How to Set a Fence Post in Concrete

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SPECIAL NOTE - New Info : If you want to see a faster way to accomplish How to Set a Fence Post in Concrete, or in other words to get started , real quick, check out the video we made : I think you'll find it REAL helpful : PROMISE !

Greenworks 2000 PSI 1.2 GPM Pressure Washer (Open Frame GPW2003) GPW2003

#fencebuild #postinconcete #quikrete
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Knowing how to install a fence post is pivotal to a strong fence. How to set a fence post in concrete installation is not complicated. But it does require some heavy lifting. In this video we installed a treated wood fence post. This DIY fence post installation saves an enormous amount of money compared to hiring the job out.
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First we had to dig the fence post holes. To do that we used a one-man post hole auger.
We were setting fence posts in concrete. This is a typical way to install a fence but not the only way. The fence post cement we used was Quikrete post cement. It sets up in 20-40 minutes and is strong enough for fence installation after curing for 4 hours.
To begin, we strung a line from one corner fence post or stake to another corner fence post or stake. That provided a straight measuring line with which to align all the middle fence posts. Our fence post spacing was typically 8 feet from post to post. The fence post hole depth was 30 inches of more with 4-6 inches of gravel at the bottom of the holes.
How much concrete per fence post varied from hole to hole. It averaged 1-2 50 pound bags.
To measure how much concrete for a post hole, you need use the width and the depth of the hole less the volume of the actual post. Use the formula for the volume of a cylinder.
That is about it! You should have a good idea how to put in a fence post. So go do it!
See our recommendations for tools and supplies for DIY success!

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Also, if you are in the market for any tools, check out our Amazon store front or the links below.
Visit our amazon store front for our recommendations for tools and supplies for DIY success!
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Here is a list of some other tools we often use :
RENOVATION TOOLS - TIME & EFFORT SAVERS
DEWALT 20V MAX* Cordless Impact Driver Kit, Brushless, 1/4-inch (DCF787C2)

DEWALT Line Laser, Self-Leveling, Cross Line, Red Beam (DW088K)

DEWALT 20V MAX* XR Oscillating Tool Kit, 3-Speed (DCS356C1)

DEWALT Oscillating Tool Blade, Titanium, Flush Cut (DWA4213)

IRWIN Level, I-Beam, 72-Inch (1801096) , Blue

POWER TOOLS: NICE!
DEWALT Miter Saw, Single Bevel, Compound, 10-Inch, 15-Amp (DWS713)

DEWALT 12-Inch Miter Saw, 15-Amp, Single Bevel, Compound (DWS715)

DEWALT Table Saw for Jobsite, Compact, 8-1/4-Inch (DWE7485)

TOOL BOX - MUST HAVES:
Amazon Basics Soft Grip Retractable Utility Knife with 3 Blades

The Original Duck Tape Brand 394475 Duct Tape, 1-Pack 1.88 Inch x 60 Yard Silver
Or
Gorilla All Weather Outdoor Waterproof Duct Tape, UV and Temperature Resistant, 1.88" x 25 yd,
Black, (Pack of 1)

KAIWEETS Digital Multimeter TRMS 6000 Counts Voltmeter Auto-Ranging Fast Accurately
Measures Voltage Current Amp Resistance Diodes Continuity Duty-Cycle Capacitance
Temperature for Automotive

NEXT LEVEL TOOL we wont do without!
DEWALT Line Laser, Self-Leveling, Cross Line, Red Beam (DW088K)


MECHANIC MUST HAVES :
DEWALT Mechanics Tools Kit and Socket Set, 142-Piece, 1/4 & 3/8" Drive, MM/SAE
(DWMT73802)
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SPECIAL NOTE - (New Info) : If you want to see a fast option to dig post holes, real quick, also check out this other video we made as well : I think you'll find it REAL helpful : PROMISE !

Greenworks 2000 PSI 1.2 GPM Pressure Washer (Open Frame GPW2003) GPW2003

Housebarons
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I spent 15 minutes on the phone with a guy from Home Depot trying to figure out how to put the cement in at the bottom of my fence post, and he had no idea. THX FOR THE ANSWER!! I’m a girl putting in a fence by myself.👱🏻‍♀️

anneiconex
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This is the only YouTube video I found that taught me what I needed to know to set a post straight. I looked at 10 of those before I found this one. Thank you so much for doing a excellent YouTube video

garydayton
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We're fencing our garden and started with 4x4 treated posts set in Quikrete "Fast Setting Concrete." We found our posts weak after nearly 3 days of curing. We dug one post up and the junks of Quikrete could easily be broken with our fingers. We redid the work with posts simply set 3 to 4 foot deep with no Quikrete and now the posts are rock solid strong.

dalehammond
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The comments here were extremely helpful. Saved this to watch later so I can come back and refer to things.

rcaspilot
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Well my fence fell down in the last storm so, I will be digging a few post holes and setting a few of these. I am going to put an asphalt emulsion ($15 a gallon) on the end of the post that goes into the ground. I will add about 6 inches of large gravel to the bottom then the post. I am thinking about staining or putting a water seal on the part from the emulsion upward. Another idea was to add a cap to the top of the post. When it rains this cap would help keep rain from seeping in the top. Comments welcome. I need all the help that I can get.

pipi
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Wider hole (3 times post width) and tamp the dry concrete after each bag. For best results layer with 1/2 bag then tamp, add 1/2 water and repeat til 3 to 6 inches from ground level.

stardave
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Hi Baron. Seems better to mix with water in a basin first and shovel in the concrete. My fence was whipped together by a contractor for KB homes and some of the posts that failed just had powder inside. It wasn't mixed together. How did your fence hold up?

chrisdascalos
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For water just use a pressure washer. I did that yesterday. Worked great.

aaroncarr-mackay
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so are you suppose to set the corner posts first then string line and follow the line to do the posts in the middle? does my question make sense?

danielmunoz
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Myself, I prefer bracing the post, so I don't have to be checking and adjusting every time I pour concrete or dirt down the hole. It only take a few minutes and ensure that the post stay plum while the concrete cures.

Crooked_Clown
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I used a tube form (8" diameter) and about 2' depth. However when I pour the water, it didnt get absorbed. I didnt pour too much water either. Im just concerned that if it doesnt percolate down, then the bottom concrete will not solidfy

bawwf
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If I'm replacing posts, should I use the same holes? I see you set your posts to various heights...are they supposed to be the same?

edzanjero
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If I may exercise my Obsessive Compulsive Disorder here re posts being "Level": "Level" refers to something that is perfectly flat or horizontal. A perfectly upright post is "Plumb"

xxomegaman
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When I put posts in I like them to vertical no good having them level, I fit diagonal supports to hold the posts while adding the mix.

johnbower
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Thanx for sharing. Just the information I needed.

browill
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Thank you Sir. Well done. Subscribing now.

mrockefellermr
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is that all the water you pure that was not much ? thx

johnal
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You mentioned to keep concrete around the posts BELOW the ground level - then build up with 'dirt' and create a 'slope' away from the posts to prevent water from going down into the post area. But I didn't see your actual finished area you described. Based on your how-to explanation, once rain hits, the 'dirt' mound around the posts would seem to just level out around the post and water would just soak down to the level of concrete and around the exposed 3-4" of post. Why not put concrete slightly ABOVE the ground level - then trowel out to create the proper descending grade so rain runs AWAY from the posts. OR - did I misunderstand how you finish the top area of the post hole? Thanks in advance for a reply.

ricktorreano
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They told me that I need to put bituthene on the posts before I install them with cement is this true because a lot of people that just put the cement without waterproofing the posts

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