I did mine exactly the same way but used red guard and the fiberglass mesh tape. It was many years ago and looking back I think it was the way to go.

[thomasgibbons]

Hello Joe. Very good instructional. Spot on as the saying goes. I used Latacrete products exclusively since the late 70's. Setting every type of tile made on over every type of bedding board or mortar. Hydro-ban introduced a wide area of applications and problem solving waterproofing issues and we were very happy. My personal favorite products are 4237, 3701, and Hydro-ban. However, having used all of Latacretes products I recommend all of them.

[kalebbrown]

Thank you thank you thank you. Been in the trades for a long time, but never messed with tile that much till now. I know floating the entire wall solves a lot of issues, but sometimes it’s not in the cards. Just installed the densshield on my first solo bathroom remodel and I freaked when I saw two corner areas where the lip protrudes past the densshield by just a tiny bit. But also that it’s 12x4 subway tile I was worrying about only adhering some of the tile to the wall on the first layer. Yea another layer of 1/4” cement board would help. But I rather float the wall than do that. I watched your other video on filling imperfections for plumb and while hesitation strikes on doing that. I see how it could work. I tried straightening studs, but on the wall with a custom niche that goes almost corner to corner I had issues. Planned the studs, then framed the niche. That wall backs against another wall so planning was the thing to do, or fur it out. I’m not good with the internet but I think I subscribed. I really like your videos. Many thanks!!!

[steffendetrick]

I literally just used all of this stuff on a shower. Are used Schlueter brand, but the exact same principle. It is far as the flange or the lip on the tub. I actually trench the bottom back side of what you’re calling the Curti board and run it over the lip. It does become very thin and somewhat flimsy, but so is tape.

[cliffthompson]

Brother I just put in a shower unit yesterday and I tried to explain to my boss that running it over the flange was wrong because it was bending the bottom of the Hardie board. He argued with me and told me that I was wrong even after I did all the research. I only needed common sense to tell me it was wrong. But he's just too bullheaded and I don't think I'm going to be working for him 4 long.

[RaadHerfi]

Awesome video man. First timer doing my own tile work in bathroom & this definitely helped a lot! Subscribed

[mitchellminnick]

Needed this video for a DIY shower with tub I’m working on. Thanks!

[tonyvee]

Great Job., .May the Almighty continue to bless and guide u as well

[Rockettman]

I've also seen it suggested to shim out the backer board by a few millimeters so that it sits in front of the tub rim. To do so, my idea was to use some very thin plywood as furring strips on the studs. Note that 1/2" nominal thickness Hardie Backer is actually 0.42 inches thick, so some minor furring will help it stay in the same plane as the 0.50" thick drywall that is typically butted up against it. To shim or to not to shim?? I'd appreciate any comments.