I 3D Printed a Custom Keyboard... (So you don't have to)

preview_player
Показать описание
How to 3d print a mechanical keyboard -3d printed custom keyboard that thocks!
⬇️Affiliate links to help out the channel ⬇️
Buy Any Epomaker Keyboards here

✔️Join this channel to get access to perks:

✔️ Comment what you want to see next!!!
✔️ See my about page for business inquiries

#MechanicalKeyboard #keyboard #3dprinting #tech #3dprintedkeyboard #linustechtips #bakeneko #hipyotech #hipyo #creality
Рекомендации по теме
Комментарии
Автор

⬇Affiliate links to help out the channel ⬇

HipyoTech
Автор

wow hipyo im so proud of you thank you for struggling and wasting over 30 dollars of fillament great work hipyo

nho
Автор

There are different ways you could have approached this, but for someone who isn't as experienced with 3D printing, you did well.

Caigefox
Автор

Gotta love the life of a YouTuber. "I got this very expensive thing for free and don't know how to use it. I probably won't learn how to use it because I'm not super interested in it. "

TrigTrig
Автор

I have printed multiple keyboard and I love them all. 3D printed plates are flexy and soft too, i have replaced some plates with printed ones in some of my other keyboards. I have even designed my own top mounted tkl to print and its one of my favorite boards.

ZeroZeroOne__
Автор

Your z-height looked a bit too high on there, but overall, super solid work. Especially considering you're not super versed in 3D printing. The hardest part is starting and not knowing what you don't know or how to ask. One cool thing you could have done was use the 3D pen to fill in the seam and then take a soldering iron with a flat tip to melt the plastic into the seam and then sanded it smooth. That's what I do to bond stuff together when I don't want to use glue or get rid of seam lines.

ericmacias
Автор

Overall, it came out great. Parts warping can usually be solved by increasing the bed temperature a bit (i usually do 60-65 deg C for PLA) and for parts that take up a large surface area on the print bed I usually raft them in the slicer (where the print is on a "raft" of material). Now the 2 parts being floppy is simply just a matter of tolerancing your design to tailor the 3d printer, since not every printer is super precise and exact and tolerances vary from printer to printer. Not to mention that plastics shrink as they cool down. The more you'll print the more you'll get familiar with everything! If ya got any questions feel free to ask.

DuckyWhy
Автор

Good job Nola. You're doing great, Nola. Keep it up.

Dcheck
Автор

8:30 "like it feels thick enough that its not just like a cheap plastic case that you'd get on like a red dragon..."
*me, looks down on my red dragon keyboard that i actually spend a bunch of time modyfying for that tasty click*
me: "shhhh he didnt mean it like that"

TheLastRealPanda
Автор

Ok working with an ender as a full 3dprinting noob, hats off. They are very cpapble machines but theres a WHOLE bunch of what you need to do to make them work right. I'm like 90% sure it was temps. The lack of extrusion quality and TERRIBLE layer adhesion indicates you were not printing hot enough. Teaching Tech, Makers Muse, 3-d Printing Nerd ect all have great guides on how to dial in new printers.

Hagantic
Автор

yo hipyo, thank you for preventing me from buying a 3d printer. youve saved me easily thousands of dollars at this point from saying "so you dont have to"

eeveeblazelol
Автор

Don't use glue, just clean the print bed properly with 99% isopropyl alcohol and ensure there are no draughts blowing near the printer (that's usually what causes warping).

secondcming
Автор

Wow hipyo I'm so proud of you thank you for struggling and wasting over 30 dollars of filament, great work hipyo!

kpurewaffle
Автор

Hey Hipyo, a few things to note from the footage regarding printing: Make sure your bed is leveled correctly, if you dont have an ABL probe (auto bed leveling probe) then grab a thickness gauge (pretty cheap) and set you bed to be about .07mm from the nozzle (about the thickness of a standard sticky note). This should give you a nice first layer and is the first step towards successful printing. Next there is a technique for preventing curling on the corners called "mouse ears" and I highly suggest them for prints with sharp corners or large flat printing areas. Pusaslicer makes them really easy but you can make them in most other slicers too. Finally I suggest checking your room temperature, if the room is dramatically lower than the temp as you're printing it can exacerbate the conditions which cause print curling in the first place. My printer is an Ender 6 so its not dramatically different than yours in a number of ways and touching these things up got my printer going perfectly almost every time when I was struggling. Also clean your build plate, you shouldn't need anywhere near that much glue, too much can actually get in the way. Try using a little isopropyl to thin and evenly spread the glue rather than globbing it on across the whole bed.

XeroShifter
Автор

As someone who 3D prints a bit, that case did come out quite nicely. I might build my first keyboard this way because of you :)

VoidSkyy
Автор

Wow Hipyo, I'm so proud of you. Thank you for working hard* and using* over 30 dollars of filament. Great work Hipyo!

SESAmbassadorOfBlahajs
Автор

Good job Nola, you're doing great Nola. Keep it up!

bainbridge
Автор

Good job Nola. Your doing great Nola. Keep it up!

orpheusqq
Автор

Thank you so much hipyo for making such entertaining videos!

Zxlz
Автор

good job nola! keep it up nola! also very cool keyboard! 3D printers can be so silly and finicky

RainstormCreations