Scariest thing I've ever done... Lead Climbing

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In this episode I strive to make the next progression in my climbing journey by attempting outdoor leading for the first time. Lead climbing outdoors is a scary step for a beginner climber, but I found there were a number of ways to work around the fear.
Current climbing experience: 199 days

Cinematography, thumbnail design, belayer, logistics: @Kim_Norrie
Advice, belayer and "fix Mike's mistakes": Toby Tee

[Allen_lena]

Holy shit, Mike Boyd collabing with Pete Whittaker, now we can say that you've officially joined the ranks of "Climbing Youtube", going along with one of the greats! Seems superfun (even if trad looks scary af)!

[maleknecibi]

I've been an avid climber for a few years now, here are my thoughts:
- If the Ohm isn't too uncomfortable for you as the leader, go ahead and use it. The only time I'd recommend against it is on sketchy Trad, as the increased forces can cause a weak placement to pop sooner
- Ignore anyone that says a stick-clip is cheating. They objectively make climbing safer, so if anyone gives you a funny look tell them to go climb trad or free solo if they have such a hard on for danger. Loads of people use them regularly, especially here in the states, and they can also be handy for other things like bailing, so just keep using it.
- IMPORTANT: That Red BD Rope you purchased in your haul isn't rated as a Single Rope. 7.9mm is far too thin alone for Sport Climbing, so DO NOT USE IT. Thankfully it looks like you're actually climbing on a proper rope in the later climbing shots, so I guess you were already corrected on that by someone (looks like a Mammut Crag classic, good choice)

[pedropesserl]

I just love how supportive and encouraging Kim is, while also being concerned about Mike's health and safety all the time. She's probably one of the main reasons why he's able to do all of these awesome things

[thecma]

My contribution to the conversations: I noticed that you often pull a lot of slack when clipping so you can reach higher. This is fine if you're at a good stance, but, in general, you want to climb to where the next bolt is in your face/chest region. This seems scarier, but reaching for a high clip takes longer and puts a ton of slack in the system, so you're quite vulnerable in that moment, especially at the second/third bolt.

Its awesome that you share this journey, mistakes and all! Huge fan of that.

[finbarshields]

"I just can't understand why you'd risk decking out if you don't have to" so great seeing this perspective. It's odd that in the climbing culture it's seen as "uncool" to use something like a clipstick. Bravo for normalising it. Safety is cool. Walking is cool. Being alive is cool.

[nattman]

He’s just out here doing everything everyone has ever wanted to do and I love it

[ilir]

A couple things to note that I didn't hear him mention if you want to try this as well.

1. Taking a Lead certification class to learn about back clipping, z-clipping, and back stepping (among other risks while climbing) should be done before lead climbing
2. Going outdoors with an experienced climber is a good idea when starting (Which he did during the video)
3. Knowledge of cleaning routes (Getting your gear back) may be needed when climbing outdoors.

There are a great deal of videos online where you can learn how to go outside and this video was awesome.

[andydt]

12:59 she’s belaying too far from the wall, so gets dragged forwards rather than just up. Also, most climbing walls will have sandbags around to use as a ground anchor if there’s a big weight difference between the climber & belayer

[TepidWater]

Shout out to Kim with how she reacted after the first fall on the lead attempt, now that's some genuine love and care

[mikelarin]

As a climbing guide and instructor, I am quite enjoying this journey. Its one I get to witness often, but always makes me so happy to see.
As for the stick clip, f@$k the haters, go home safe. The only reason we lead is to get a rope up in the first place. When I take people outdoors that have learned to lead in the gym, I try to tamper their mindset of "top rope isnt real climbing" get the rope up. having fun is real climbing.
Now that's not to say leading isnt an important part of the sport, its huge and can be a ton of fun too. But going home at the end of the day is the most important part.
As for the ohm, use it. It's a regular part of my kit, and I use it anytime my belayer is about 15kg less than i am. The shorter falls may be harder on you but that might save you from hitting a ledge midway up the route someday, not to mention it being easier on your belayer. Always spot your falls when you can. Look down and see where your feet are going to end up. Cushion the blow with all fours limbs.
Anyway, Great work man! Super looking forward to your collab with Pete, I'm jealous you're getting to climb with him. Hes one of my top favorite people in the youtube world and I'd give anything to get to hit up a multipitch with him.
Rock on!

Edit: I'd love to invite you over to Vietnam this winter to try some deep water solo if you're interested.

[nickhyatt]

Oh my, can't wait for the trad climbing instalment. Nothing as a gripping as being metres above a teeny wire you only placed to stop your second from telling you that you would hit the deck from there!
Good on you Mike for plugging away on the rock.

[timkoh]

I have 2 quick thoughts!

1. When you took that big fall in the gym, Kim is a bit too far from the wall. That causes the forces to be more horizontal on her which is much harder to resist than if she was closer to the wall. If she's closer to the wall, that would cause the forces to be more vertical and thus you have gravity in your favor to increase the resistance. There's also naturally more slack in the system the further you get from the wall which can contribute to your fall distance. I nearly dropped someone to the ground when I didn't understand this.

2. Try to clip the bolts when the clip is between your head and chest. I know it feels safer to clip high, but if you were to take a fall in that moment, you've got so much rope out, plus your belayer is probably trying to give you more, if your belayer doesn't react in time, you could easily deck. I think this is particularly important on the first 3 bolts.

Love your attitude toward safety!! Stay sendy!

[KieranJDuncan]

Nice one, Mike! Thanks a lot for bringing me on board to film your send, you cruised it 💪. Psyched for the next few months 😉

[jacobkelly]

Would love to say that there is a huge difference in indoor and outdoor grades! Indoor grades are always fairly soft comparatively - can do some 7A's indoors, but 6B outdoors is a huge achievement and my PB! Plus there is a definite factor of having to be more careful of your actions outdoors, increasing how hard those routes actually feel because it's often a lot slower and a lot more precise than indoors. Happy climbing!!

[landonkryger]

On your ohm comparison falls, I think the biggest difference is how much slack Kim had in the line. I know as a belayer it's hard to judge how much to have. You don't want too much so they fall far, and you don't want too little to make it hard to clip. Standing closer to the wall helps too, but can hurt visibility, so I enjoy using belay glasses.
3:15 & 15:24 Be careful not to have the rope between your legs. If you fall, you'll end up "flossing" yourself. Usually only a problem on the first clip.

[TheTom-Saunders]

12:29 The problem I would point out here is Kim is gripping the rope to close to the belay device, gripping the rope too close the the belay device can in the event of the fall cause
a finger or skin to get caught and damaged. It also gives you less leverage which means its easier for the rope to slip and give Kim a bad burn. Hope this helps 👍

[Kampfschildi]

When taking bigger falls (and when lead climbing in general) your belayer NEEDS TO KNOW about dynamic belaying. There are times when you as a belayer needs to jump, for example, to soften the fall and othertimes when you need to take in as much slack as quickly as possible (while the partner is falling) to reduce the chance of a fall to the bottom. This needs experience and ideally someone who is standing right next to the belayer when taking these falls trainings to tell them what should be done better. But in general a good idea that everyone should do.

[murrayful]

love how he invents crack climbing at 16:00

[ostrichfacts]

Thank you for getting me into climbing! I completed my first climb April 1st after watching your previous videos and have been doing 4 hours a week since then! I’ve grown from a 5b/c 59 now doing 6B/6B+ and working towards 6C! You’ve been a massive inspiration for me

[ItsSansom]

Your belayer absolutely should have told you about backclipping and z-clipping on your first lead climb if they hadn't already. Either of those happening would be a big safety risk!