Tools Not To Buy | Learn From My Mistakes !

Rob shares the 9 tools he will never agian buy
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[johnspathonis]

Hi Rob. A message should be ---don't be afraid of modifying tools to suit personal preferences. That heavy handled chisel - make a new handle. That out-of-square mortise chisel, get it re-ground square. Etc etc. No tool is sacred. If there is a sharp corner that annoys, grind it off. Enjoy the channel. Cheers!!

[thomasowens]

Buy whatever tools you feel you need for the job, mastering good quality traditional tools expand your skills.

[ERone]

Because of lung problems I am currently replacing a lot of power tools with hand tools. This video is very helpful. Thank you!

[williamw]

Just to add my 2 cents as a japanese wood worker for the dozuki saw. Unlike western saws many japanese saws are ground for either hardwoods and softwoods. Usualy for hardwood you need a higher tpi saw and teeth ground for hardwoods (slightly shallower angle on teeth). You can stil cut hardwood with a sotwood saw but you need to be gentle and careful, hardly applying any pressure at all.

Additionally dozuki saws are very delicate and fine, they are meant to be used with little to no pressure when cutting ans you need to prioritize straightness. If you don't you may loose a tooth. After that they will leave an excellent and flat surface.

[NPC__U]

I like going to estate and yard sales to find old hand tools which I restore. You learn a lot about hand tools restoring them and usually the quality is unmatched. I have bought some rusty dull hulks that I've turned into gems.

[haljohnston]

Excellent presentation on what tools not to buy.
I’m only 70 years old and started woodworking at age 4 so I don’t quite have as many years of experience as you, but I totally agree with everything you said.

[vincenthuying]

Dear Rob, absolutely agree on the saw handle point. Any favorite saw with a true handle grip will improve the directional action and increase muscle memory. Those round handled saws are of better use in a jig. For Japanese saws it’s different, because of the pull action. Hardwoods indeed are less accurately cut with traditional Japanese saws. Oyakata makes a garden style saw with a slightly thicker blade. That saw is more suitable for hardwood. Although I must add there that to allocate saw blades for hardwoods is also helpful. Humbly think it also depends on the level of skill, muscle memory and whether the cut is with or against the grain of the wood. Learning to saw straight is imperative, for folks that push too much, the Japanese saw can be a learning experience, especially for finding the balance between applied action and letting the tool do the work. Great vid, am not a prolific user of planes, definitely will look into your shooting board plane jig vid. Cheerio

[jeffjiegao]

With regard to the gent's saw, the "correct" and effective grip is to move your hand forward, so that your thumb and index finger are pinching the blade. This way, you will feel the angle of the saw the same way as a dovetail saw.

[RyanWattersRyanWatters]

I have a Veritas low angle jack that I was at first trepidatious about, but I’m getting incredibly smooth cuts on everything from highly figured walnut to jatoba and even ipe (crazy I know, but I like the look on a small box). I have to agree though that it’s all about sharpness at the end of the day.

Thanks for all you’ve taught me over the years, Coach Cosman. Cheers!

[-IE_it_yourself]

tell you camera man to hold the camera steady when they are sipping their beer.

[JS_Precision]

I have become a big fan of Japanese pull saws. I find it easy to make a straight cut with the pulling motion. It offers more control than pushing I feel. Great tips in the video anyway. I also prefer a hefty planer, it gives a smoother movement.

[dougscott]

You do a great job explaining about the tools, I'm a 38 year veteran of building and repairing furniture, where we're you when I started buying tool's. Had to look up how to hand cut dovetails
a year ago, Thank you for your teaching, restoring a 1870's office desk. USA, Michigan

[colinosborne]

I'm in the UK. My biggest waste of money was a Surform plane, this thing is like a mega open file. The only thing I've ever used it for in 50 years is rounding off fence posts.I agree with you about the 41/2" plane, I use itall the time, its always on my bench, Ive just had to buy a new blade but (even purchased from Axminster Tools) that the steel is as good as the old one. Other problem on my large bench plane, is that the cast iron has aged so that the bottom has raised areas where-ever the casting is thicker. I could spend hours scrapping to blue on a plate glass, but haven't the patience, so I'm looking out for a firm with a surface grinder to true it all up. I hads an old 7 where the surface grinder had to take off 15 thou to get it flat and the same on the sides to get it back straight and flat.
Ive never got on with those pull saws. My favourite was made by Sorby and that too was my grandfathers.
Its nice having old tools that were my Grandfather's that are 150 years old, but their maintenance needs some effort.

During the lock-downs I couldn't buy new throw-aways when they got blunt. A diamond three square file worked a treat, bu you cant reset them.

[jeremyfugarino]

I’m a big fan of my LN #62. It’s basically my jack for sure. I agree with mostly everything else. And from my experience most planes, if tuned well, can smooth. When it comes to shooting I find the biggest issue I have is a dull blade. Can shoot anything almost as long as your blades are sharp and maintained. Thanks for the video Rob

[frankvucolo]

Great video. Personal preference is everything. You talk about what I call the joy factor. It is subjective and sometimes you can’t even explain why, but a tool or a process makes you happy. For example, if I commissioned you to make a shaker table with a drawer but stipulated you must use those 9 mistake tools, that table would come out as well as if you used your preferred tools. What would be missing would be the joy factor. You would cut perfect dovetails with the gent saw. You would compensate for the chisel bevels. You would dig out the dedicated shooting plane and work through the ergonomics. To me, a good gent saw is a delight to use. I don’t use a mortise chisel (don’t own one) because there is no joy in doing that task - for me. I can’t make the unseen joint better and it brings me no happiness. On the other hand, I draft and draw by hand as opposed to CAD. Slower, yes. Better, yes. And the joy factor is through the roof!

[brianbrigg]

It's nice to hear well considered opinions from people with a lot of experience. Learning from other people's mistakes is a lot cheaper than learning from your own.

Thanks for the video.

[Sebastopolmark]

WHO DO YOU THINK YOU ARE??? Someone who has been working with fine crafted wood for many years?
Someone who specializes in hand tools? Someone who is a master craftsman and teacher?
All of this is WORDS OF WISDOM by an experienced woodworker. I will take Rob's advise every time and ALWAYS learn from his experience. Thanks Rob and keep'em coming! !! !!!

[simon-xnwz]

No.3 plane being light keeps the weight considerably down in small tool box for site use !

[GrandmawsWorkshop]

I really never thought about the saw handle but now understand why it is important thank you for the explanation

[daleties]

Thanks for the great video. I'm an old guy who's new at hand tool woodworking. I inherited a few tools when my father in law died, one of which was a Stanley #6. You're so right about the weight an stability you get from a plane of that size. Considering that I've learned most of the techniques I use from you, I'd probably have bought a 5-1/2 if I hadn't already had the 6 but I think the difference between them is inconsequential. I also got a couple of block planes in the acquisition, one being a 60-1/2 and that's the one I reach for pretty much every time. Funny, I didn't even realize how much more comfortable it is until you mentioned it. Finally, you're so right about the sharpness being the most important part as it pertains to the amount of work it takes to use it. A few videos back you quipped that there are guys who put off sharpening until it's to the point where they gotta get another guy to help push it and that cracked me up. But...I also took it to heart and when I notice I'm working up more of a sweat or when I want a really special finish on the wood a touch-up on the stones is definitely in order.