Techniques for Machining Straight Deep Holes -- SHOP GEM --

This video shares some solid techniques that will allow you to drill straighter deeper holes on the lathe and do it with less effort. I'll introduce you to what a diamond pin is, and show you why it works. This one is long, but well worth a look. Check This One Out !!

[oneshot]

please don't teach this for a living ugh.

[petera]

Hello Joe,
I have run my own shop for 20 plus years. I'm writing to tell you how much I admire the care you put into your videos, and the clarity with which you present your ideas and concepts. There are many people out there who will benefit from your efforts. Keep it up! Thanks.

[genecarden]

Joe I’m one of those guys that will forget everything you tell me unless I know “why”. Your explanations and theory at the “board” are very helpful to me..

[billythebake]

Hey Joe, wanna' thank ya' for taking the time to post this up.

For the six guys who give this video a 'thumbs down'... I'm guessing one or two may have been by accident; the rest were probably simply to keep machining videos from showing up in their YouTube feed

Because, the value of the content here is top notch.

When you figure that shop time - any shop with trained personnel and decent equipment, anywhere in the US in 2020 - is damn hard to come by at $100/ hr, and that's based on the average guy in the average shop... not the highly experienced guy in the shop who can do the troubleshooting and tricky stuff...

I've sat through a lot of lessons in the years that put a hell of a lot less value into a whole lot more time

[dand]

Hi Joe, again a great lesson. And allow me this comment just because you have mentioned that you don't want this video to be boring: actually, beyond the importance of seeing the real details, I very much appreciate to see that some things simply take their time and that therefore I don't need to feel like I'm veeery sloooow when doing similar stuff. In fact, most of the time youtube folks show this kind of "boring" footage in quick motion only and basically reduce everything to a nice, shiny chipmaking show. Instead, not only you give us an idea on how long such a job can / must take (even when done by a seasoned Pro) but you also make very good use of the "boring" parts and give us extremely precious "bonus" advice while doing so.
Thanks again for this and ... congrats for the 100K!

Dan

[brianwarburton]

That was one of the most useful engineering videos I have see. Thanks for taking the time to do this. A lot of people are benefiting from your efforts.

[egx]

@joe Pie You are actually a very good teacher. You make things clear and concise and easy to understand. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.

[robconcep]

You are an excellent teacher. This lesson is among your best. Thank you for taking the time to share it with us.

[johnchamberlain]

Joe, this had me glued to the chair. 45 minutes went by like it was 10 or less. I was just recently (like last night) wondering about "rifle drills" and such to get a good straight hole. Thanks!!

[testdevice]

Right on Joe as always! Having worked in the automotive industry for many years, drills got the metal out, boring bars positioned the hole, and reamers gave you diameter and finish. Many people always wanted to skip a pass or two, with little success. When holes had to be deep, straight, and with a finish, gun drills were used, like on automatic transmission valve bodies. Gundrill geometry is very unique and contains parts of the three tools above, in one tool, but is not for the average machine shop. Gundrills require a hardened drill bushing to start the hole, high pressure coolant (~1000psi) to move the foil-like (<.001") chip up the straight flute, and carbide shoes to pilot and keep the single point tool located. Your video is perfect and addresses all the same processes for a universal machine shop.

[randymiller]

Good content. I worked PT as a Tool & Die machinist (apprentice) while studying engineering. Appreciative of the patience & knowledge my mentors shared with me. With 40 years of Mfg / Construction experience behind me, it's great to see other pass-along great detailed work instructions such as this YouTube video. Well done sir !!

[brucematthews]

This isn't just solid gold. This is solid platinum knowledge. For such a simple thing you've provided us with so many hints and things to think about. A total winner of a video. Thanks so much for sharing your years of experience both in this and all your other videos. It really helps us hobbyists.

[mackellyman]

So many subtle techniques were shared. Thanks for taking the time to share.

[llewellynquay]

When I was in school I worked weekends and summers for a Master Tool & Die maker (friend of my father), and this was in the Mid-Late '70's. SO Much of what you cover reminds of "knowledge" I'd forgotten! Thanks for putting in the time and effort to share all the things that aren't in "The Machiney's Handbook" or anywhere else! I put in a good amount of hours on a Bridgeport, a Hardinge, and a big gap bed Graziano. Back then CNC was in it's infancy, so I never learned any basic programming, But I still get people who found out from 'This or That guy" that I have a tooled shop in my Garage--(although I've never "worked" as a machinist)...And it's nice to be able to find not only things I've forgotten, but SO much more!
Very Generous of you to share--Huge Thanks!

[Dagonius.]

I really like people, who know what they're doing. I'm a precision mechanic myself. Best job in the world. Gives me smiles every day!

Watching good machining videos never gets boring. Joe I would have watched you finish that hole in real time n all. Caus I get it!

Thanks!

[garthbutton]

This is the kind of experience that comes from years of dealing with daily issues and being successful.I really like the way you explain yourself😁

[marcmckenzie]

Joe, this is one of the most useful segments you’ve done yet! I ate it up. Your years of experience show in the best of ways. Godspeed.

[jcs]

Joe, I learned a lot from this video, and the demo on how to bump the carriage was worth the price of admission, thank you!

[micjr]

I really don't understand the square hole thing, but everything else was blowing my mind. The quick retract of the drill by using the carriage and tail stock was exceptional. Love it

[Gottenhimfella]

Thanks, Joe. Always a few gems in each clip. I already (probably as a teenager) came up with using the carriage as a depth reference, but your later tip on a great way of quickly re-establishing the drilling depth after changing to a longer drill, by delaying locking the tailstock to the bed, I do now recall (thanks to you!) I used to do when I had smaller lathes, but I need to try on the big machines I now generally run.
It's not enough to come up with these things intuitively, a real teacher will take careful note of such tricks in order to remember AND refine them, and even more importantly, to pass them on.
"Paying it forward" is what got us to the top of the food chain, and you are a master of the art! Thanks again. You really are a treasure to this community of interest, and your generosity is truly admirable.
PS:
On my biggest lathe, your reminder might just give me the impetus I need to add air injection to make the tailstock move more easily. It's not huge, as 5MT tailstocks go, and does not have a gearbox, but it's a potential twisting strain on the back if I was to do a really deep hole.
For instance, I have a 65mm diameter spade drill I made the 5MT holder and shank for which is 700mm long. Last time I used it, it took several hours to take to full depth!
(I don't have high pressure coolant, just high volume flood, and of course there is no pilot hole, so I was clearing it every few mm).
I don't have rapid on the carriage, either, otherwise it would be a no-brainer to use IT to push the tailstock back each time, once the depth started to amount to something. I would lash the tailstock to the carriage with cord, and if I did this, I could use a magnet under the front shear of the bed as an automatic moving depth indicator for stopping the forward motion of the carriage, similar to your original tip, to avoid headbutting the spade bit into the hole and risking making an indent to propagate chatter, which of course is the sworn enemy of spade drills.
I use Allied bits, and I stick with HSS for durability and because they tolerate things like no high pressure coolant and (intermittent) chatter much better than carbide, and I highly recommend them for deep holes in these larger sizes.