Glue ins are great unless they are not.

Glue ins are great unless they are not.
Mixing good glue well is essential.

[Cragdognamedbear]

Personally I like being able to pull out my bolts and inspecting them for corrosion or damage before trusting them.

[nobodyisbest]

It'd be interesting to see if the bolt is good for a fall, even if the glue has deteriorated.

[markpell]

I only use glue-ins in situations where pullout force is negligible. As a lifelong craftsman/tradesman, I've learned never to completely trust life or safety to glue.

[stephendosson]

This happens when the coponet parts are either not mixing well or old AF and is why you need to do a pull test with a propper hydrolic pull test machine. The newer ones are relatively small and inexpensive. Strictly speaking, a pull test should be done yearly as done in rope access

[johnsprinkles]

Even in construction I don't trust these anchors for shit

[nicoduck]

Was there even glue in the hole? Looks so clean

[Davidlyle]

Didn’t even make the dust stick to the bolt!! Are you sure they used it or did someone steal it to huff the fumes?

[The_otschi]

As an mechatronics engeneer I would expect the bolt still holding full strength when loaded in all but a narrow window of angles across the axis inline with the bolt, the glue only works ahainst pullout all other failure modi are uneffected so yes this point is compromised and shal therfore be treated as invalid and as if it would fail when loaded but If you did not notice this is still unlikley to couse an accident

Unlikley however means there is a chance and this chance is still way higher then the one we deem accapteble risk, we always have a cance of Equipment failure due to manufacturer error, false application, accumulative wear and tear (due to missuse) falure of the rock, but we desided there is a threshold of accapteble risk and part of that is not to use any visible or known compromised gear

Also we rareley know the chabces of failure but tere should be some Levels of resundancy so this sould not be a single point of falure, with single points of falure the chances would add so if ou have a compromised pint with a 3% chance of failure and we assume our non compromised other gear has a 0, 05% chance of failure we now have a 3, 05% chance of failure so likley a multitude of accapteble risk which I would set in this context somwhere around 0, 08% so our gear has some rome for wear and tear but is still way below one promille chance

If we have a redundant system with two bolts (having them in line while increasing your fall distance is still redundant, also I dont account for the risk of injurie due to falling alongside the bolt if it comes lose, [heavy, somewhat sharp object which is gided by the rope to move in your direction]) assuming the other bolt would be itself around 0, 001 chance of failure would be 0, 00003% so even the compromised bolt drasticly increases safety in a redundant System

I further would argue that with more points still only two are relevant for clinbing if the are in line couse when two bolts fail the fall distance is already danerously high (assuming the bolts dont already took a significant load during their falure wihich actually is verry likley)

[Max_Janszen]

It's in shear, it'll be fine just don't fall THAT way

[thomasdalton]

Isn't the clue in the name? Glue-in bolts require glue...

[zlmdragon]

Those were clearly screwed in not glued in

[woolfeythehunter]

HILTI has an Adhesive that i used when i Anchored a Wall off 50T, A bit expensive maybe but worth it in the Long run... and i know Ppl r going 2 Bach me 4 this... But why do yall not Drill it Deeper if you r going 2 have a Anchor in it?!

[turquoisephoenix]

Why don't they just squirt the glue in before putting in the bolt?

[avocadoarms]

That has no glue at all… that’s rocks dust am I wrong here? Literally 0 residue on the bolt…

[geertwillaert]

With Hilti HVU anchor this won't happen.

[TheSubieFan]

Yeah but is it super good enough. Not like the force is lareral often.