Tweed Guide - How To Wear Harris Tweeds, Donegal, Cheviot, Saxony...

Tweed began as a handwoven fabric that was made on looms. The cloth was rough and thick and coarse. And the colors were earthy because they were inspired by nature.

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00:00 Introduction

00:42 The Origin of Tweed Name
Some people claim, it comes from the river tweed, which is in Scotland. Supposedly the cloth was first woven in the Tweed Valley. Other people claim, tweed is a twist of the Scottish word tweel.

Now, tweed is usually quite heavy and warm. But believe it or not, it used to be the high-performance fabric of its time. The English gentry was quick to adopt tweed as the preferred fabric for golfing, hunting or fishing under country estates.

Today, It is rarely used for sport activities anymore because it is quite insulating and even though wool is quite absorbent when it comes to sweat it is simply too warm for most people.

02:22 Tweed Named After Varieties of Sheep

Cheviot Tweed
Cheviot is a breed of white faced sheep that were first kept in a cheviot hills in Northumberland near the Scottish border. Generally, it is a larger and rougher type of tweed. It is quite coarse to the touch, such as this one.

Shetland Tweed
The opposite of cheviot in the sense that it is much softer, it is finer and usually have a looser weave.

03:35 Geographically-named Tweeds

Donegal Tweed
The name of Donegal is derived from the Irish county of Donegal and the characteristic is a tweed with knobs as you can see here. Rather than having a plain fabric, you see like orange or red, gray speckle, sometimes you have pink or green or something very outlandish but overall it creates a very soft look.

Saxony tweed
In the middle ages, it was forbidden for the Christian areas of Spain to export sheep.Generally, it is made from a Merino wool today and it is another wonderful sport coat or a jacket fabric.

05:46 Functionally-named Tweeds

Gamekeeper Tweed
The heavier fabric usually starting at 700g, about 24 oz. It is made for cold weathers, so it is quite insulating and hard wearing. It really got its name from the people who use it outside all day in cold harsh conditions.

Sporting Tweeds or Hunting Tweeds
Developed specifically for hunting and the idea was that one hand, that the colors are chosen so you blend in with the environment. On the other hand, a hunting tweed jacket has a shoulder patch just like this one, so you could easily hold your rifle and it wouldn’t wear out your shoulder fabric so quickly.

Thornproof Tweed
Made of two-ply wool yarns which are supposed to be woven tightly and as a consequence if you go through a thorn it may poke through, but is then self-repairing.

Supasax is a Saxony tweed used to be made by Bladen. It had been discontinued for a while. I think it is back now, though I really prefer the old stuff because it has a special color depth and wonderful patterns.

07:27 TWEED PATTERNS

Plain twill weave tweed. It has these ridges that are quite wide they can be a little finer, but this is typical for a plain twill weave.

Overcheck twill. It’s still a twill weave but not as pronounced as the one you can see here, but it has this overcheck.

Herringbone. Herringbone is named that way because it’s supposed to resemble fish bones. Basically, a herringbone is a twill weave, so it’s the same twill weave you can see here but the rows are adjusted to go up and down right next to each other giving you this herringbone pattern.

Barleycorn. it’s called that way because upon closer inspection it resembles a kernel of barley.

How do you actually wear a tweed? It's particularly well suited for fall, winter outfits, because otherwise, you simply overheat.

When not to wear tweed? If you are in a traditional white collar environment, tweed is not the fabric to wear. Stay away from formal events, especially evening events.

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Gentleman's Gazette

[Parker_Miller_M.S.]

Please consider doing a wardrobe tour. I don't know about anyone else but I would be very interested in seeing the sheer scale and grandeur of your wardrobe. Great video as always btw :D

[DJ-egzg]

I normally wear Harris Tweed hats, but I have to say I recently got a hat from 'Murphy Of Ireland' who from what I see, are a relatively small company. Their Donegal Tweed hats are hand made and absolutely beautiful. I bought a blue and grey herringbone and it fits in with about any blue or grey coat I have. I'm mentioning it here because they really do deserve some recognition -their product is excellent.

[achaarpickler]

Its a very 'academic' fabric. Gives you a bit of prestige if you carry it well. Great video, very informative...

[guyman]

if I cannot wear tweed, I do not go. tweed is what I like and life is too short. wonderful video.

[SCwirlify]

This was some time ago.
How delightful to listen to someone barely contain themselves,
as they talk with passion about their interest <3

[papertheproducer]

At the end he states not to wear white as it contrasts with the casual nature of tweed but at 6:16 everyone is wearing white shirts...and they look good

[up]

He is so wonderfully passionate about quality fabrics. Thanks for this most interesting video

[gsrocks]

The overcoat at 4:15 is my dream coat. I’ve been searching vintage stores in Minnesota forever for one but to no avail!

[brettthorndike]

Tweed is my Personal Favorite .... Nice to learn so many details about it...Thank you Raphael👍🏻😊

[dpledford]

I am a professor and I wear tweed a lot myself as I have to walk from building to building a lot. I have a green tweed vest I like to pair with other off jackets in the winter. I live in the mountains of Tennessee, so it gets quite chilly outside and windy during the winter.

[drakependragon]

My first tweed Jacket is one that was passed down to me by my grandmother, that she got (but never wore of course, since it is a mens jacket) from my great grandfather

[Chuck_Loopin]

Tweed looks great while being functional. I love your enthusiasm in this video!

[FrankGutowski-lsjt]

Now I know what I own, what I’ve seen, and what to keep an eye out for.

Too bad your channel was around years ago. I had a friend in grad school who was interviewing for college prof jobs, but wasn’t getting offers. I said it was because he didn’t look the part: he’d wear a loud, used car salesman-style sport coat. I sold him my tasteful, slightly too long, tweed sport coat for $5, what I’d paid 4 years before. Next interview, he got an offer.

[mrnobody]

Thank God for tweed! It's such a versatile material, it's that semi-casual attire that you can wear in almost any situation, except work.

[the-chillian]

The chief characteristic of a twill isn't alternating colors, but the method of weaving where every weft thread passes under at least one warp thread, and then over at least 2 warp threads. The number of warp threads being crossed each time defines the type of twill. For instance a 2/2 twill has the weft pass under 2 warp threads, then over 2 warp threads. There is also an offset with each row that creates the fabric's pattern. Herringbone is made by reversing the direction of the twill (either horizontally or vertically, depending on how the loom is set up) at regular intervals.

The alternating diagonal patterns come from using different color threads for the warp and weft. If the same or similar colors are used, the pattern is much less noticeable.

You can weave a twill out of any kind of fiber. Chino, for instance, is cotton twill. But it was probably invented for wool.

Wait -- BOGEY is your example of an "old, stodgy gentleman"? WHAT? In his day he was the very essence of the cool and the fashionable! Not stodgy in the least!

[miriamconnerty]

Bought my first tweed waistcoat today. I love it. Thanks for making this video.

[naponsae]

This is a great channel for classy gentlemen to procrastinate 😘

[fountaincap]

I love tweed. To me it's the perfect balance between dressy and casual. Wish it was cold enough to wear my herringbone tweed jacket year round!

[stylishoversixty]

Excellent information on tweeds their origin how to wear and what to combine them with your videos are always fantastic and truly helpful I enjoy always the one-on-one interviews great job as always thanks!

[brunonjezic]

This is really interesting style of transitions between scenes. This is a guide i hoped for... I love tweed and own a lot of tweed pices so totally in my alley