Should I Use A 15 Or 20 Amp Receptacle On A 20 Amp Crt

We talk about weather or not should i use a 15 or 20 amp receptacle on a 20 amp crt. The upsides to using a 20 amp on a heavy load and the difference between the two.

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[XenochiosChocolates-znyx]

perfect explanation thank u very much now if i get to built the home i want i know what kind of box to used and switch nothing less that 20 amp thank u again

[carlodonnell]

yes but the 20amp receptacle is only pulling the 20A if a 20A device is plugged into it....if the table saw has a 15A plug, how is using the 20A receps any better for the table saw? isn't the gauge/resistance of the metal in the recept. responsible for the amperage, just like it does in the wire-gauge?

[z]

Actually rather misleading. Confusing the distinct aspects of four elements in a typical use situation only mystifies homeowners, though depending, it may upsell more costly equipment and man-hours of labor. Codes are designed around maximal safety, and consistent application of equipment and practices. Starting at the breaker panel, most regular home circuits will either be protected by a 15A or 20A single breaker. Most home lighting circuits used to be on 15A/14 ga. wiring, even when many rooms were fed off a few circuits, assuming only a few rooms would have lights on at the same time - not always true. Kitchen areas, specifically counters, require two separate 20A Circuits, feeding receptacles ('outlets') spaced so cords on small appliances can reach without being long enough to hang over the edge and snagged, a former safety hazard especially for heavy and high temp units. The vast majority of such appliances, even large Crockpots, radiant ovens, dry fryers, come with cords and plugs with the familiar two blades - which are certified by UL, a different group that focuses on the things that plug in, not what happens before. BUT, if the blades plug in, to ordinary outlets, they are rated to NEVER draw over 15A. Still, the special issue with kitchen counters, is that a lot of devices are often in use at once; so, the CIRCUIT must be 20A, and the "15A" receptacles must handle 20A across each without overheating. Rarely will you see one small appliance needing 20A - but if you do, it will have one horizontal blade, which only fits an actual 20A receptacle - the place the UL and NEC missions meet.
Mixing larger wire and even outlets outside the panel could lead to confusion, and attempted misuse, but an overloaded breaker will trip, if working properly, before the wires or receptacle overheat; whereas a 20A breaker will not, if 14 ga. wire is overloaded.
If one is concerned, a typical counter area could use 20A GFCI receptacles with the 20A slot to protect the regular 15A outlets, but don't waste money on 20A outlets that will never be used that way.
Arc fault breakers are another factor, designed to detect shorts in wiring and trip before enough heat can start a fire. Early ones were the bane of many electricians, but likely thousands of house fires were averted with their use - if you have an "old school" electrician who sneers at them, and other modern upgrades, find another electrician.

[surferdude]

This guy is Canadian and the CEC doesn't allow 15 amp receptacles on 20 amp circuits. I'm assuming that they don't want people to use residential grade 15 amp receptacles as shown here, otherwise it doesn't make sense. BTW, 80% of 15 amps is 12 amps or 1440 watts. IMO, you are better off with a 15 amp commercial spec grade receptacle because only a 15 amp plug can be used and the appliance, if in good condition, would only need 1800 watts maximum. 15 amp duplex receptacles are rated for 20 amp pass through (total of downstream and plugged in loads). An appliance with a 20 amp plug could, in theory, require 2400 watts, potentially tripping breakers when used on a shared circuit, assuming in these examples that the appliance manufacturer ignores the 80% rule. For this reason, 20 amp appliances with a 20 amp plug are required to be on an individual branch circuit and the receptacle would be a single 20 amp, not a duplex.