First Start Of My Abandoned 800-Horsepower Cobra Mustang After Sitting For 20 Years!

preview_player
Показать описание

In this video, I start my 800-Horsepower Cobra Mustang after sitting for 20 years! Unfortunately, we have some issues that I need help with.

Try out my new Gigantic Dry Towel! You'll be able to dry your entire car in a couple of minutes! One swipe, and it's Dry! Clay mitts are back in stock as well!

Рекомендации по теме
Комментарии
Автор

This show started as something cool, and has evolved into something special. I get the feeling that many of us watching this show, even though we have never met, many of us would probably become friends, and we help fix each others vehicles. Thank you to Alex and all of the crew that makes this possible.

scondetech
Автор

As a retired ford tech. I would suggest to resort back to the basic set up of the vehicle, stock computer no add ons... and proceed from there. Big issue there is apparently electronics have been exposed to moisture and it will bring out the gremlins. Good start so far....

cobrasa
Автор

I was really disappointed to see what had happened to this historic cobra but am so glad someone rose to the challenge of getting it running again. Hoping one day it can become the fastest cobra once again.

foxify
Автор

As a 03-04 cobra owner, You need to ditch all the aftermarket piggyback junk, that was a band-aid of the era for people not having proper cal software and large enough MAFs. There's no reason not to run just a stock PCM for this build and get a tuning suite for it (SCT, HP tuners etc)... The pic of the passenger side fenderwell shows the MAF connector is still in place, so whoever modded it was smart enough to keep the factory wiring harness in-tact (in the engine bay at least).

I'd start by fixing the passenger footwell wiring mods, throw the rotted aftermarket piggyback junk in the trash, and get a tuning suite. If you really want a stand-alone they make megasquirt plug and plays for that car, you could keep it speed density if you wish but there's really no reason not to run a MAF setup at this point, it's well sorted system and it's just not necessary to run speed density on these cars unless you're going big power (like north of 1k to the wheels).

sdmoparmaninsd
Автор

Just to let you know, the Gauge cluster is what holds the pats key codes. You need to erase all keys (all keys lost) and reprogram them. FORSCAN or your Autel tool should allow you to do it. It's frustrating as hell to deal with the 10min security protocols, one incorrect step and it will boot you out and have to start all over again. Just dealt with this on a base model 97 F150 work truck a customer wanted to upgrade to a cluster with a tachometer out of a Lariat model. And to make matters worse he only had one key. Long story short took 4 attempts, but finally was able to get it programmed and running. You need to have 2 pats keys that are different from each other, a cloned key off the master will not program it. But from what I saw your system is registering 2 keys. Good luck!

chrisbundrock
Автор

Hi Alex, I have experience with the Speed Pro stand alone box that your car has. I actually installed several of them on Mustangs back in the day. I can probably help you get it working . Reach out if you need assistance.

jasondale
Автор

Color orings usually mean the temp and composition properties.

I. E. Green are for A/C systems. Normal rubber rings would disintegrate

black for nitrile, brown for fluorocarbon, red for Neoprene, rust (hard to tell brown for rust) for Silicone, blue for fluorosilicone, and purple for EP

MikeHarris
Автор

You know it’s a great day when you have Legit Street Cars content 👊👊👊

pierre-davidmoreau
Автор

Quick tip. When putting the washers on the bilt in a tight spot or if you loose a bolt in a hard to get spot but you can still reach. Just put a small magnet inside a glove and you will have magnetic finger tips. 🤦I just found out about this and I graduated 03, with 4 yrs of Automotive Elective. Stay wrenching and thanks for all the videos.

SMOKEDOUT-
Автор

Just a tip when applying RTV Gasket Sealant, apply it, then let it sit for at least 10 minutes to solidify slightly that way you get a perfect seal compared to applying it to the oil pan instantly and squeezing out the soft rtv when tightening the oil pan bolts leaving a possible airpocket/bubble. I've never had any engine part leak after learning that trick.

