Can 15 Amp Outlets Be Used On A 20 Amp Circuit Breaker

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We will cover a few different items associated with this topic. First we will discuss code, then move on to safety/fire hazard, and finish up on what appliances actually need more than 15 Amps. I will also cover my recommendation for increasing your knowledge of the national electrical code as a DIYer and what type of outlet you should be using on all your future electrical projects.

My Favorite 15 AMP Commercial Grade Outlet

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DISCLAIMER: This video and description contain affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links, I’ll receive a small commission.
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the simple answer is that a 15 amp device with the proper plug type installed can't draw enough amps to overload the circuit. Remember the breaker is there to protect the wiring within the building not the device plugged into the outlet.

barrysiler
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I agree with what you said. I only use commercial grade receptacles, mostly for the backwiring capability, but they also tend to have a larger plug cycle life.

andrewt
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to make things perfectly clear, receptalces have two ratings: they have a device rating and they have a feed-through rating. nearly all receptacles with a 15 amp device rating have a 20 amp feed through rating. the ones that don't are the ones that don't have screw terminals. those shouldn't be used on a 20 amp circuit, and more conscientious electricians believe they shouldn't be used at all.

kenbrown
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At 1:54 a few lines in the book above your finger it says "A duplex receptacle (with a space for two plugs) counts as two receptacles". This is an important detail for clarity that some viewers may not realize.

surferdude
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I love your outlet videos. They helped me pick out the best (at least at the time) USB-C outlets that I still use in my living room and bedroom for my devices.

infinty
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Perfect timing. Its has been hard finding a video that references this info about outlets. Thanks bro!!

Dizzy
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When looking at the 15 vs 20 amp internals at 5:27 you can see that the hot side on the 20 amp is the same as both the hot and neutral on the 15 amp. The part that was removed from the previous model 15 amp would really only come into play when the connection is a horizonal prong. Since this isn't possible with a 15 amp receptacle, the part was probably only there so that both could be manufactured on the same line.

rich
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Additional information: As stated, you can put 15A outlets on a 20A circuit provided there's more than one outlet on that circuit. The code also specifically states that the double outlets, such as the ones he was taking apart, count as 2, so they count as more than one outlet. The outlets that count as only 1 outlet are the round ones with only a single set of holes in them and no other outlets on the circuit. This is usually only done on a dedicated outlet for a high amperage device, such as a window air conditioner or a large air compressor.

wmcomprev
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Perfect timing! A house we’re looking to buy has this exact scenario. Thanks for the info!

TheOmniscientCow
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🇨🇦 Electrician weighing in: I’ve always used the commercial spec grade outlets in kitchen areas, same with back when we used to do split receptacles. Lower resistance connection points which results in less heat especially for the heavy counter top loads running at or near 1500W. Well worth the extra $ in terms of user experience, safety and device longevity.

burningdust
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Back when I was a kid, My Grandma had Time Life Books for the basics of different trades. I read the electrical cover to cover, multiple times. Then I would ride my bike to the library and get all I could find about electrical.

michaeljavert
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If I run 12/2, I use 20A outlets. That way, I have the extra capability if needed, and it's easy to identify the circuit capacity. I can't imagine why anyone wouldn't just go with the full boat if it's available.

dougb
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I love your videos. I am now a new subscriber. I just purchased an older home that needs several upgrades. I ran across you videos that are easy to follow and very understandable. Thanks. I will hit the notified bell to see more of your videos. Again, Thanks.

djhitz
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Great teacher! Thanks for producing this valuable information!

WhatzTyme
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One thing you failed to mention is that all of the commercial grade outlets you featured have a bonding jumper that holds the bottom screw in place. This is very handy if you use or encounter metal boxes because you can eliminate the need for a separate ground wire to bond the outlet with the box.  

Both screws on the cheap outlets are held in place with a piece of cardboard and should only be used on plastic boxes where it doesn't matter.

Roy-ijwq
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I’ve found that 15 amp GFCI outlets are sensitive at the upper limit. The electrical contractor installed all 15 amp outlets with GFCI protection at an industrial facility that used pumps and power tools. I finally had to draw a picture of a 20 amp outlet, so they could install the correct outlets for my people could use power tools to do their job.

joeyscara
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Thanks for the great videos! Very informative! I'm no professional by any means. However I have always done all home and appliance repairs myself. Videos like yours have been very helpful. I appreciate the time you take to produce these videos! Thanks again!

markevans
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Very interesting. Now I can tell the difference between a 20A receptacle and a 15A. Thanks.

mauisam
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Manufactured homes that I've seen use 14 gauge wire for most of the wireing. To make things more interesting they daisy chain plug to plug with back stab 15 amp plugs.
After your video I looked at one of my plugs and it had gotten hit enough that it melted the plastic in the back and the wires got hot enough that I had to cut off more than an inch just so I could strip the wire!
I'm replacing ALL my plugs in the house. Have found 2 more not plugs

davereynolds
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Good info, and you reminded me that I need to buy an updated Black & Decker guide.

DavidBugea