(How not) to install a metal roof

#metalroofinstallation #metalroofs #metalroofingdonewrong

How not to install a metal roof.

Metal roofing. How not to install a metal roof.
Metal roofs are not made to be installed like this.
Metal roofing done wrong.
Metal roofing is not made to be installed on top of shingles. If you install a metal roof over shingles you will need to install 1x4 strapping.

Check out the video below.You won’t believe what we found underneath this metal roof.

Metal roof installation gone wrong.

Link to this video you can share with your friends

Drew’s Roofing And Home Repair 910-845-2207

[Drewsroofingandhomerepair]

This is a worst metal roof then the one you’re looking at now

[jtltet]

Loose screws and missing screws are the problem. You do NOT add mastic or cement at the laps per the manufacturer. There should be closures at the bottom and top but that isn't likely leading to any leaks.

[thompsona]

We have a metal roof that was installed about 100 years ago. Ugly as sin but that bugger is still working. No screws back then. All the nails were driven and then followed up with a glob of hot lead mashed over it. Pretty neat to see how it used to be done back then :)

[kadinhendrickson]

This guy may not know what to do down to the exact step, but it’s his problem solving and willingness to admit when he’s wrong, that I look up to. I would have zero doubts that he could provide me an excellent service as a roofer.

Anyone notice the lack of “how to” videos on YouTube when it comes to roofing?

May or may not be due to the lack of skilled roofers who know how to problem solve, ask for help, trace leaks, and provide honest, cost worthy help.

I’d hire this guy any day. An older dude providing content like this on YouTube that I can learn from and use his help to help my own business as a young rookie roofer/framer. Props. At least he stands behind his work and isn’t afraid to show what most homeowners are left with.

[rickywright]

Thank you guys for doing these type of videos. The average homeowner trusts their contractors, and thanks to yall, it shows alot of them can't be trusted. The previous homeowner or their insurance company probably paid a premium price for a shitty job!!

[beauxhargrove]

I have been in the manufacturing side of the metal roofing industry since 2010. Depending on the pitch of the roof, lap sealant may not be necessary. Building code requires lap sealant for non-soldered seam metal roofing systems if the pitch is less than 3:12. Moreover, the minimum pitch for a metal roofing system with non-soldered seams is 1.5:12. Parts of this roof look like the panels were installed on an acceptable pitch such that lap sealant was not required, however, the building code is a minimum. Lap sealant is never recommended against. Another big problem with this roof installation is that the screws are not applied to a solid substrate, such as furring strips or decking. This means that if the screws are not long enough, they will not hold consistently. Furthermore, if the panels were installed directly over top of shingles without any kind of barrier, the warranty on the metal panels is voided due to the constant abrasion of the shingles against the underside of the panel. Additionally, without furring strips, there is no air gap, and all the heat conducts straight through the metal panel to the shingles, meaning that the energy savings you ordinarily get from a metal roof aren't there. The closures are not always necessary, especially if venting through the ridge, although depending on the climate zone, attic ventilation may not be advisable.



Another set of problems here has to do with the trim and flashing. There should be a piece called a pitch break or transition between the two different pitches on the roof. The trim used on the gables does not look like any proper gable trim I've ever seen, it looks instead like an eave trim installed upside down.

[grahamwheeler]

I am a full time professional metal roofer. There are a number of problems with this roof.

(1) The Ridge-cap is missing seals. This is likely the #1 problem. If the roof was vented at the ridge, or a shingle-vent was removed and left open, the leak could have been caused by blowing water up under the ridge, and down the steel.
(2) The likely second likely leak is inadequate -underlayment. A steel roof requires adequate underlayment. This can be done by either stripping the shingles and installing new underlayment, or if the shingles are not too far gone (no leaks), steel can be installed over shingles. The reason for this is because condensation can form under the steel, drip down the roof, and cause a leak. Depending on the roof this amount of water can be minimal, but a roof needs to accommodate this water. If a roof is well ventilated the occasional "cup" of condensation is easily evaporated away.
(3) The loose and missing screws can be a leak point, but based on the description on the video being that it came during a strong blowing wind, it appears that #1 is the likely primary issue. Yes screws need to be snug "just right" however, I expect this was a secondary issue with this leak, but does show the level of quality by the installer.
(4) Mastic/seam tape-/overlap. Overlap seams seals are often thought as required by folks, however it depends on the steel profile. I install a similar looking profile of steel shown in this video, and the profile has what is called an "anti-siphon" shape under the overlap. This is intended to be installed with no mastic on the overlap if the roof has an adequate pitch, and with lower pitches (such as what is shown below the pitch change), this requires a seam tape/seal. If installed properly the main portion of the roof normally would not require seam tape. However There are two basic ways a roof can be secured: screws on the flat, and screws on the rib. Many folks prefer screws on the flat as jogs - in a screw line are not easily seen, where as screws on the rib when installed consistently, produce a perfect line looking up at the roof, and highlight the quality of the install: this is one of the reasons I prefer this install method: as we aim for quality work. I will comment on the "bent pieces" of overlapped steel. This appears to be a manufacturing defect that I've seen before. Sometimes the rollers at the factory produce a "wrinkle" at just that spot. It does not reflect on the skill/quality of the installer but on the manufacturer of the steel panels. They need to adjust the roller spacing at the overlap rib. This is a periodic problem with rolled steel panels that may require adjusting at a factory once or twice a year depending on the methods used to secure the rollers. There are particular situations where even on a steep roof seam tape is recommended. In particular in snow belts above a valley or where there is risk of drifting snow. Part of the reason for this is that accumulating snow can form an ice-dam and then get under the rib-overlap. On windswept roofs this is not typically an issue, and plays a factor in both roof materials and truss design, depending on regional weather design criteria. When snow guard / snow stop is used in an area where there is an ice dam-risk seam tape should also be used. Ice buildup on a residential steel roof, is typically an indication of poor insulation in the attic, and poor ventilation under the steel in the area where the area of ice is forming.
(5) The pitch change is not installed correctly. A piece of "pitch change" flashing (sometimes called "over-under" flashing) should be used. With this flashing it is installed Under the upper roof and over the lower roof. Two strips of seals are required between the flashing and the upper roof and below the flashing and above the lower roof. Depending on the seal material, caulking is recommended above the seal product, and also between the multiple pieces of flashing.

