How to Pass the Break on a Longboard | How to Surf

In this video, we go over the most effective techniques to pass the break on a longboard.

00:00 Intro
00:56 The Push Through
02:07 The Turtle Roll
03:46 The Dive Under
06:28 Key Element - Transition Time
06:51 Key Element - Sweet Spot
07:27 Tip - Channels
07:53 Tip - Time Yourself
08:24 Tip - Wait for Opportunities
08:41 About Barefoot Surf

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[barefoot_surf]

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[helloitsmehb]

Also, wait for a lull in the sets before paddling out. Every surfer should do this regardless of board type. Save your energy for the waves

[johngrey]

I'd actually always try to hold on to my board... Some guy told me to not go out if I can't hold on to my board when I started surfing. Still my #1 rule

[fee_lo]

The pivot around and take the wave to your back with your board tilted 45 up is also a good way to hold your position in medium size white water. With practice you can do It very quickly.

[timothystuart]

Never ditch your board like they tell you to do in the dive under. If anyone is near you they are going to eat your longboard. Dive under but hold on to the nose, bring it under water with you and kick your ass off. Never ditch your board. Use the first two only.

[cwdgamedev]

Two things... 1 When you turtle, the closer you hold the board to the nose, the less leverage the wave will have to rip it out of you grasp. 2 You should never ditch your board. The leash is there as a backup in case you ACCIDENTLY lose control of your board. It's not there so you can bail and endanger everyone behind you. You could seriously injure or even kill someone by just letting the wave take your board. If you are about to get hit by a big wall of white water and turtling is not going to work, you can hop off, point the board to shore, hold the leash where it meets the board, go under and bend your arm so it absorbs the pull when the wave hits. It's not painless, but it's still safer as the board will not fly around as much and will also have a faster recovery

[xyzct]

If a wave is breaking right on you, you can start the roll late, and turtle roll only "half way" so that one rail is facing skyward right when the lip hits, providing a narrower board target. But you keep rolling right at impact, which helps protect you. It's a very refined move, but it has its place in certain conditions and situations.

[oreilp]

A lot of comments here saying never let go of your board. It certainly should not be the defacto response, but sometime it is the only option. As someone who surfs longboards and mid lengths, my piece of advice to shortboarders is if there is a longboarder in the water and s/he is actively trying to paddle away from you when a closeout monster set is coming - don't paddle after them. If you don't surf longboards in big surf, you don't appreciate what the longboarder is trying to do.

[keno]

Excellent advice! Timing the sets really helped me. I also like going halfway out and waiting for cleaner water. It's much easier to wait than to struggle through waves.
Ditching your board is the worst option. When you ditch your board, the leash will stretch as it pulls on your leg. The board might come back to you quickly, so make sure you cover your head. It might also hit someone, so be especially careful. Have fun!

[w.coast_piano]

I’ve found that when I’m long boarding when a bigger wave is coming putting your weight on the back will obviously make the wave go under u. And if it’s bigger it’ll throw your board up and or make u roll backwards. Which obviously for bigger waves turtle roll tends to be the best option. But I’ve found that actually moving forward pushing your nose doing will make you and your board just go straight through the wave

[SDxl]

Great Video!
Beginners should know that its not good to hold the board between themself and a breaking wave while walking out. Longboards offer so much volume the wave just takes you with the board flying back to the beach. I met a person taking bad knee problems from a accident like that.

[RexRaven]

Great tutorial - so clear and detailed with great underwater images. Thank you!

[stevejohnson]

Great video tutorial. The camera work and instructions are gerally really effective. My only criticism is the bit about throwing the board away and relying on legrope. Looks ok at this break with no one around but when its a surfschool and they are close together...carnage. Thanks

[sigalfamily]

If you are punching through the wave on your stomach, it really helps to sort of caterpillar your whole body off the board so that more of the water passes through. If you're going to turn turtle, it helps to have a little wax on the rails near the nose to improve your grip.

A few other techniques: You can actually duck dive a lot of longboards just before the wave breaks by knifing through at a 45 degree angle. And rather than ditch your board, point the nose toward shore and grab the leash near the plug (or if you have enough time, flip the board over so the water passes over the convex bottom, but watch the fin...). If you're facing moderate-size whitewater, rather than ditch, get off the board, reach across the nose and cradle the board under your arm as you sink the nose. This works in more waves than you might think, but hang on tight to the opposite rail. Another clever move is to sit on the board, sink the tail so the nose sticks up. Swing the board around as the wave breaks so you sort of slice through the face. Saves a lot of energy.

Finally, and this is a really old school technique (pre leash): If you're faced with a wall of whitewater, paddle like hell toward it, jump up on your board and kick it over the whitewater as you jump straight down. If you do it right, the board will clear the whitewater and you can swim to it after you surface...but obvs don't do this with a lot of people around, or in an onshore wind, as much can go wrong...last point: if you really, really have to ditch in the face of a breaking wave, make sure the board isn't perpendicular bc the lip can guillotine it...

[glodaily]

This video is wonderfully done. Very thorough for a total novice like me.

[retribution]

That was a great video. Best is good timing. I always ditch my board but get a massive tug on my ankle, now injured, from the leash. Holding onto the leash strap really helps prevent that. I wish we could develop a better method.

[Kokoschka-urll]

Playgounds at Nusa Lembongan...best beginner wave and also barreling on big days.

[marcmywords]

When you dive under you can easily grab your boards leash attachment whilst dipping under a wave (unless its huge), that keeps the board right by you

[MRdinozzo]

Fantastic video, I saw one error I do during the turtle roll, can't wait to try now!!! Thanks guys!!!

[novaxela]

Wish more people saw this, nothing scarier than a rogue surf board flying at you. Using the Surfers ski lift (the rip at the edge of the break) is my go to, witg caution obviously, it means you have to negotiate currents and often rocks