Can't get your prints to stick? Try this

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I tried the new SuperTack build plate from Bambu Lab. It's pretty good.

*This site contains affiliate links for which I may be compensated

Licensed under Creative Commons: By Attribution 3.0 License

00:00 Intro
01:59 The new build plate lineup
03:03 First test prints
04:28 Toolbox badges (first layer test)
05:28 The Torture Toaster
06:53 Printing right to the edge
08:06 Conclusions
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maybe i'm the one wierdo, but I actually preferred the first example of your logo with the clear CNC path look inside the letter faces.

originaljws
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I was using the generic Aliexpress versions on 3 of my printers (A1, A1 Mini, K1) for a month before Bambu released theirs. If anyone wants one of those instead, the search term to use is "PEZ" or "Polyurea". Biqu's Cryogrip is also an option. Might as well get the Bambu version, because they're not more expensive than the generic, but it's the only way to get them for non-Bambu printers at the moment

marty
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I've been using the Biqu CryoGrip for a few months and the Bambu textured pei plate never ever gets used since they are a game changer.

sorehammer
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Your intro: If you're doing a whole video on hot plates, especially with a thumbnail of a print with that much overhang, then HECK YES.
I'm here to learn, and you're entertaining as well 👍

LordPhobos
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Got one last week and I must say it grips very well. Printed both Elegoo Rapid PETG and Bambu PETG HF. Took a bit to get used to as it has actually ripped pieces off the bottom of two prints printed in the P1S. Will give it a test on the A1 with a large print as I was having warping issues with PLA. I think it will pass the test. I'm going to order a couple more once they are back in stock.

kevinhenry
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If you're using the textured pei plate with PETG don't use glue. It sticks great but comes straight off with a slight flex. PETG sticks so well

matthewkenchapman
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I just started using the super tack plate a couple days ago, mostly with PETG. It sticks too well at their stock setting of 70° (same as textured and smooth PEI), but since they list 45° as the ideal PLA temp on the super tack, I tried 60 for PETG which also stuck too well, so I set it to 55. I tried 50, but the corners of my print curled up, so I’ve left it at 55. But honestly it’s such a chore to remove prints from that plate, I prefer smooth PEI with Vision Miner NPA. Prints stick like nobody’s business, but release super easy. I try to only use it when I’m concerned about part adhesion, but it’s just so foolproof that I find myself using it more and more just to ensure perfect adhesion and easy print release.

michaelbraaten
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I've been tempted by all these new plates (bambu and biqu), but really I haven't had any issues with the gold textured PEI plates on my A1 and A1 mini printers. Just a quick wipe with 91% isopropyl alcohol before every print and everything sticks fine. I do only print with PLA, PETG and TPU though, but all of those have worked out fine.

NWGR
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I’ve been using ones from SliceWorx for months now. They released plates like these ages ago. Lots of different plates for different printers too. Used it to print a ton of mini license plates for Maker Faire OC and 3DPrintopia. People were shocked to find out the fronts of their plates were the bottom layer.

geektoybox
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I print almost exclusively in PETG and have been using the engineering plate with zero issues. I wash it with warm water then put the liquid glue on it every so often, and have only had a couple bed adhesion issues when it's a really small footprint. In those rare cases setting up a larger brim takes care of it. I am interested in trying the Super Tack plate, so I think I will order one of those.

JCWren
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I was tempted to get it a week ago, but this video pushed me over.

nrdesign
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I started off with the textured pei build plate, but gave up on it for the most part after I couldn't get ASA to stick to it even with a glue stick. I'm very much a fan of their smooth plate. Never had any adhesion issues with it. Plus, using a plastic razor blade to scrape up the calibration/purge lines is much more satisfying than on the textured plate.

paulpardee
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With PETG I mostly use the smooth PEI/HighTemp plate bare (clean with alcohol, no glue, etc) Same with the textured plate. Bed adhesion has always been excellent. In general if I have adhesion issues I don't put anything on and it always seem to be better.

bbrazen
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At timestamp 7:36 you can see (it appears) the sheet is lifting from the Heated bed. Usually indicating the magnets are not strong enough to overcome the part warping. They are not the only company to do this, but I guarantee they wont address it. But rather offer a sale. :) Nice vid though, keep 'em coming . Sorry to nitpick. You can check the flatness of the parts after to confirm.

NathanDavidDodd
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To help with the build plate alignment on the X1, I've been using a Shifty build plate guide (a model that snaps onto the alignment lug and does magic to align the plate). I've gone since launch without one until last month... now I wonder how I lived without it.

mkosmo
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Just came to your channel and just wanted to compliment your content; great videography, great sound, and well curated content. Thank you!

cmcferin
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PLA sticks like whoa. I would say too well because sometimes I feel like I am going to break a print trying to pry it off when I print small things like Zou3D models. I had a friend tell me to stick it in the freezer to get it to release those little models and in my experience that does not help. I'm actually looking forward to when my plate gets a little worn in where it sticks less well.

FYI I have had small PETG models lift on corners, even at 80c, on my A1 using this plate. My X1C doesn't have this problem with this plate so there is still an issue with open air bed slingers and PETG which I have come to understand is a thing with my A1.

Don't forget you aren't supposed to use IPA or any chemicals on the plate. Just soap and water occasionally.

hotfix
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I got the Biqu Cryogrip Glacier purely because it can be wiped down with rubbing alcohol.

It doesn't have the lower bed temps, and isn't quite as sticky (though somewhat more sticky than any other plate I've used, textured included).

The material seems softer at least with the cleaning area where the nozzle scrapes, so maybe it'll have a shorter shelf life but so far so good and I'm exited for this new wave of much better plates.This version also works with a wider variety of filaments.

BeefIngot
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Interesting. I literally just ordered one of these plates. Looked like it could work well, and save a bit of money on heating the plate.

boggisthecat
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I feel like every few years we get a 3D Printer company having a go with a PEX/PEZ build plate under a fancy name and every few years it vanishes when people realise they'd rather have one failure in 100 prints than spending three days removing that tiny bit of filament that has inexplicably bonded to the plate - That and it's not "go to" as Bambu seem to be calling it, you can't reliably use it for PA12, PC or most other materials that hate that coating - It's GREAT for PLA - nothing else except maybe PETG. It's always better to have the print bed specialised for the material, there is no one size fits all.

Flashforge went 8 years shipping printers with textured PEZ because for a very long time they were considered the go to for beginner printers, even they have stopped shipping it. I don't know how long you've been printing for but there used to be a certain tape we all printed on coated in PEZ, when was the last time someone printed on tape - it really is a blast from the past.

There really is a good reason every printer comes with a PEI sheet now

odditythreeD