I think I've written enough for now...just a few comments on the issues noted with this roof.

[jasonwebb]

Also, as long as roof pitch is 4/12 or above, no sealant is required under laps as long as it is, like you said, properly installed. Overhangs should be at least 2 to 3 inches at minimum

[Gillslayer]

Seems as though somebody who had done the roof in the first place may have had more loose screws than the roof. Good work fellas, nice to see the he thoroughly inspected and repaired product!

[TripAMD]

I've never put mastic on any lamp, ever. Does it make the light brighter?

[jasonstarr]

I've done a few metal roofs in my time, but I only count what I've learned and not how good I am. Still, I try to learn from those who do know, and here's what I can contribute. First, I was taught to use sticky tape (that's what I've always called it) anytime I lap two pieces together. So, all the roofs I've done had sticky tape to seal at the laps. Second, I use rubber closures where possible or manufacture "Z" closures where I can and need to. For example, on a hip roof which was going to have high visibility, I used aluminum flashing to create custom fitted closure strips on the ridge cap. They were a booger to get right, but came out looking great. For the overhang, I have done both with and without closures, depending on two things. One, if I'm going to be putting on gutters that are specifically created to go with R-Panel (which is what I've always used), then I go with a 2" overhang, then the gutters effectively cover the edge so no closure strips needed. Two, if non-specific gutters are used or no gutters at all, then I use closure strips. Learning how to install gutters was a real learning adventure, and I think I have something about that on my channel from a recent roof I did at home on my back deck. Ok, another thing about screws. If the metal is going over shingles, I ordered the longest self-drilling, self-tapping screws I could find. I ordered a pack of 1000 from Zoro's for about half the price I'd have paid anyplace else. I think they were like 2 3/8" or something like that. In one case of going over shingles, I put down 2X4's ever 4' on center, then filled the gaps with sheets of 3/4" foil-faced foam. Then I put the screws into the 2X4's. Looking at the screw pattern on the metal roof you showed, I tend to overdo, but considering that the panels are 3 sections, each one 1' wide, I put 2 screws in each outside section and one in the middle, with a line of screws every four feet (unless my purlins are closer or farther apart than that). At the outside edge, I put three screws per each 1 foot section. I suppose that's overkill, but while we are only in about a 70-80 mph wind area, I'd really rather put extra screws than find my roof in the neighbor's yard. Finally, everything I've been taught is to use both the sticky tape, AND screws on the lap. Again, I tend to overdo, with a screw about every 18", but have been known to slip back to one ever four feet, depending on the length of the run. Oh, on gutters, I found a really great gutter installation video done by an instructor at a junior college. I modified what he did and it made it possible for me to single-handedly install a 30 foot section of the R-Panel type gutters. The seams were super solid. Great video, sorry for the length of my commentary. Blessings and keep up the great work.

[jonathonhilton]

Here is a good question, ive been roofing for 21 years, in Canada we put the screws on the ribs "high points" if you put screws in the high points 1 water dont run down it and hits the screw just gets the rain, 2 if you put the screws in the "high points" you dont need to cement your laps becase the screws keep it super tight together, any metal roof ive done never heard of any problem of them, we also use enclosures at top and bottom.

[galbavy]

Lap cement? We use screw where I come from

[tomcockerill]

I'm from New Zealand and I would say that the building codes are quite different between NZ and USA, we would put the roofing screws on the top of ridging as water runs down the valleys of the metal.

[aleksandarteodosijevic]

can help in my country in serbia no one puts safs on the lower surface of the sheet metal everyone puts it on the ridges and everyone tells me that the sheet metal is quickly falling apart due to the flow of water, , I wonder if according to the specification of sheet metal installation as in your video in the lower surface, when I mention it in my point of sale, they think I'm crazy

[richardbedard]

I didn't see you remove any screws, but I'm willing to bet they were'nt long enough to reach through the shingles to wood.

[anthonytodd]

exposed fastener roof systems are for barns and dog houses

[rickyelliott]

Hi drew, Very good video. I wanted to add that lap cement is not a necessity for these master rib/panel-loc systems if installed correctly. The closures near the bottom are also not a necessity. While closures near the top are great If the installer were to use wider ridge cap the closures would not be needed. Not having the closures wilth a wider ridge will help the house vent more efficiently. Most importantly even though the manufacturer will recommend installing the screws in the flat section, I strongly advise installing in the rib with longer screws to remove them from the path of water flow. There defiantly needed to be transition metal on that roof as well.

[FlymasterFlash]

My guess would be the ridge. missing screws isn't good but there is more going on than that,

[chunker]

Hey Drew I need a roof and some remodel work but I'm way down here in Tampa, we may have to fly you down. Heck, I'd even buy the plane ticket. I was just about to have a master rib roof put on but after seeing this vid I'm back to the shingle. I don't see how the screws can possibly stay tight in the long run