Bluing Steel Parts Tutorial

We're bluing some of the steel parts on Copperhead and decided to show how easy the process is.

00:00 Intro
00:27 Requirements
01:38 Part Preparation
02:43 Cleaning the Parts
03:20 Applying the Solution
04:27 Rinsing the Parts
04:53 Drying the Parts
05:04 Oiling the Parts
05:45 Finished Parts!

[jimhovater]

I have found that if you heat the parts up with a blow-dryer BEFORE applying the bluing solution, a more uniform, deep finish is acquired.

[mattphipps]

Thank you for this. I've watched several other cold-bluing videos and they really don't explain anything as easily and clearly as you do.

[thegrassyknoll]

Just cold blued an Old Air rifle and it went Perfect, this tutorial is just good and simple, and it worked just like magic

[joeflosion]

I just had my first experience re-blueing my firing pin and some retaining pins inside the bolt of my rifle so I can see the wear pattern better in the future. Your tip of letting it soak in oil for a bit made a huge difference, thank you!

[ardevenuta]

You are the best I've seen, instructional speaking. Explaining along the way, the simple, straight forward method, including the oil at the end. I've used this stuff before, I've never wire-wheeled it. Later today, I'm going to try it on a Taurus G2C. Wire wheel to oil. It certainly appears that this will bring this archaic relic into the 21st century.

[richrock]

I find that if you clean the part with acetone, heat in a 350° oven for 45min, clean with acetone again, heat to around 250°, apply 1 coat of bluing, let dry, reheat to 250° reapply bluing then heat once again and apply a thin coat of oil such as WD40 or gun oil, you will get a heavier and more durable finnish that will last for years with regulat coats of light oil

[ericspidell]

I just did this on a Ruger 1022 I am restoring and it looks amazing! Thank you for the tutorial!

[mikejones]

I've used cold blue for decades, and am very satisfied with the results.

[francisrucker]

One thing not mentioned is the FACT that the biggest contributor to the finish is the surface prep. The better you prep, the better your results will be. Buff that part!

[chrismcrae]

Nice video, I heat the parts before bluing at 185 for an hour to cook all the moisture out before oiling and I tend to use 90 w oil or grease then heat with a torch to melt the grease into any pits or pores. Wipe off when cool then coat with regular oil

[Petalumination]

Thanks for this helpful, clear video! I used it to darken and dull the finish of a couple of shiny steel gate latches, because the glare off of them was giving my wife migraines whenever she looked at them. I decided to skip the last step with oil, since the dull finish was preferred.

[madewithscraps]

I use this method and have been fortunate to match factory bluing on most firearms with this product. The best discovery I have found is the use of Denatured Alcohol over/instead of Acetone. Initially I use Acetone, followed with a concentrated Simple Green mix, with the Denatured Alcohol for final cleaning shortly before the bluing. Use of Denatured Alcohol would eliminate those light spots on this metal. Thanks for the nice, well explained video.

[steveh]

Very nice concise demonstration of cold bluing! And, as usual, very high production values make watching a pleasure.

[fookingsog]

I acquired an Ontario M9 bayonet from a flea market that needs a bit of fixin' up!!! Already ran the parts through the ultrasonic cleaner and now soaking them in some Evapo-Rust overnight. Probably will scrub really well with a nylon toothbrush afterwards as I don't want to damage the original finish too much!!! Then probably wipe down with acetone & dry. Gun Blue will go on after that...maybe do a pre-heat. After the Gun Blue application, my final oil of choice will be Lanolin aka "Wool Wax" which is super tenacious and protects really well!!! I just wipe down with a piece of suede leather that has been impregnated with Lanolin. Wiped a Morakniv Garberg down with Lanolin as a test, and it looks *AMAZING!!!*

[barry]

Nice and thanks, I tried it decades ago when haste was a close friend! I now realise and have been aware for a while any surface finish is very dependent on preparation. I got similar results but definitely a bit more ‘blotchy’

[mleys]

I finally got to cold blueing the top of my double coocker who has an exposed steel surface on half of the surface with the possibility of placing a wok on an intense burner. I was sick and tired of having rust and residual rust black speckles on that surface. So I just sanded the surface, applied the acetone and cold blued it. Now I will keep the oil on until this evening. Happy with this tutorial. Thanks.

[risenfromyoutubesashesagai]

Cold blue is amazing. I built a shoulder strap jig for one of my 15s, and for a brief second thought about using paint on one of the chrome looking links. I caught myself and went to the cold blue and INSTANTLY got the results I was needing and wanting. Don't have to worry about it rusting or paint wearing off now. Also had a rifle suffering some minor barrel rust, and I sanded the spots down and re-blued them. They havnt re-rusted since.

[eCitizen]

Thank you for the concise and thorough explanation of the process of using this product. It looks like the results I am looking for. :)

[TEXASPATRIOT]

The easiest and most informative way I’ve found yet. Thanks!🙏🏼
Stay safe!
❤️🇺🇸👊🏼

[EveryTongue]

Thank you for clearly presenting the most effective way to get good results