I'm Making an 18th Century Brunswick! -- Hooded Quilted Silk Jacket

This week, I'm making the last fit tweaks to my 18th century stays project, which was featured in two earlier videos on my channel, and because I finally have the stays right, I can start on the Brunswick jacket, which was a hooded 18th century short jacket used for travelling.

You can watch the rest of the making of the stays in these two videos:

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[LadyRebeccaFashions]

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[tessajbarnes]

I know you're stressing yourself out, but here are some facts: 1- You totally have the skillset to create your own patterns, you don't need to rely solely on sourcebooks to create historically-based garments, you know what you need to know, and can learn the rest as you go. 2- Frankly, folks in times past also just made sh*t up as they went, didn't follow their own "rules", used what they had, innovated when necessary, and frankensteined their own clothes. Extant garments are evidence of that, and surely garments that did not survive were also evidence of that, so stressing about "historical [100%] accuracy" is silly, and you know it. Get the silhouette right, using methods of the past when you can, don't worry about the rest. 3- It's not the 1800's. 4- When you sew, you sew for you. Add the pockets. Drape the thing. Chuck the pattern. And don't worry about us. We're over here, eating our popcorn, going "dang, this girl has skills and a seriously groovy figure", you could make clothes from paper sacks and we'd be impressed- so sew for you. You're going to wear it. Do you want sparkle? Add sparkle. Do you want overlocked edges? Overlock the edges. Sew for you, sew in a way that makes sense for you. Get as close as you can to 'history', but don't sacrifice your sanity or your fun. Sew for you. And 5- 100's and 100's of thousands of garments worn by real people didn't make it to "now", so I'm guessing (and I really think I'm right on this) you're probably closer than you think on constructing and patterning this outfit. Cut yourself some slack, girl. I love what you do. Consider yourself hugged by a sister-friend. Now go make some stuff up, just like our ancestors did, and have a blast doing it!

[theblerdshow]

You should try reaching out to Bianca, the Closet Historian. She can draft a pattern with her eyes closed. I think a collab with you would be awesome

[karladenton]

I think the issues with your lacing fraying is the quality of the ribbon itself. I used some of their ribbon to assemble a card box fancy and it shredded in that application, too. I would try to find some three ply cordage or maybe try a heavier grosgrain style ribbon instead of the satin style. Or maybe twill tape. Burnley and Trowbridge sells a 1/8 round cord and 1/4 twill tape.

[SherBear]

Girl, you are so incredibly talented. You need to treat your self and take a pattern draft making class and then start business making/selling a plus size 18 century dress patterns.

[sarasynfox]

Thank you for letting us see a little bit of vulnerability with struggling there. As someone who's had that level of frustration with only having my kids around to help fitting at the best of times, I get how tough it can be when it feels like nothing is coming together. Thank you for showing me I'm not alone!

Also, I love quilting, so this sounds like a project I may have to put on my list, with the insanity of quilting. Hopefully mine looks half as good as yours will!

[Eyrenni]

From someone who did draping on a not-fully-accurate-to-me dress form and did my own fitting (albeit of an 1870's natural form outfit), you're doing great. I understand your pain. You are doing great with this draping though. I hope the second part was a bit easier and less anxiety-inducing. ❤

[nixhixx]

That cranberry silk is just sooo delicious. It'll be beautiful when it's done!

[dancooper-jones]

I've never had this issue with handsewn eyelets. only with metal grommets. it could just be the quality of the ribbon, as I've used some cheap ribbons in corset mockups before, and I've had really bad fraying and breaking of the ribbons. and this was just through holes, not sesewn eyelets. but I stopped using ribbon a while ago because of the breaking and not wanting to pay out a lot of money, and not being able to afford doing that. I use round woven lacing that I buy from my frequented online corset shop, and just dye it to match the fabric, or to contrast it. but all of this is only done on corsets, since that's what I wear because I hate stays! I don't know if this helps at all. I can link the website if you want to take a look, but it is in the UK. it might give you some idea of what to look for though if that's what you want.

