HOW MUCH abrasive filaments damage your nozzle!

In this video we'll investigate how 3D printers nozzles wear and how print-quality is affected by that.

I've used brass nozzles with Glow in the Dark and Carbon Fiber filament to find out how and where they wear and what effect that has on print quality. I've also milled open a couple of nozzles to see how they look from the inside.

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[CNCKitchen]

Feel free to share and discuss the video on you Social Media plattform of choice!

[RomanoPRODUCTION]

thank you CNC Kitchen for still producing 3d printing videos that are accurate. The others have given up. Watch you soon

[girass]

Insane production quality, better than ever - so much time and effort and it really shows!

[SanjayMortimer]

Freaking brilliant video! Very impressed by the quality of production and the solid engineering content.

The undulating helical pattern is a likely result of a worn or chipped drill bit and pushing the feedrates on the lathe too hard. Also if you don't have your drill running dead centre it will walk and cause run-out. Glad to see ours were straight and shiny as they should be, but agree that it's not really a contributor to stringing.

You're dead right that the most important part of the nozzle is the orifice to tip flat transition. We've put a lot of time into ensuring that corner is 'just so'. The internal cone angle is also a surprisingly large contributor to the ooze and clean sharp extrusion, it gets you the more laminar flow you postulate and lowers pressure needs. Combine those two and you get the rather dramatic difference you saw in stringing.

I suspect but cannot prove that the excessive chamfer on the clone and worn nozzles also serves as a place where material will cling to and accumulate. This little annular 'pool' of very liquid material may serve as a source of material that will be entrained into a string. Retraction is going to be completely ineffective at controlling any buildup on this part of the nozzle.

[Jams]

@CNC Kitchen, that's my blownout nozzle at 10:34! I got that after printing approximately 1 spool of inland glow in the dark PLA. Thank you for showcasing it in this video, it was a hard lesson learned for a new 3d printing user.

[THX..]

The spiral pattern is achieved by plunging a dull bit into the brass with a lot of force. They make a tool to cut out the inside profile then use it until it breaks. Probably the first 1, 000 nozzle's bore is totally straight, by nozzle 2, 000 though you have the spiral pattern and somewhere after that the bit breaks and they make a new one.

[lukasdon]

The cross-section of the genuine E3D nozzle really sold me on their products. Such amazing quality assurance; and it really shows why it's smart to dole out the little extra cash for it.

[BelowAboveAverage]

This guy... This guy right here is one of the absolute best things about YouTube.

[fhuber]

The wobbly pattern of the passage through the cheap nozzle is from a warped drill bit.

They used a high rotation speed (probably with inadequate cooling fluid) and overheated the bit several times and they were using a high rate f driving the bit into the brass.

Its an effect I got when learning to use a home drill press.

[MorRobots]

That spiral is from the drilling procedure at the factory. The tool is flexing as it's plunging in.

[wargdrones]

Stefan, deine Videos sind einfach oberklasse. Qualitativ hochwertig. Informativ. Gute Geschwindigkeit. Nie langweilig. Helfen mir jede Woche neu!

[ryjacrafts]

in depth tests like this, saves us a lot of time and money before deciding. thanks so much.

[Daniel_Wolf]

Hi pal!. I just bought my first printer and I'm soaking up information with a sponge (even though I could be your grandpa because of my age... I never tire of learning!), this report opened my eyes to many doubts I had and I think a spectacular job on your part, very serious and dedicated. This is the first video of yours I've seen and I've subscribed to the channel to see the rest. A pleasure to learn from people who really care about finding the important point of the problems. My congratulations, today, December 31, 2022, I send you a big greeting from the South of Argentina and I wish you a good year!

[_Springroll]

This guy has better English than most Americans and better production quality than a lot of big YouTubers. Great job!

[dragonstyneenterprises]

I concur with your findings, it was interesting to see the 60 degree chamfer on the inside of the e3d nozzle verses the 90 of the in expensive nozzle. Custom tooling verses standard drill bits, that is significant.

[elfpimp]

I asked 3dpn a million times to make a video about this one topic . You really did a VERY good job putting as much thought into the tech as well as the science.

[mrclown]

The chamfer on brand new (cheap) nozzles effectively increasing their diameter and hurting print quality is a very interesting discovery. Thanks Stefan, glad we have people like you in the community 👍

[derekdubs]

The effort put into these videos is unbelievable

[fredgenius]

Useful info, thanks.
I have a small lathe, tried making my own nozzles, they worked ok, but no better than the bought nozzles. The hand-made nozzles took a lot of time to make, and the materials are expensive.

A good compromise is to buy 0.2 or 0.3mm nozzles, and drill them out to the required size. I find 0.35mm is a good size for the kind of printing I mostly do. Carbide PCB drills are cheap, but it's easy to break them. I start by facing off a piece of scrap stock, drill and tap M6, and screw a nozzle on. I do this for each batch of nozzles to maintain concentricity. The drilling part is easy, as long as your tailstock is aligned correctly.

[ethanbunch]

I found the section on glow in the dark filament really interesting! I had been printing a very large gift for my fiance and the nickel plated nozzle that I had been using started to show signs of damage. The filament would shoot off to the back and left no matter what filament I used. Just bought myself some steel nozzles because of it! Thank you for the great videos and keep it up!