TheBenzKid
Автор

If I remember correctly. Turn the key to crank then leave it in the run position for at least 10 mins or until the theft light goes out. turn it off and back to run 2 more times letting it sit 10+ mins each time. Should take about 30 mins to reprogram. Good luck dude!

hoganhogan
Автор

You and Max make such a great team. I love your sense of humor, and Max's editing really highlights everything so well. Even though most of your vids are 40+ minutes, they don't seem long at all because of Max's editing.

dogtiredguitars
Автор

I love your schedule, I used to watch Stacy every Saturday morning and I recall you mentioning you wanted to follow that cadence and you’re doing great! You’re the man, I love Saturdays and you’re a part of that!

axa
Автор

My names josh and I gotta say this has became one of my new fav channels! U fix stuff and do it correctly without just throwing money at it I dig it and you’re a great mechanic!

joshfancher
Автор

Hey Alex, I’m not much for commenting on these but the original Forgeline wheels you’re planning to replace are very rare, worth quite a bit, and are very high quality lightweight period correct wheel. Would love to see them refinished and reinstalled on this awesome car.

You also may check PN’s, but I believe along with Terminator cams you also may have Terminator “C” heads which IIRC are a bit of an upgrade, especially for boosted cars.

Cheers from NM, thanks for the never ending quality content. Best automotive channel on YT right now IMO and it’s not even close.

cwsly
Автор

From what I remember on my 98 and 01 Cobras the flashing theft light is bad but if it's solid then goes out it should be good. I think your issue is totally the standalone ECU not sending the signal to your fuel injectors. Something we used to do back in the late 90s early 00s was remove the chip from the key and tape it to the inside of the plastic housing right next to the key barrel. That's how we got around the PATs system to add remote start and use our own alarm system

davidallen
Автор

Out of everyone I watch on YouTube. I really appreciate the in depth work on the engine and vehicles. Makes watching this videos that much better.

sterlingdabney
Автор

All the wiring is crazy, but cant wait to see it cleaned up next time.

zollotech
Автор

I had a similar problem on my 98 Mustang. For the years 99-04 of the SN95, the PATS module is built into the cluster. 96-98 has a separate module under the dash for the PATS. (at least to my understanding.) I had gotten the car not running and after some diagnosing I figured out the injectors weren't firing. Apparently the guy that had the car before me had a incompatible tune on there and it wouldn't let the handheld tuner return it to stock. After contacting support I managed to get the stock loaded back up and it fired up. Conclusion of this is that there may be a bad tune on it. I've also heard that you can have the PATS system tuned out to where it's disabled. One other thing I've heard is that a bad ground can cause it. Check the ground going to the ECM and there is also a ground right under that ECM I do believe.

tydoyle
Автор

actually, just turn the key on for ten minutes, then once thats over DONT turn it off, just START the car. the ecu is possibly fine since the car is working nearly everywhere else and its not burning/smoking. once you start the car however, run it for a bit. dont shut it off while out on a drive. drive for abit. then return and "check" to see if the resync has occurred. if not, then try GMC/Chevys b.s. reset/resync procedures. or you purchase a chip that flashes it out of the ecu but some say it runs like ass without pats. not sure on that one, normally 2000s vehicles mine included run just fine without security but are at higher risks of being stolen.

When you leave the key for ten minutes, dont remove the key, crank it until it "blips" and tries to start. THEN redo it again, blip and then one more tiime once the third time is done (30 minutes total) crank to start. i might be slightly off, as its been a while since ive delt with PATS or chevys version but their both pretty similar in terms of re sync. google chevys b.s. and follow the 30 min re sync guide as thats what i done. worked like a charm. buddy got a free truck replaced dam near everything, had new keys etc pump, switch, pcm and none of it worked. cud had bypassed security but re syncing worked. uncle had an old cobra which had this issue. and the same method worked for him.

Kraxtn