5 Things You Must Do to Your Classic Ford Mustang!

When you get a new classic car there are so many things to do. In this video, I help you with what you should start with. This video applies to other classic cars too! Stay tuned for more videos!

1. Shelby drop
2. Rear metal firewall
3. Dual bowl brake reservoir
4. Posi & lower gears
5. Front disc brakes

#fourspeedfilms
ben kahan
1965 mustang
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v8
American
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[FourSpeedFilms]

Thanks for the support! For more content follow me on Instagram @benkahan

[markrs]

I bought my 1967 Mustang when I was 21, I'm now 62, still have it, still love it. I've all the mods except the Shelby drop, going to look into that soon. Great shows, love them all so far.

[prodiggy]

1. Shelby drop
2. Rear metal firewall
3. Dual reservoir (master cylinder)
4. Positraction
5. Disc brakes

[MrCrazypb]

As someone who has been 22 before I’m amazed you are talking about safety and stopping the car. Most guys buy cars and want power mods before handling and braking. Keep up the good work

[ReyJOnliine]

“If you’re going fast and can’t stop, that’s a recipe for disaster.” Good advice. You definitely want to feel confident in stopping before you push the car

[diez]

loving the content bro. im 23 with a 65 with a 302/t5, there's still so much to do but the car has been a riot. i had a 2013 gt before this car but these old cars are so much more fun. im loving that younger car dudes are getting back into the older muscle now that prices have sort of calmed down from what they used to be

[pinkyogurt]

“You crash you die you don’t want that” actually had me crying 😂

[pd]

Nice choices. I have owned a 1965 Mustang since 1978. I also built AC Cobras for a living. Here are my personal modifications starting from front to back. And my goal was to try to use all OEM parts from FORD and keep the 1965 look. Yes to the Shelby drop, but. Here is my extra secret. But I also added extra metal under the upper control arms where the saddle bolts, because I have seen crack around those holes. 1974 Maverick spindles, they have free caster built in and can come with disc brakes dual master cylinder/adjustable proportion valve. if you get car with those, same parts as a Granada conversion. Next, bias the upper control arm shaft rearward 1/8th of an inch. Die grind a very thin channel X for grease that does not interfere with the threads. 1968 Mustang big block springs, and cut one third of one coil off the top. On all four corners upper arm bolts are only one shim. The car sits almost level, not having that nose dive like your car and all Shelby cars. That allows for bigger tires, a better looking stance and no worrying about speed breakers. Sit in the car while it is being aligned so it is zeroed with your weight. Monte Carlo and export brace. Good strong shocks, 0ne inch front sway bar, all polyurethane bushings, power steering close ratio box and manual, no power. I have one extra half leaf on the rear with a 5/8th inch rear sway bar, polyurethane bushings. Late model diaphragm clutch m10 1/2 inch. Duraspark electronic ignition with a 6AL MSD box (first non OEM part). Here is a big one, Tremec 5spd for that traction lock you bought. I modified the Tremc bell housing so that I kept all the 1965 clutch pedal, and linkage, clutch arm, throwout bearing. MOD: drill out the two rivets on your 1965 bell housing. Make an exact template using the four transmission mounting holes and drill the two fulcrum holes. The Tremec bell housing: remove the cable pivot arm, bolt the template and drill the two fulcrum holes and counter sink them once template is removed. The difference in the top loader and Tremec input shaft is, the Tarmac is 5/8th inch longer. So, get aluminum bar stock and machine down to 5/8th inch thick. The block should be like a spacer for the fulcrum assemble, moving the fulcrum forward the 5/8th inch difference. Use grade 8 fine thread counter sunk bolts and metal lock nuts. Use your standard 1965 adjustable clutch rod and add an adjustable 1968 Mustang lower clutch rod. Now you can cruise at 75 mph at 2200 RPMs. I also paid a little extra for the new driveshaft and got an aluminum one. Excluding the Tremec, this is a very inexpensive way to upgrade your car for dependability and longevity. I did this 35 years ago, and have never touched the car since and it was a daily driver. Three point seat belts is a must. Aluminum radiator, electric fan with a relay is great. I powder coated everything under the hood but the block. Extra, but it looks as good now as 35 years ago, Simple Green, new again. My last is, I took small tach and oil gauges and made my own Ralley Pac style gauge package. I have done the Shelby drop before, but I really believe my car handles even better with my modification. With that nose drop, your weight shifts rearward like a fulcrum. I don't get as much push or that extreme over steer. So I just gave you my decades of modifications. Good luck.

[sartorst]

I agree with all that with the addition of rack and pinion

[dfrford]

100% spot on, i did not think about the rear seat firewall!! Thank You

[LypheusX]

The rear sheet metal behind the seat was a mod I made too, bonus is less exhaust coming into cab on highway and great for diffusing in tank fuel pump noise if you sound deaden as well - under estimated upgrade and easy to do

[finalmage]

Going fast doesn't matter if you can't stop! Disc brake upgrade is number one thing I did on my '68 for safety and drivability.

[beaverlv]

I did the Arnie Drop (aka Shelby) 6 years ago on my 67 Mustang I've had 28 years. Best mod to do on a Mustang. Another great mod that you should do while you're doing the drop is, strengthen the shock towers with weld-in reinforcement plates. It's a must on those cars. So many easy and great mods to make Mustangs handle better.

[mandojr]

Doing a C4 to aod conversion on my 67 shortly... Rear gears and posi are next on my wish list

[N-Scale]

I am totally down with your car and the look of her. I am saving money to put a Paxton Supercharger on my 2008 Bullitt.
Mike

[paulcolson]

Great video. I’d add a three point safety belt.

[JJackMoto]

I have a 68 coupe, bought it a year and a half ago. The absolute best thing I have done, performance and safety, was the Wilwood disc conversion from drums. Such a difference. I was going to go the cheaper route with the MC, but I took your advice and shelled our for the Wilwood MC. After some rebuilding of the brake lines, it's a totally different car. That and the QA1 coilovers have been a huge transformation.

[seancunn]

YES to disc brakes! Monte Carlo bar, one piece export brace.

[davelowell]

As a 67 owner you’ve made very good points young man. Now find a 67-68, you’ll enjoy it more, but keep yours, don’t sell it.

[markchapmon]

2, 3 & 5 are safety must do as soon as you can. The posi and lower gears are fun and if you put an overdrive transmission in at the same time, the effect on your fuel economy won't be as noticeable. I'm not familiar with the Shelby drop, but your 65's stance is pretty sweet. Personally, I'd lose the bias ply tires and get some performance radials. Good video overall.