Holley 750 cfm 4160 (3310-4) Rebuild. Part # 2

Parts are in and now it's time to assemble this Holley 4160. Note: One thing I didn't do is spray WD-40 on the bolt holes, make sure you do this it helps when it's time to rebuild the carb again. The next video will be installing and tuning it for the sbc 327 on the run stand. If you like this video please hit the like and subscribe button. Thanks!

[aarvolaredonjunior]

Great videos and teaching how to rebuild with simple tools not a million dollar carb toolbox with every$100 tool for carbs you can imagine. Thanks

[vincewarner]

Thanks Ronnie, no junk, just getting it done. Finished my first 750.
Did have to take the choke back off to get the middle screw in of the secondary diaphragm housing. Good idea to take photos of anything unusual. My choke idle advance was different and took 30 or 40 minutes to sort out. Very good thank you!

[ehguy]

Well, no numbers now, but I am about your age. In my late teens I ran a 1966 chev big block on the street and the drag strip. The engine was rebuilt by a local competent race tuner/driver that owned a service station a few miles from where I lived. Some Summer evenings we could actually hear his V/Dragster running up in one of the service bays of his garage. That first Summer I learned A Lot about how much some mechanics knew and how little others did know. The engine was solid lifters 12.5/1 compression ratio. Yes, Premium gas would take up to 36 degrees timing and not knock. That was awesome. Started out with a 780 cfm vac secondary Holley carb. The vacuum secondary had a choke and was used to stop the engine by pulling the choke hard when the TH 400 was in gear and the key turned off. I relate to your power valve advise. As when I got the car with rebuilt big block I could not get the engine to idle worth stink! I bought a hard to find book may have been the Holley 4160 or 41xx books and then a whole new world opened up. The rebuilder had a power valve installed that was opening always as the best vac reading I could ever get was 6in/mercury as I recall. With the right size power valve the engine idled quite well. I later upgraded the engine to an 850 DPumper but I kept that 780 and still have it in my closet and take it out a time or two to just recall the magic of it all. When racing was affordable, pump fuel was Good, and the police might even cut you a break now and then.

[ridered]

I'm at work so I will watch later but I have to rebuild the same carb. Thank you Sir! Just subbed

[RIDING]

GREAT VIDEO RON. LAST CARB I REBUILT WAS A QUADROJET 4 BARRELL SO I CHECKED OUT YOUR VIDEO JUST TO BE SAFE. LOOKS LIKE I WILL BE OK. BEST CLEARLY EXPLAINED VIDEO EVER. THANKS AGAIN. WILL B LOOKING FOR MORE VIDEOS FROM YOU. TAKE CARE.

[RichardMLowe]

New Subscriber
like what you done on the previous video on Muratic Acid Dip

[TheCanadianBubba]

Thanks for this 👍see that I am missing the inner plate for the secondary metering. Bought the carb off craigslist.

[blkcoupequattro]

I got a couple 3310-1's, used one to make a special build using a 1850 600cfm main body which is altered to accept the larger throttle plate from the 3310. The benefit of the smaller carb mainbody helps out with low end as I've got a 289 engine with a hot cam, and big valves, ported heads. I've run the 780cfm 3310-1 she runs little better in the upper end, but prefer the smaller carb around town. Oh yea appreciate your service for our country, keep them videos coming.

[fullthrottlekindaguy]

Thanks for the content. You’re squared away and like your style. You get things done. Reminds me of my time while I was in the service staying organized getting things ready for action. I added your page, it’s motivating for me.

[chjp]

At 23:12 you say a 4.5 power valve comes on quicker than a 6.5 when actually a 4.5 power valve stays closed longer and opens only after 4.5 vacuum is reached. A 6.5 opens sooner than 4.5 power valve. Thanks for the video!

[longBowHunterII]

Mr Ronnie thank you for this video. very well done god bless

[online]

Some of these carbs did not use a back plate and a back plate gasket underneath of the secondary metering plate. They make a conversion kit that allows you to add a back plate and back plate gasket. Without the back plate and the second back plate gasket sometimes the rear gasket will swell and affect how the fuel flows through that metering plate. Holley did this in the later years to save a little bit of money.

[rphe]

Used the MFF expression thousands of times, I did get a chuckle out of it

[MrGrey-nosn]

I hope your doing good Ronnie! I enjoy your videos alot and hope u keep making them. I find all your videos useful and cool! Your like meant to be on camera so please don't stop the content lol. And thank you for your service! My 70 camaro would be all jacked up if I didnt stumble upon your holly tear down video so thank you! Also. I lived in Oklahoma 2 times and couldn't stand the heat. How do you guys do it?? Im in back in nebraska now but my x finace stayed in Oklahoma. I tell her all the time. Yall crazy to live there ha ha

[macho]

At time 15:51 . . . Where the plastic needle would go is a little ball with a thin strip of wire keeping it in place. As a reminder I have a Marine carburetor. Is the little rubber needle necessary? . .
Thanks again for the guidance and money saving tips!

[alancoles]

Hey mate. Great vid only it finished before you finished the rebuild. Was hoping to see more of the Vac Sec Diaphragm assembly as you skipped that on the pull-down vid. I take it I just undo the 4 screw in the lid and swap out the diaphragm?

[rickmorgan]

Thanks Ronnie, your video was very helpful, I'm not done yet, coming in an out of the shop to house to follow assembly
But I got a question?
When removing, assembly, on fuel inlets into front and back fuel bowl.
I removed nut- then metal washer-then was the filter-then spring
There wasn't a paper gasket in the bottom of either bowl
My carb was brand new- just disassemble because I didn't start my project truck much, I think got clogged, gummed up with bad gas, it set for a year and half.
Anyways were you drop the paper gasket down inside there's not even a flat spot inside there where a washer would even sit where the spring sets it's kind of oblong in the spring is catching on 3/4 around but I don't see how a paper washer would even sit in there and like I said when I took it apart it was basically brand new carburetor and there wasn't any on either one

[cs-]

I have a Holley 4160 "Street Avenger" 670 cfm that I will do a first-time rebuild kit on it and just wondering if I need any special tool or tools in the process?

[plugger]

Ronnie thanks so much for this video. I am definitely a novice, but I’m learning every day. So far I have managed to rebuild my C6 automatic, install a new timing set and water pump on my 460, swap in a 410 rear end, wire in new gauges, and about a half a million other things that keep adding up. I’ve got some other plans in the near future and rebuilding my carb is one of them. I have this exact carb but the previous owner bent the throttle linkage for whatever reason and now it’s kind of loose. I noticed that quick fuel has a replacement throttle shaft with kickdown linkage for the fords. Mine doesn’t have the kickdown now so I was thinking that would be good to swap that out and fix my loose throttle linkage at the same time. You ever swap out the throttle shafts when you’re rebuilding these? Any chance of a how-to video? Again, thanks so much. Excellent videos like yours are what help newbies like me be able to do stuff like this. Thank you for your service!

[johnc]

Ronnie I have a question for you I recently got a vacuum secondary carburetor just like the one you working on where the scorer goes there was no needle and seat there was just a ball bearing what would you suggest

PS awesome video I watched your disassemble or the parts I will be putting it together this weekend