How To Rebuild a KTM/Husqvarna WP Linkage Style Rear Shock

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Whether your rear shock just needs a fluid change or a full breakdown and rebuild, having the right know-how and tools can turn a daunting task into something you knock out in an hour or two. In this video, Charles shows how to rebuild and install a Race Tech Bladder Cap Kit on KTM/Husqvarna WP linkage style rear shocks.

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Thanks again for this video, I watch it once each year when I do this job!

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2:00 record previous settings
2:40 back off preload adjuster and remove bottom lock ring & spring
3:38 depressurize reservoir
4:40 remove bottom cap
5:14 depress sealhead and remove lock ring
6:00 pull out shock shaft, dump oil
6:50 remove reservoir with heat gun + strap wrench
7:40 remove nut and shock stack, clean and inspect
9:15 replace bumper, cap, topout spring, seal head, shim stack+piston
10:50 retaining nut w loctite, 29.5 ft lb
11:38 replace reservoir w red loctite using strap wrench
12:15 pre-fill part way w shock oil
12:44 replace bladder
13:36 install bladder retaining clip and pull bladder up to clip
14:08 pour oil into shock body, insert shock stack, pump out air bubbles
15:15 top off oil, press in seal head, install retainer ring
16:03 extend shock, tap in bottom cap
16:29 turn right-side up with bleed bolt at high point; open bleed bolt
18:12 install schrader valve in bladder, install valve cap, clean oil off shock
18:49 fill w nitrogen, test full self-extension without spring
19:20 replace washer on preload adjuster, spring, washer, spring retainer, retaining clip
20:00 restore preload, compression & rebound settings

youtubeaccount
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Thanks for sharing these videos, I learned how to do my Yamaha Honda and now the KTM

holeshot
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It is easy to miss this. The reservoir is replaced with the Race Tech bladder kit which has it's own reservoir tube. The OEM one does not appear to reused.

endurokpnw
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WP shock rebuild and gold valve install cheat sheet



Disassembly
1. Record shock settings (turn clockwise)
a. Spring
b. Low speed compression: clicks
clicks
d. High speed compression: turns
2. Back up all clickers and HS compression (turn counter clockwise)
3. Remove spring from shock (KEEP EVERYTHING IN ORDER!!)
a. Loosen Allen bolt securing the preload adjuster ring
b. Turn preload adjuster all the way out, loosening up the spring
c. Move spring stopper up
d. Remove lock ring (clip)
e. Take off spring stopper, washers, spring, top washer
4. Slowly remove reservoir spring
a. Release nitrogen from reservoir little by little
b. Remove bolt and O-ring
5. Clean shock
6. Remove shock cap
a. hammer down against holes using a punch
b. secure cap against shock shaft with zip-tie
7. Clean up all sand and dirt
8. Press seal head down into the shock
9. Locate retaining clip for shock seal
10. Remove clip
11. Clean again
12. Remove shock shaft
a. Place oil drain pan under vise and shock
b. Slowly work the shaft up and out of the body
c. Shock oil might spill
d. Continue to work it out slowly
e. Place shock shaft aside
13. Drain shock body off oil
14. Clean oil residue from shock body and especially the reservoir
15. Remove stickers from reservoir
16. Use heat gun to heat up threads of the reservoir
a. Loosen up Loctite on threads
17. Use strap wrench to loosen up reservoir
a. Apply more heat if it won’t come off
b. Don’t melt it!
18. Place shock body aside
19. Put shock shaft back into vise
a. Remove nut (19mm socket)
b. Remove shim stack and piston
i. KEEP EVERYTHING IN ORDER!!!
ii. Use screw driver (or any stick like object) to keep everything in order
c. Remove oil seal and small spring
d. Remove zip tie
e. Remove shock shaft cap
f. Remove rubber bumper
g. Clean and inspect shock shaft
i. Spray out holes
h. Clean other parts for reuse
i. Replace worn out parts