[theresamarie]

I have never made stays, but I have worn a couple of different pairs in reenactments. The first pair that I wore were a tad too big and I did not feel a whole lot of compression. The next pair that I wore fit me very well. There was definitely more compression (but it was not uncomfortable) and there was A Lot more bust support! The clothing historians at the reenactment said that stays should feel like a snug hug around you. While I am no expert, yours do look a little too big. Just my opinion based on my own experience. I also want to make an 18th century jacket like this so bad!

[nian]

Danish people understand English. 🙂 You can send your emails in English. English is the lingua franca within the EU, and Denmark is in the EU. Sending the email in English is probably preferred rather than using Google Translate. 😊Google Translate has a tendency to garble translations. Or, do the translation and then include the original English as well. Thanks for the video. 💖

[marytwiggs]

I'm sorry this project was so hard on you, but I'm glad to see I'm not the only one who struggles with every step sometimes on a project 😭 Years of experience and a bachelor's degree in fashion design, and I still have what feels like weekly tantrums over my projects not doing what I want them to! It looks lovely on you, worth all the frustration in my opinion!

[Miss_Distress]

I’m new to sewing, after watching a few fashion history buffs I finally decided to jump in a month ago. You have been a serious source of inspiration to me, a new sewist who’s into history and happens to have a similar build as well. Keep doing you! ❤

[Rotten_Ralph]

Two options for your lacing issues. Cheaper is boot laces for the extra tall boots, sold by the eyelet, a little more perhaps I know orchard corsets sells just the laces, in the heavy, or satin ribbon options, all intended for butterfly lacing. Not terribly expensive but more than the others burnley and trowbridge sells lacing by the yardage.

[beritschultz]

It has hooks and eyes down the front, which is butting up edge to edge. You can download the pictures in a higher quality on the site you linked. I live in Denmark and would be happy to help you, just let me know. Also, you can write to the museum in English. They will have someone who understands.

[kylejolley]

I loved how you were like I'm not sure if I'll put pockets in the you were ok... I'll put pockets in.

[therewillbecatswithgwenhwyfar]

Oof! Reach out to the other creators who have spent YEARS making clothes from that era!

Abby, Nicole, Burnley & Towbridge, etc! ❤❤❤

[pamgassman]

I made an embroidered Brunswick last year. I modified the JP Ryan Jacket for the top . I e-mailed you photos. It was not hard at all.

[pmclaughlin]

Sorry this might get long_first: love the look at the inside of your stays
I have been so waiting for this...I will never be a historical costumer but I love so much of the skill ...Ever since Scroop patterns introduced the Amelie (which I only just realized you were a tester Brava!) I have wanted something along those lines...but not historical
That Brunswick made for modern Boho bounding seemed to be it
So super excited to see the result
Also went down a rabbit hole especially regarding whether the Danish Museum piece had any connection to the fashions of the British of the time: The Queen of Denmark and Norway was Caroline Mathilde of Great Britain sister to King George...and if that's not enough, another sister married the Duke of Brunswick (Germany) According to Wikipedia, the Brunswick "surfaced" in France based on a German fashion
However, I am thinking that due to the family connection and the already early date of the Hjemmedrakt, it may be one of the first "Brunswick"
The Danish example seems to have a bodice/skirt connection that echoes the traditional folk costumes which might have later evolved to the waistcoat version
Anyway all speculation
Danish period film about the Caroline Mathilde scandal done in 2012 The Royal Affair
Can't wait to see the finished Brunswick...(love the material too.)
(BTW: it has been many many years since I was an exchange student in Denmark but even then, English was widely spoken ...for future correspondence )

[dee-annegordon]

I can relate to feeling overwhelmed at the beginning of a project. Glad you didn't give up on it. It looks like it's coming together beautifully now. That red silk is stunning.