CNC Router Part 5 - Fixing Problems

Fixing some minor issues with the DIY CNC Router build so far.

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[MakingStuff]

Be sure to leave a comment and let me know what you think about the build so far!

[jeffbeck]

Subscribed for the killer guitar solos during welding.

[johnthompson]

this will blow the cut chips out of the bit path. GREAT JOB SO FAR

[primate]

Another great video! I'd also like to mention that I really like the music you put in your videos. It's nice to not have to hear the usual dubstep or other massively-over played genre. It also helps that I happen to love metal! 😆

[ufletch]

Great job so far. I built my CNC router years ago completely out of 3/4” MDO. Table was a large torsion box and the gantry is a rectangular box shape. I initially did a direct drive, using #25 chain and sprockets. Quickly switched out to a 2:1 belt reduction for the reasons you mention. You get much better resolution and torque without losing top end speed. I think you will be surprised by the accuracy you can achieve. You are hoping for 0.010” which should be no problem, at least as far as relative precision. I can rip through 3/4 plywood using a 1/4” endmill at 70ipm, yet have also drilled PC boards using a 1/32” endmill with great precision. I use NEMA 34 motors and Gecko 203V drivers under Linuxcnc. Interestingly enough, I have never installed limit switches on my machine. I run the gantry against the hard stops on each axis before I power up and then immediately home the axes. Then drive back to home before I power off. Have never had a problem losing steps. Have crashed the head a few times due to operator error, but I have the ends of the chain drive secured with a couple zip ties so they will fail before doing major damage. It is very gratifying to use your new machine to make upgraded parts for itself. I switched out 2 of the axes from roller v bearings to linear rails a while ago and it was a piece of cake making the new parts.

[MiniLuv-]

Those gussets made a huge difference! I imagine attaching triangular pieces of ply at the corners would serve the same purpose and the ply will tend to absorb any high frequency vibrations.

[mkegadgets]

Got to love Fireball squares, I use them all the time.

[mattlewandowski]

I am enjoying the build. I have similar plans once the pandemic is over and I can resume house hunting (I have not got an adequate workshop here. I am presently working on design phase as a CNC router and a 3d printer are part of my plans for how to build a new workshop "properly")

[MrManta]

concerning the leg braces, use horizontal brace. mount plywood on top. this now shelf is a great place to put keyboard and set junk.

[michaelkeymont]

Funny, as soon as you started talking about the wobble issue, I knew exactly what was coming. I ran into the same thing - steel is like rubber until it’s reinforced with cross bracing. Also, add as much mass as you can. I have well over 600 lbs of concrete blocks dampening my machine, and mine is a quarter of the size of yours... I added lots of cross bracing too.

You’re going to end up with a lack of rigidity in the moving gantry no matter what, so you need to stiffen up that frame as much as possible so that it isn’t contributing at all to any flex in the works while you’re cutting. It comes down to how fast you can move through material at the end of the day, and rigidity is your friend.

[nedgligich]

Gantry supports, you cut the gantry supports in a T shape, you would get more support and stiffness on the X axis if you cut them as a right angle triangle.

[brendinemslie]

Looking good. I think you should add gussets in the Y plane as well. At least check to see if you have wobble in that direction.

[AndrewAHayes]

I would change those plywood parts for steel, you just know your going to upgrade them further down the line, might as well do it now LOL.
The build is coming on and I cant wait to see the finished job and the parts it can produce.

[nedgligich]

Aluminium cutting, movement or backlash in any of the axis will cause shuttering.
The axis rigidity aside, many overlook Z axis, if the spindle is too light it will resonate the shutter, add a s much ballast to the spindle/Z axis as you can.
Use a Molybdenum or Teflon based lubricant as a cutting fluid, more so to prevent the Aluminium from sticking to and coating the cutter.
When cutting metals it is important to bite into the material so you are cutting chips, so your feed and cutter velocity are very important, you need to adjust the cutting depth to suit the strength/power of your spindle.
you may need to reduce the cutting depth to suit the required feed.
Blow out the chips with compressed air.

[PiefacePete]

Love your thinking... looks great. Amazing how dramatic the oscillations were on the table. It may not have been so easy to spot on the finished machine; you could have spent silly amounts of time tracking it down.
I have fantasies about building a smaller, cheaper machine. Time, and Covid-19, will tell.

Stay safe, keep your distance! I have had to start watching on my TV so I can still see details from 2 metres away! ;o)

[goncalomartins]

Thank´s finished the gantry designs, + larger, but very 10 mm

[nedgligich]

I would reconsider the 3:1 reduction you made, the backlash between the rack and pinion drive and stepper driving pulse will be multiplied.
You should try driving the rack and pinion directly without reduction or consider purchasing a stepper motor with the reduction box incorporated.

[DodgyBrothersEngineering]

You've only braced the frame in one direction. Did you look at my frame like I suggested? Happy to explain why I made it the way I did.

[voyeger]

Looks so good. Alternatively you could have welded square pipes horizontally closer to ground and some in middle then put a plywood on it. This would have created much bigger storage space underneath the table.

[Z-add]

I have seen other welders put a wet cloth on their weld to cool it before it starts to bend the frame.