How to Make a Wooden Yo-Yo (with a bearing) // Woodworking

Recently I got to take a 30 minute yo-yo class from a couple of professional yo-yoers and it opened my eyes to how much fun (and how accessible) it was. I immediately started thinking of how to make a yo-yo and since I still need lots of practice on my lathe, I figured I'd give it a try.
I added bearing to my yo-yo and as a first try, it worked pretty well. I learned a lot and hope to turn another yo-yo soon building in the feedback from commenters.

Some other yo-yo builds I found:

TOOLS LIST:
(some are better than the versions I own)

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How to make a wooden Yo-yo (with a bearing) // Woodworking | I Like To Make Stuff

I Like To Make Stuff

[kaselier]

As a semi pro yo-yoer, I can approve. As far as making the yoyo, you should consider making the inner area around the bearing (where the string touches) as smooth you can, possibly with micro-mesh? The rougher the wood, the more responsive the yo-yo will be. Roughness will over time break down the string and risk sending the yo-yo flying. You may have noticed that your YYF One had little rings of silicone around the bearing. Because the plastic is so smooth, there needs to be a mechanism in place to make it come back, which is what the silicone rings (o-rings) are. You can get some yourself, or just make a small indentation around the bearing, the same size on each side, and fill them with standard 100% silicone. Another thing to note, is that the wider the gap, the less responsive it will be, knowing that might shape the way you make a next one (if you end up making another one).

[AtomicShrimp]

Really enjoyed this. Good to see workarounds for limited equipment - as this is a problem we all face.

One way to work around the centre drilling: Drill through the workpiece first and fit it on a metal rod - then mount your first sacrificial block on the faceplate - bore a little hole in the centre using a parting tool, to receive the metal rod - then glue the workpiece to the sacrificial block, then drill a hole in the other sacrificial block and glue this on the other end - you have to be careful when parting off, as there's the metal rod in the middle.

[Claytn]

Hey Bob, former yo-yoer here I think I may have an interesting improvement in your design.(very cool project by the way) After looking at one of my old yoyos I noticed that the sides of the yoyo hold only the center race steady. Wen you are yo-yoing this allows the outer race to sit free, while the inner race and the yoyo itself spin, giving you much longer spin times. Thank you for all the great videos!

[TallJakeW]

Man, I used to love yo-yos. This is so cool. I think you're right about the ridge getting caught and causing the wobble. Most of my favorite yo-yos had a deep, smooth transition.

[siucracos]

Hey Bob, thanks for continuing to post even in the midst of moving and such!

[MikedUp]

Any chance of a follow up new and improved Yoyo? Would love to see a second attempt

[manmademayhem]

okay so I've been following the channel for a while now, and I happen to have a background in yoyo's and even have designed one which was commercially sold for 200 bucks a piece. I'm not claiming to be an expert, but here's some tips: 1. total weight should ideally be between 60-70 grams. I bet yours is much lighter since it's wooden. Usually with plastic yoyos a metal ring is used around the outer rim. 2. weight distribution is key: weight on the outside rim increases spin times. 3. You will never get a dead smooth yoyo made with hand tools. The tiniest difference in weight, weight distribution and shape between the halves will destabilize the spin slightly, but noticeably. A cnc and an experienced operator don't even always get it right, so forget getting it perfect. 4. you are right about the walls of the gap being to steep. Make them taper off more. 5. the bearing seat usually has a more intricate design in order to avoid any chance of unwanted friction. Yours must be rubbing all over the place probably. TBH you won't get much better results unless you go the CNC way and unless youstay away from wood, which is inherently inconsistent in density i.e. weight. IMHO off course. :-) I'm impressed you got it to this point by just eyeballing trough the whole build! greetz

[brokenantlerworkshop]

Yo! Cool project! A bearing without a fidget spinner! 😂

Rule #0 - No Fidget Spinners.

[evancashman]

Ohhh, this is what you were wanting advice from Jimmy and David about on the podcast! Love how it turned out on the end!

[mindstormsnxtbuilder]

For me, there is nothing more satisfying to see than your passion to make stuff. This is why I love your channel so much, the content is great, the projects are amazing and it's clear that you work from your heart.
Please keep making every Thursday special :)

[coreycreehan]

Super awesome to see you make a thing just cause it interested you and not necessarily because you needed it.

[kellyklaasksu]

My grandson has been asking me to make him a yoyo. You have helped inspire me with your video. Thanks.

[oxintheshop]

Great project Bob. Quick tip next time if you feel like it put the chuck out of the drill press and put it in the lathe tail stock. Should.... work perfectly and easy to take out and put back in the drill press when done. Take care good luck with the move too.

[MichaelLawing]

YES!!! This is on my shortlist for lathe projects. I hadn't thought about using a bearing or a metal axle, though. This has my gears turning!

I believe my yo-yo from the fidget-spinner-like yo-yo boom in the late 90's has upgraded bearings and weights. I also had a finger guard and used a leather snuff holster to store it on my belt.

[markb.]

So first of all, the yoyofactory one (the black plastic yoyo you had) uses a silicon ring response system and a rounded wall (the inner butterfly shape) to reduce string friction and to ensure that the yoyo comes up. Most professional yoyos are made of 6061 aircraft grade aluminum or even sometimes 7075 or titanium. But most wooden yoyos use a fixed axle response system which only involve the friction between the string and the wooden axle (without a bearing). And as a tip, the ideal weight for a yoyo is around 60 to 70 grams.

[xXSANEZXx]

You should thread the center making a place for an axle, and purchase the bearing and axle from a yoyo store, touch up the gap, and make a spot for some rubber k pads. If it doesnt pull up when you tug it you've just made a pro grade yoyo. Pros have to bind to get it to come up, so you dont want it to come up by a tug but by a bind. Shape and everything else looked awesome

[ThisIsReMarkable]

Hi I'm Mark and I like to watch Bob make stuff. :)
This was a great little project. Happy Moving!!

[Aioli]

As a yoyoer i have to say the shape and weight of your yoyo is amazing for a first try! and i think i have the solution to your problem. what your yoyo lacks is a response system. Yoyos now a day have response system that allows them to hit the string and return to your hand. Now modern responds systems involve silicon. The response system is inside the yoyo those two jelly rings on the sides. you can use that as a general idea for the secomd prototype. Two options are available you can purchase silicon pads from a yoyo retailer or make your own. For option 2 you can use flowable silicon at a hardware store I personally use the red one (im sorry i forgot the actual name but its red so yeah) which can be found in the automotive section. Another thing to consider is if you want your yoyo to be responsive or unresponsive. responsive is like your yoyo now it comes back at a tug. unresponsive requires a trick to return called a "bind" which is used in advance play. Anyway hope to see the second one soon and great videos !

[Xenon]

Okay, so. Yoyoer here.

All yoyos that are plastic or metal have a type of response system. Starburst or response pad, your One has response pads, which are little pieces of silicone. Starbursts are pieces that stick out a slight bit. Both work by causing friction. (I might be able to get pictures for you, if you'd like.) If you want the yoyo to work 100% of the time, and be super nice and responsive, you may need one. (Maybe not though, if it's wood, you might just need to make the axle gap smaller and you won't need a system for it.)

[LivefreeanddiyTv]

I made a fixed axle a couple month ago... it also has a bit of a wobble, but it works every time. The one thing that surprised me the most was the weight and how much it hurts coming back :)... great first attempt!