MY MCW PAINT STORY ON A 62 THUNDERBIRD

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FIGURING OUT THE PAINT MIX ON MY FIRST TIME SPRAYING MCW PAINT
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Sounds like all it needs is a good rubbing out on the hazed parts with NOVIS 2...

Jan-ur
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I use MCW enamels all the time. I mix all of mine 50/50 all the time. Stick with your 8 to 1 if your set on using hardener, but I stopped using it just because mcw’s enamels dry so fast, plus I put mine in the dehydrator for 8 hours. But I use only mr. Color leveling thinner in all my enamels. I use either my Iwata neo (.035) or my Badger patriot (.050). I use only mr. Surfacer for everything as well. I start with 2 lite coats, then usually 2 wet coats after that. Good luck with that, great looking car.👍

bigchef
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I thin the MCW enamel with MTL 2+ parts thinner 1 part paint and shoot through a .3 @ 20 psi.
Their enamel dries rock-hard without a hardener
Sand the with 6k through 10k.

kurtbergman
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You will get it all worked out. Thanks for sharing.

michaelcooke
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Hey Kreg, Chris going 2 get it on a future build myself. That "hazing" over the door panel I've experienced it myself. My understanding is that is a reaction when the styrene goes from a heating 2 a cooling process, it's like a ghosting effect. That has happened 2 me quite a few times in the past. I know U don't prime bodies when applying enamels I was recommended to apply several super light coats of primer on the body & lightly wet sand it with a 3000 grit sanding sponge to smooth any texture out. Examine the body & make sure none of those lines appear & U should be good. What I do now is before I shoot anything on a body, I closely examine the body 4 those fine ghost lines up into the light as if U don't see those lines before U shoot anything, U may not need 2 prime the body & U can shoot enamels without primer as U normally this helps

c.d.scalemodels
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I mix 1 to 1 with lacquer thinner and no hardener. I go to the dehydrator for 8 to 10 hours at 104 degrees. Works like a champ. I do the same with the enamel clear.

mcmodelworks
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I had a similar problem on a Cadillac eldorado hood that I had to that I had to repaint recently and I used MCW paints. It sprayed on very well. The main part of the hood the upper part came out beautiful nice and shiny but the front part not too bad but just a little bit doll-like inside of your T-Bird and I can't understand why that is. But it's good enough it looks great mainly because I sprayed it with some Dupli-Color clear high gloss clear.

normrussell
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I’ve been doing about a 50/50, or 1 to 1 mix with the enamel and thinner. I haven’t tried the hardener with the color, but I use the same formula with the clear, but I only add a few drops of hardener. I don’t have a dehydrator, but I put my parts on my boiler, in my basement. It’s a pretty efficient heater, so it’s barely above room temperature any time of year. But using that formula, , , I’ve been successful, so far, with the MCW paints.

stevenbongiorno
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Using the hardener I recommend priming if you’re not. The hardener is nothing no than automotive 2K clear hardener and probably to hot for bare plastic. I also say you maybe over reducing it. .5-1 is what’s recommended. You could also use cheap lacquer thinner with the hardener. I’ve spoken with someone that uses it extensively and he uses lacquer thinner and the hardener.

FuelsModels
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same thing happened to me with their ready to spray lacquers. They seem like they never cover enough. I used 2 whole bottles on 1 body/hood and is still looks like it didnt cover..i can see the primer on some areas...and I know I covered everything...

dewapd
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Humidity and high or low temperature can cause issues with painting too. I would prime the body before paint also to stop the thinners bleeding into the plastic... the hazing

oldieman
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Weight it out if you wanna know the exact ratios

BigPoppa
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Haven’t tried their enamel paint yet but I’ve ordered the lacquer paints. I’m still kind of new to airbrush and I’ll be using the lacquer soon. From the tests I’ve done they spray nice.

onixfieroandscalemodelworks
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I wish I could help you brother, but as of right now I’m still a rattle can guy 🤣. Good luck though!!!

blueoxmodelshop
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You reduce it enough to spray it. There are people using airbrush's .2 .3. .4 and 14 to 30 psi depending their particular setups.
So there is no ratio, only what works for you and what works for you wont work for me.
It's all an

BennyCFD
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Seams to me;;;;. Your using too much reducer, , , , and coming back into your paint it's drying too fast, , build your coats evenly, it's leveling out drying too fast, remember the hotter the thinner, or reducer the faster the dry, what you have is flash marks, lm a retired nasa painter, . Thanks for reading l hope this helps ( Rockabilly scale kustoms) teddy

teddyburns
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