What Makes Adam Ondra the Best Climber in the World

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Footage Credit Via EpicTV:

Power Endurance With Adam Ondra | Adam Ondra's Training Series Ep.4

Still making nice videos about Adam, still hoping Pavel one day removes the copyright strike against my channel.

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Creative Commons — Attribution 3.0 Unported — CC BY 3.0

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Everyone knows its the long neck giving him the advantage

henrystartt
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No one else is even remotely close to this guy.

Number of 9b/5.15b or harder:

Adam: 26
Alex megos: 7
Jakob schubert: 7
...

jipe
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His biggest strength is his unparalleled ability to try hard. He pours his heart and soul into every climb as if getting to the top is the only thing that matters to him. Whether that involves understanding every move, training like a beast, or making sure his body send skin are in top shape. If anything I think one of the reasons he seems less dominant recently is because he has other things to worry/care about other than climbing (his wife and coming child). Hopefully Dad-am is just as fierce on the wall as teenage ondra was.

jaronivanisko
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People here are really using a single route in Ondras worst style, that he's tried for fewer days than the people who sent it and who excel at that exact style as an argument that he isn't the best. While at the same time completely ignoring all other styles where Ondra is arguably the best. Even if we ignore exploits in other disciplines there's no doubt, that he is still the greatest sport climber. Though the gap to Bouin/Schubert/Ghisolfi is probably smaller than a few years ago.

Landolini
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Lets not forget, Ondra also climbed Dawn wall.

ExclusiveSigma
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I think the last thing mentioned is his biggest strength. He just climbs so fast and precise that he can save a lot of power for the last section of the routes

RipperJack
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Everyone says Perfecto Mundo but also seem to forget that no one else has climbed nearly as many 5.15's as Ondra.

ragreenburg
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I love how adam says he isnt particularly strong compared to other top climbers. Yes his outstanding qualities are route reading, technique, flexibility and efficiency but watch the collab videos with magnus (admittedly weaker then many of the top climbers but still regarded as an absolute beast) Ondra totally out classes him when it comes to raw power. He makes 1-5-9 on a campus board look easy, can do one finger pullups and many other exercises that magnus could not do. He might not have the explosive power of a tamoa, but that is mainly usefull on indoor comp boulders that pretty much have nothing to do with real rock. His raw power on more static moves is on par with anyone else. Add that to his other qualities and he is without doubt still the best, even if the competition is getting closer.

EDIT: btw loved the close ups of him using his thumb like with a full crimp but on slopers. Never seen that before, gotta try that next time Im in the gym.

christophh
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Cool analysis. He obviously has great power endurance, but I think his efficiency and body positioning just makes his power endurance seem better. I think the top 3 reasons are
1. How bad he wants it
2. Mobility/body positioning
3. Efficiency/route reading

colehibbard
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Cheers Adam!! You are not only the best climber but a great person!!

andersonboy
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He's got very strong thick hands and fingers, long limbs and slim torso with very lean muscles. That's the best body combination of genetics and acquired features that a climber could wish for. This plus lots of endurance and flexibility combined with the most excellent and creative techniques make him the best. None of it however would've been possible without his passion and love for climbing. Where others see it a s a sport and a means to prove themselves, better themselves, realize themselves or become famous and accomplished, he just loves it and lives out that love.

damasek
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No doubt he is still the best. So varied; comp, offwidth, big wall, flash, redpoint, no one comes close to matching his resume.

mattssegrub
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Watching this in fall 2023 I am not sure whether Adam Ondra is currently the best climber in the world at this very moment, but he has absolutely dominated the climbing scene for more than 10 years, and his overall resume makes him the undisputed GOAT in climbing. Only disputer in this may be with Chris Sharma who took lead climbing as a sport to whole another level where we know it as it is, and is still crushing it at his age.

The sheer volumes of Ondras sends and wins speak for themselves when comparing him to other top climbers of any discipline and I would compare him to Roger Federer in tennis - with his elegance, excellence and effortless looking movement.

Sailorix
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Can’t wait to see who will become better than Ondra 🤯🤯

FissureRaiOh
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His biggest strength is his ability to recover... Nobody, and I mean nobody should train like Ondra... I think there was a period between 2014-2016 where he trained 6 days a week for 5 hours per day. Now that's... Insane. Any ordinary person would absolutely wreck their bodies with that kind of training pensum. But Ondra is just doing it. For years. I believe his secret lies in good upbringing, his parents obviously recognized his talent and helped me immensly, diet, stretching and relaxation.

His body is just a fine tuned machine and as far as I am aware he never was seriously injured except once I think... That too speaks for itself...

He has an ability to give it absolutely everything he has got when he has a go but then once it's over he can completly relax and shut down again. This is very important.

Growth only happens when you know how to be relaxed.

bastian
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He's tall and very lean. That's one of the best body types to have for climbing.

jadelee
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First sentence sums it up: it‘s not even a debate… so true, Adam IS the best FULL STOP

AR_
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Could you make a video on Seb Bouin ? No one talk about him but he's very good

gouv
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What about sheer climbing experience? As a kid always climbing, indoors outdoors always that gives such a huge difference in how his rock technique developed. At some point you just start to get it i guess

dennis
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In my opinion the "toe hook" from Jakob and Adam on that boulder problem, is very Clearly a foot lock / jam.

donkyuhbuhts