How to test an ignition switch

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Troubleshooting/testing an ignition switch.

If you need more detail on using a multimeter to test for continuity, I made one here:
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Very concise, easy to understand, to the point. Thank you so much!!! Helped me fix some wiring on my Huster...you should be an educator!!

perryjones
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Good lord 2:30 is when he finally explains what you’re looking for🤦‍♂️

dielawn
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On a Mercury 6 wire ignition switch, the black w/yellow has 3 leads. 4 wire splice.1 from mag, 1 from Kill switch, 1 to Tach, 1 to switch. Also the purple has a 3 wire splice. 1 from low oil buzzer( warning buzzer) .1 from switch.1 from accessories. The factory switch on comes with 2 purple and 2 ground jumpers. So others must be added. I used waterproof splice shrink tubes.

JimNobles-gvky
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*Built well, **Bestfor.Garden** also recommend plugged right into my rider 4500 series. Was short the rubber cap key and was was sent right out in the mail. Just ordered another ignition switch for my 6500 rider.*

elainegergely
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This would be similar for a vehicle starter switch right? The posts/terminals are different in mine, they're sodered, but still very similar. I got continuity in everything except the starter (ST) terminal. Hopefully this is my issue, thanks for this video.

FranciscoJavierOutdoors
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Thanks for the education Sir. Now I know

victoryfirst
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I’ve always just took the black contact and put it against the body of the ignition switch, then take your red contact and touch each prong individually, there should be no continuity in any of them except for the ground, If there is the switch is bad.

wild
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WARNING NOT KNOWN to many, Even though a replacement switch MAY FIT THE FACTORY PLUG the switch may actually BURN UP your wiring when activated OR the mower won't start OR you blow something else. NOTE: The Labels ON the PRONGS of your ORIGINAL FACTORY switch MUST MATCH the labels on the replacement switch, I personally screwed up a wiring harness thinking I could just switch out a key switch BECAUSE IT WOULD FIT the factory plug

REVNUMANEWBERN
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Mine grounds the engine when the switch touches metal. It is a brand new switch. It’s like it is defected from the factory. If I pull the switch away from the metal control box, it works fine. Maybe the inside of the metal casing isn’t insulated right? It’s been aggravating because I spent a long time diagnosing other things thinking that there is no way it was a new switches issue. I even bought it straight from scag thinking I was doing the right thing.

michaelsingleton
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I didn't know you can do this thank you for sharing this knowledge is very valuable everyone should do this

Butterflyknifes
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ALL 5 prong switches are NOT stamped the same per prong, make sure you get a switch that the prongs are the same identification as your original, MANY THINK as long as the replacement switch will FIT THE PLUG then it is ok, NOPE, you may fry your wiring harness. Been there done that !

REVNUMANEWBERN
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Would have been nice to see your multimeter to see what you were doing and what position you were using

grahampreece
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We have have a problem with our switch at the second position the starter wants to spin does this sound like a faulty switch to you

jrac
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I tested mine but mine has a sixth prong. It's off of a John Deere 116. I didnt get any continuity on any of them.lol guess I'll just buy another one.

larrabeejl
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Are the terminal numbers universal, IE just place wire on #1 to terminal #1 on new switch and so on .

randolphsnyder
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My meter doesn’t have the buzzer can you make a video showing what settings you have on the meter?

cavaleiro
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Which color wire connects to which pin? I have red, blue, green, brown and white

wendyrush
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Dose the ground terminal on the Ignition switch need to be grounded to something and if so where to

stevecupit
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What color of wire each of M, ACC, IG?

alfiecaponga
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I was told S stands for solenoid not starter ?

wild