A Gentleman’s London, Episode Eighteen: Métier

For the eighteenth episode of A Gentleman’s London, Tom Chamberlin explores Métier's world of modular luxury, where supple, untreated leathers from elite French and Italian tanneries transform into chameleon-like companions, shapeshifting from boardroom to bar with effortless grace.

Videography: Hash Rifai, Public Members Club

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[allcleansmith]

Just found Tom, Thank you for letting us into the very best of London, God bless you Sir .

[silasmoser]

This is great. Thank you for your work.

Close-ups of products being discussed would take things to the next level.

[downingbethune]

Wow, two videos in this series in a week! Excellent My favorite series.

[Akbr]

I’m glad Metier is finally getting some exposure. I have a few of their products. Really well made and that are thought through. Fantastic service at the Mayfair boutique. Hope they continue to flourish.

[jeffroberts]

I had never heard of Metier. The bags are something I will definitely check out. Exactly what I've been looking for.

[stylishoversixty]

I give you absolute thanks and appreciation for sharing this video...I too like to carry a tote whenever I'm out and about attending to my daily routine, as well I marvel at the two types of leather bags that were featured in the video, I shall do some further research on Metier and plan to invest in one of their outstanding bags, again thanks so very much for sharing it is much appreciated!

[sitbone]

Very nice bags. I like the unstructured, soft briefcase style. This woman can talk.

[theofarmmanager]

I am a repeated viewer of the Rake and was particularly interested in this video as I am a hobby leather worker (alongside long term hobby woodworker). The cost (materials, labour and overheads) do not necessarily have a connection to the sales price. In the case of, for instance, groceries, they probably do with standards margins added to cost. An obvious example of where cost and sales do not relate is the price of housing. Analyse the cost of bricks, timber, land and labour and I would not expect there to be a direct correlation to what the market will take if that property is sold. Another would be a painting by, say, Monet; cost and sales price are quite different.

Then you come to brands. A successful brand will allow the sale price to have no direct correlation to cost price. People will apparently pay a fortune for a jacket emblazoned with RL.

When I look at the Metier bags (the Closer for example), I can calculate the cost of materials and labour. The materials, using prime calfskin outer and lamb or goatskin fully lined interior plus the minimal hardware would be around £250. I only hand sew using the traditions saddle stitch as it is by far the most durable way of stitch and so my labour hours are very high; in this case, let’s say 40. I can’t be certain how long it would take to machine the bag but my guess would be 5 to 8 hours. Even so, take my 40 and multiply by a reasonable charge rate for a home worker and you get £1000. A machinist might charge £250?

So, “my cost” is £1250 - but it could be £500 if machine made. So, is the £3000 that Metier charge a good deal? The answer for me is yes if you want a very well made bag of high quality materials with a recognised brand. It won’t keep your items any more secure than a £50 bag but that comparison is the same as comparing a Dacia to a BMW in that both will get you from A to B and both have the same safety rating.

[sutats]

Fewer and fewer people are suiting up through the decades since the revolution of denimwear.

[JonasM.M.]

I personally just cannot take any shop seriously that defines themselves through their price. Yes if something is entirely handmade then it has its price but that’s not something you talk about. It’s just a compromise that has to be made and I’m fine with it but I would never buy anything from a brand thatwants to be seen as an expensive luxury brand or something like that.

[James-ctwc]

Another wonderful brand and certainty wetted my appetite for this weeks Rake magazine release. Thanks Tom.

[Loupadron]

Wow, terrific and she sounds American like me across the pond in New Jersey, USA. Thanks again Mr. Chamberlin.

[richardhadley]

I have always disliked designer labels. I think flashing them, especially covering everything with them such as Vuitton does, has always made those sporting them seem very insecure to me. These bags appear to be exquisitely crafted and well designed. Something to aspire to. Maybe one day.

[herbigt]

@tfchamberlin maybe I missed it, but what is the suede bag you're holding during the first half of the video?

[mikecollins]

Tom, as always, dressed superbly. May I ask if your jacket in the video is made with the brown and black houndstooth cloth from Fox?

[AdrianMenck-udzv]

She, SHE !, gave the paramount introduction into her product ! Stunning position...state of the art. I bet her products are very well made and lasting...Kiss, kiss

[resnonverba]

What I've never been able to find is a soft leather version of the traditional sporty tote-bag made by the likes of Nike and Adidas. The size and ease of use are ideal but sometimes one wants something smarter and of higher quality.

[MrVorpalsword]

I didn't understand the business about the pocket with the zip at the bottom and the newspaper and the magnet - would someone explain that to me please? thank you for the video. x

[smellymootgaming]

would you ever do episodes in Europe like France or Germany?

[riff]

She sounded like an American with a nice smile.