Assembly
1. Put shock shaft into vise
a. Threads facing up
2. Install rubber bumper
3. Install cap
a. Notice correct orientation
4. Remove top out spring from old oil seal
a. Clean spring
5. Grease new seal head inside and outside
6. Install top out spring into new seal head
7. Slide seal bullet onto shock shaft
8. Coat seal bullet and shock shaft with shock oil
9. Install new seal head and spring
a. Slowly work it down
b. Spring facing up
10. Reinstall shim stack and piston
a. Make sure all the little shims are seated correctly
11. Apply Loctite to top nut
12. Slightly tighten nut
13. Remove excess Loctite, if any
14. Torque nut to 29.5 foot pounds
15. Place shock shaft aside
16. Put shock body into vise
17. Thoroughly clean reservoir threads of any oil and dirt
18. Apply grease to bottom O-ring
19. Apply Loctite to reservoir threads
20. Install reservoir
a. Tighten with strap wrench
b. Remove excess Loctite, if any
21. Fill some shock oil into main body
a. See the oil fill the reservoir
b. Tap on top of shock body with flat hand to push air out of holes
22. Fill reservoir half way with shock oil
23. Remove cap and Schrader valve from bladder
24. Grease bladder O-ring
25. Apply shock oil to bladder body
26. Install bladder into reservoir
a. Oil MUST overflow from reservoir
b. Seal might be hard to push down into reservoir
c. Push it down far enough to reveal retaining clip groove
27. Install retaining clip
a. Make sure it is completely seated
28. Pull bladder cap up to seat against the retaining clip
a. Use suspension pump or special tool
29. Fill shock body with shock oil
a. Half ways, or a little more
30. Put shock shaft into shock body
a. Oil MUST overflow
b. Slowly work it down into the shock body
c. Pump shock shaft up and down
i. Until no more air bubble are coming up
ii. Make sure piston and shim stack is always submerged in oil
iii. Refill oil as needed
iv. Quickly press the shaft into the body to release more air
d. Top off shock body with shock oil
e. Push shock shaft down into shock body to install oil seal head
i. Push down far enough to reveal stopper ring groove
f. Install stopper ring
i. Make sure it sits right
g. Pull up shaft to extend it all the way
h. Clean oil from shaft and body
i. Install cap using a rubber mallet
31. Realign shock in vise so that bleeder screw on reservoir is the highest point
a. Make sure shaft is extended all the way
b. Make sure Schrader valve is out of the bladder
32. Loosen up and remove bleeder bolt
a. Excess oil and air bubbles will come out
33. Reinstall bleeder bolt
a. Make sure O-ring stays in place
34. Reinstall Schrader valve and cap
35. Clean shock from oil
36. Fill with nitrogen
a. Test that the shaft extends all the way on its own
b. Test valving works correctly
c. If any issues, air might still be in the system
i. Disassemble shock
ii. Repeat steps from step 21 on
37. Put shock upside down into vise
38. Install top washer
39. Reinstall spring
40. Install bottom washer
41. Install spring retainer
42. Install retaining clip
43. Adjust spring pre-load to recorded level
a. Measure spring length
44. Tighten adjuster lock ring
45. Set rebound and compression settings to recorded positions
a. Turn all the way clockwise
b. Then count the clicks turning counter clockwise

tomgruner
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what pressure do you set the nitrogen fill for the bladder?

stevepero
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What an awesome video! Thanks for sharing it!!

dainesetube
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Never mind you are installing new reservoir, I missed that part

oneduke
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What’s the point of removing the reservoir ? You are just replacing it with the race tech bladder?

oneduke
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Quick question, I'm planning on just changing the oil, so do I need to take the nitrogen filled peice all the way out? or can I just drain it from the high speed compression bolt by removing it, and fill it back up, pump it for air bubbles, etc? Thank you!

RedLightning
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Do i need to remove the gas when i want only to replace sealing ? My shock just has got spilled out, and i want to fix it.

StudioLysyMaker
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Hello, I have a question. What would happen if i put normal Air in the container. Air conists to 80% out of nitrogen so i'm asking myself if it would be possible.

dasatom
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Could you please share a link for the shrader valve?

caseywiller
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mine is a little bit leaking, is there any way to stop the leaking without opening the whole thing or paying much? its on a 2016 te 250 with 50 hours. Is this normal for 50 hours or should i be worried?

wyosfr
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Why wouldn't pressurize the bladder with a small amount of air during the bleeding process? That's how wp forks work.

lukeirmer
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Is this the same bleed procedure for the 50sx shock?

jfricke
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Where did you get the tool to remove the bladder

rossmcmurry
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Do you have to use nitrogen? Can you use a plain old air compressor?

DavidJones-pcft
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If i don't have the possibility for nitrogen i can put simply air like in the front suspension?

mrdiaforetikos
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Hi rocky mount atv I have a question. I have the stock suspension on my rm85 and I rebuilt it by filling the Reservoirs with oil then putting in the bladder is in the shock shaft. I did it and I either got air in it or not enough oil. When I took it for a ride the bladder when into the reservoir further then the c clip. Can I rebuild it the showa way? I feel like that would be easier. Thanks

aaroncrain