Breakdown: Adam Ondra's Insane Efficiency

Re-uploaded (again) because of a copyright strike. Adam Ondra is the best lead climber in the world by a massive margin, and he's got a real shot at winning the Tokyo 2021 Olympics. In this video, I review one of the many small things that Ondra does that help him be so dominant.

Thumbnail Photo by Vladek Zumr

[courtclimbs]

Adam is so insanely good. Loved watching this

[Shakespearespaniel]

Anyone else seeing a *lot* of Jain Kim in Adam's movement? I've missed watching her climb recently, but watching AO gives my motor neurons the same happy buzz.

[hushingsilence]

Excellent video. Never noticed this, never heard anyone else mention this.

Love your channel!

[laughingman]

I’d love to see more instructions climbing material!

[warren_ds]

First touch. Going to try that. Fantastic idea!!!

[mikethomas]

Precise analysis 👍 more of the same please

[kizzynanik]

Hi!! Love your vids, can you make one about the US climbing team and how they compare to the european/Asian climbers? E.g. kyra condie vs janja garnbret etc? 🥰

[Labouchere]

Seems strange to say that no one is close to Ondra. He is the best but Megos has demolished him in send time on some of the routes they shared like first round first minute (half the time Ondra took) and monkey wedding. Seems like he'll be faster on Perfecto Mundo as well

[dharmaslack]

Did u ever try Slackline as a way to improve precision, accuracy - and also overall balance reflexes and neuromuscular activation speed - it works pretty well if you're patient enough

[ragreenburg]

I find it hard to classify any one climber as the best in the same way I do with running. Because even if someone has the world record in the mile, you have to be tougher to have the world record in the marathon. So to have an incredible competition resume and the 5.15d is all incredibly impressive I also think people who do big wall climbs having overall tougher climbs. People like Tommy Caldwell and Kevin J who climbed the Dawn Wall have it where none of those pitches were the hardest pitches ever but I think you have to be much tougher to do that than do a shorter harder route. No disrespect to Ondra or anything and I'm not saying I think Tommy is the best climber ever. I'm just saying that I think when we talk about climbing it's very hard to make comparisons because you could also point out that Ondra probably couldn't have the speed record on The Nose which is also just a different kind of climbing.

[mountainsite]

Adam told that he doesn't have enough endurance comparing to other climbers, that's why he has to move faster. Maybe his tendency to not re-adjust comparing to other climbers is not only due his high level of accuracy but also because of his better finger strength and not willing to slow down the pace. I mean that maybe even other climbers had the same accuracy as Admin, they wouldn't benefit of climbing in the same way as Adam, because they have their own strength and weaknesses. For one climber having the ideal position on the hold before making the move is more crucial than for another, and the former climber doesn't waste more energy than the latter. The former consumes more oxygen, the latter more ATP. This is my layman theory.

[alexenders]

What's the matter with the video? Third re-upload?

[herbert]

Adam don't have to re-adjust as much because he is taller. I love Ondra as a climber, but people give him too much credit imo and his team's animosity towards Megos is just classless.