We Test 3 Ways To Set A Fence Post (1 Winner)

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Ever wondered which method is the best way to set a fence post? Today we test them all: wet set concrete, dry pack concrete, and fence post foam (along with a secret bonus method).

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[althomas]

72 year old farmer here, if the post is permanent I put one bag of concrete in the hole and dump a bucket of water in, fill the rest with the dirt that comes out of the hole, I have a treated lumber fence that's 30 years old and is still in great condition.

[Matthew-vmqi]

Why am I watching a 20-minute video about fence posts? Oh well, glad there are guys out there doing experiments to test best practices.

[marion-bsqh]

Wooden posts nearly always snap at ground level. This is not only the point of maximum leverage but also where oxygen, soil and water all come together to promote rot. I always set the post in concrete, domed to shed water but also give the post lower part three coats of bituminous paint first, up to 6" above ground level to protect against rain backsplash. I also give the join between the post and the domed concrete an extra coat of bitumen after the concrete has gone off to seal it. Plus, I put a wooden post cap on the top of post to protect the end grain. 20 years service is possible here in the UK doing it this way. It depends on the quality of the post wood too though I supposed, there's more fast-grown post timber around nowadays, wide growth rings = lower strength.

[willierants]

One of the best options is stone pack around the post. Step 1. Place the post Step 2. Pour in the stone (angular, jagged stone) Step 3. Tamp it down Step 4 done and your posts will last 2x as long because the water drains away. Concrete acts like a sponge holding the moisture up against the wood.

[OGstonerD]

Haven’t heard the term “dirt clod” in 40 years. Dirt clod wars ruled my childhood. Thanks for the memory trip.

[StringDriver]

A compliment coming from a craftsman…You are among the very very few people on YouTube who are not completely full of baloney and I totally appreciate the way that you have filmed, the way that you talk. And the fact that you’re actually working. All of it very well done thank you. Someone who has done work in the trades can easily identify people who know what they’re doing and they can identify people who don’t know what they’re doing. Please don’t become a self worshiping, YouTube rockstar, and then change the format of what you’re bringing. Keep it REAL. 👍🏼

[StarsBright]

My house was built in 1996 and the fence posts were drilled and set with a pre-mixed concrete. I have replaced the fencing four years ago and all the posts were still solid and therefor used again. My (engineer) neighbor was not keen on the dry mix but is now happy we went that way due to cost savings and long life. No screws or nails were added.

Great video full of very good information. Thanks.

[gregs]

We do a combo between dry set and wet set. We pour the dry concrete in the hole to about 4 to 6 inches below the ground level and add about 1 or so gallons of water per bag of concrete. No mixing required and sets up beautifully

[bushwackcreek]

A old fence builder who has since passed hand-dug all his corner post holes to 4 feet... in caliche (here in Texas). He had a special shovel he'd inherited from his father called a "telegraph spoon". Use a digging bar, post hole digger, a sardine can and finally that telegraph "spoon", he could dig and clean out a 12" diameter hole. He'd set the post with tamping alone and they've been doing fine for 40+ years. Here in the Texas Hill Country, caliche soils are superb for road base and long-lasting fences.

[michaelschmitt]

Back in 1963, I worked for a fence company called Anchor Fence. Their residential chain link fence posts were anchored with a galvanized steel shoe bolted to the post about 6” below the grade. Two galvanized steel angles were driven at 45 degree angles into the ground. After they were driven, the galvanized shoe was tightened to the post. It was a much stronger hold and allowed us to install a fence completely in one day.

[GZQCArtwork]

We planted lots of Wooden post fencing, never used Concrete its a pain to remove when the post rots off.!
Instead you use small stones, and a good heavy tamper to solidify the soil around it in stages. Lasts for years and allows for drainage. The wood still rots off in the same time, but no old Concrete to have to remove. The results are just as sturdy. Makes replacement easy.

[normanherrick]

I love that this randomly showed up in my recommends

[danhunik]

I recently mixed over 50 bags of that concrete mix. The number 1thing i found to get a consistent mix is to measure your water volume. This gives you a perfect mix every time. Also if you have any amount to mix get a small mixer and it will save you a lot of time and effort.

[ksingleton]

While working for a Concrete Foundation contractor 45 years ago, I was tasked with pouring a footer for a Basement. On Friday we set the forms in the bottom of an eight foot deep hole. On Saturday and Sunday it rained and fill the hole and turned it into a pond. On Monday morning we were tasked with pumping all the water out before the Cement Trucks arrived at 10:00 AM. We got all but 2 feet out and the trucks pulled up. We poured the Concrete where we set the forms which were under water. On Tuesday we finished pumping out all the water and there was the Footer full of Cement and Hard. I was 18 years old and was amazed that the concrete had set up under water. My boss told me Concrete will get harder if it is kept wet while curing, thus the reason Concrete is Mixed with Water. Using No Mix Concrete does not mean not to use water, it only means you do not need to mix.

[pollodustino]

I'm astounded at the engineering and technology behind fence posts now. When I replaced my back yard fence I did the wet-mix method of pouring in a bag of redi-mix and adding water while I held the post steady. Worked fine but I see there's room for improvement.

Thanks for showing the different methods, it's been very informative.

[janetbent]

Personal experience by an old lady DIY. I'm north of the Pacific Northwest on Vancouver Island in BC Canada (think pretty warm/pretty moist). I sunk 4" pt posts in a well drained area and used wet concrete, leaving a 4" collar at the top that I filled with dirt. They were good for about 20 years but eventually rotted off. The fence in the front, same posts/concrete leveled to the ground and they're still solid after 35 years. Gotta take all the different conditions into consideration. Thanks SWiFence, I enjoyed watching the experiment!

[blh]

I set 3) PT 4x4 posts in concrete for a quick fence/screen at my own home. Within 3-4 weeks, the posts twisted almost 45 degrees and tore the vinyl fence panel brackets right of the post/rails. Last time I used wood posts. Lesson learned. Thanks for the videos!

[davehiebert]

Here in BC Canada I've always dig the hole 36"-42"and put about 6" of 3/4" clear crushed in the bottom of the hole, set our post then using a long 2 x 4 as a ram we pack the post with 3/4" clear, . Always provides the most study post and if the frost moves it, it's very easy to shake and pack it back into place. I've removed 30 year old treated fence post installed this way and the post just about always comes out in tact with very minimal decay. Much easier method that provides lasting results

[ifandwhen-klcr]

Where I live the frost line can get as deep as 4 feet. Here’s the process:
1. Auger 12” holes to a depth of 6 feet.
2. Pour 3 bags worth of mixed sakrete in the empty hole. (The purpose of the concrete is to prevent downward settling.)
3. Drop in the post.
4. Fill the rest of the hole with gravel while tamping.
Done. The gravel acts as a sleeve, allowing the ground to heave without taking the post with it.

[pvbarbell]

As a farmer I've put in a lot of posts. For a heavy fence or gate I use a 6x6 post in a 12 inch auger hole 4 feet deep. I use 2x4's to create an 18 inch square form at the top, 4 inches above ground level. Fill it with concrete to the top of the form and slope the concrete away from pole so water drains away. Never had frost heaves or other issues, and it looks good. I would never put dirt around a wood post as it will rot away with the bugs in the soil, especially with the new "pressure treated" crap they sell nowadays. One of my fences is over 35 years old with no issues.