Cheap EVO 6 Engine Teardown - How BAD is the 4G63?

We continue the rebuild of the Mitsubishi Lancer Evo 6 VI to beat our Subaru STI by tearing down the 4G63 engine showing you a complete how to process and getting ready to rebuild it.

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[hpa]

Nice work guys! It looks like you've actually got a good base motor to work with. Couple of things that I wanted to offer:


- I've found the best way of getting oxidised/filthy aluminium castings back to 'as new' condition is vapour blasting. Sand/media blasting gives a really coarse surface finish that tends to get dirty again really quick.
- That vac canister is part of the factory ALS system and you don't need it.
- The knock sensors on the EVO 4G63 engines are generally pretty reliable but of course if it's taken a hit or been visually damaged then all bets are off :)
- The 4G63 EVO4-9 run a waste spark ignition system and those coils are dual post coils - One side is like a conventional COP system and the other post runs to the lead. They are prone to heat related failure and given yours is now a 'two piece' coil I'd opt for replacing them and the leads with new.
- The wear on your bores and piston skirts looks pretty typical for what I'd expect to see from a high mileage motor. Nothing too worrying really. What I'd be more concerned about is any scratches you can feel with your finger nail. Ultimately it doesn't matter since you'd be best to use a 0.020" oversize forged piston which gives the machinist the opportunity to bore and hone the bores to get them back to perfectly round and true. It's also a good idea to have the block torque-plate honed as the bores do tend to distort a little on the 4G63 when the head is bolted down.
- I always removed the balance shafts on any performance build and provided the rest of the components are balanced by your machinist you shouldn't have any abnormal vibration levels. I don't remove them so much for power as reliability since it's one more belt that can fail. If you remove the shafts though don't just cut the shaft off the oil pump driven gear and block the oil hole as many do - This can result in oil pump failure. Instead you can have a machinist machine the counter weights off the balance shaft. This eliminates the weight but still supports the oil pump gear. The other shaft can simply be removed but you need to turn the balance shaft bearings to blank the oil gallery holes. A frost plug works well to blank the resulting hole in the front cover ;)
- As for your main bolts, personally I'd opt for a set of ARP main studs - In particular you'll often see fretting between the block and cradle with stock bolts in high power/high rpm engines so the ARP option is cheap insurance. In my experience the ARP studs don't distort the main bearing tunnel so there's no need to hone the tunnel.

Hope that helps and look forward to seeing the updates!

[speedacademy]

Did you all enjoy the longer 30-min format of this video? Or would you have preferred two 15-min videos? Or did we YAP too much in this video? It does take us longer to shoot the 30-min videos though so there wouldn't be as much weekly content.

[ericgarrison]

Oh come on, I never needed to bag n tag everything, did it all from memory. Besides, everyone knows car makers always put Xtra bolts and wires w every car I disassemble. Now if you'll excuse I have to go wait for the towtruck. Lol. Merry Christmas dudes

[jakethesnake]

Its like saturday morning cartoons for adults!

[TobyGreenough]

I was yelling at the screen when you forgot to pull the half shaft, then when you had trouble with the throw out bearing (push style) glad you got em quick. Love this series.

[SubBassFrequency]

The plastic canister under the intake manifold is a vacuum canister for the SAS (Secondary Air System or air bypass antilag) which is a factory antilag system used in Rally. But the SAS valve and exhaust side plumbing has been removed from your engine so it wont be doing anything. It is normally plumbed into the exhaust manifold where the two large banjo bolts have been blocked off. The system passes boost from the intake around the engine straight into the exhaust where the ECU adds extra fuel for combustion in the exhaust manifold to keep the turbo spinning when you lift off the throttle.

The Knock Sensor should be fine unless you can see physical damage to it. Phantom knock is common in these cars as they can pick up all sorts of noise. Often this can be tuned out. But you guys really should get the service manual and there is a factory pdf manual online that was available for free, but it looks like that might be hard to find now.

[TheHulmie]

You guys need to watch Jafromobile's Channel before starting your rebuild he has a huge wealth of knowledge on these engines with plenty of tips that will help

[TheDaynger]

Good choice to take advice from Andre at HP Academy, he was big in the New Zealand EVO tuning/building scene and held world records for 1/4 mile passes in his EVO3 DOCILE.

[Ornamech]

I could watch you guys for hours. One of my absolute favorite YouTube channels.

[Triicks]

brass brush only, do not use stainless steel or steel brushes on aluminum. Use a brass wheel then spray it silver. otherwise it will re oxidize in litteraly a month. you could get it vapor blasted if you wanted to be super lazy.

[OriginalRangsta]

Andre at HP Academy is great, awesome channel!

[Laminur]

Love HP Academy. They're really getting out there and trying to show the world that engine building and tuning isn't witchcraft, it's a skill that anyone can learn if they put the effort in.

[braydonscully]

If in doubt replace all the sensors. It’s a while your in there thing. Better now than pulling it all back apart after.

[gspdfreak]

I believe at 29:10 those were valve spring retainer keepers and valve stem seals, valve guides get pressed in the head and for your application bronze would be a great choice for the material. Awesome video cant wait to see how everything comes together #teamDSM

[chakk]

Yep, love this channel. Really love this channel! Did I say that I LOVE THIS 🙌

[corwininadsm]

Probably worth throwing in some new syncro's in the Transmission too.

[ItsJustCams]

Moral of the story: Let the stance folks stance it, buy it for cheap, turn it into a beast.

[scaniamanHR]

Watching you try and wiggle that gearbox off wondering why the hell it won't come free... I did exactly the same thing. Then.... read the manual and pulled the inspection bungs out and popped the spring clip on the clutch plate hahaha! Well done guys great video!

[nrgk]

Read the “friendly” manual. I have RTFM on a tshirt (I’m in IT)

[signal_msw]

Also should have gone S2 cams. More power and almost no loss over S1’s.