Too Strong to Learn Technique? How to Move Better & Climb Harder

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Team:

Filmed at HarroWall in London

00:00 Intro
02:10 Strength Test
05:45 Drill 1 - Body Awareness
09:14 Drill 2 - Hand Hooks & Arm Ropes
12:51 Drill 3 - Holds Are Hot
15:42 Drill 4 - Direct Experiments: Toe Hooks Only
18:05 Drill 5 - Direct Experiments: Heel Hooks Only
19:51 Drill 6 - Treat Climbing Like Music
21:29 Drill 6 - Playing The Song For 1st Time
22:34 Drill 6 - Deciding On The Best Notes
25:02 Drill 6 - Practicing The Song
26:18 Drill 6 - Rehearsal To The Point of Performance
27:19 Drill 6 - Practised So Much Hard to Get Wrong
27:38 Drill 6 - Easy With Eyes Closed
30:08 Drill 6 - Concluded
31:16 Outro

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Okay let’s address the ‘alien sounds’…

I ran the audio through AI software to enhance the quality and reduce background noise (a couple of shots were filmed close to a hand dryer) but for some reason AI decided the video would be enhanced by some extra-terrestrial voices just to keep you on your toes.

Or maybe it’s subliminal messaging to encourage you to buy a Tindeq progressor… who knows 👀👽

CatalystClimbing
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Video so good people are getting possessed mid climb.

alefaria
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After 11 years of climbing and thinking I know it all, Louis comes along and really shifts my perspective. Amazing advice, amazing coach.

joehenshall
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Sam climbed this so good he started ascending into his alien form 22:02

discordgeschichten
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I’m a music teacher who’s been climbing for a year. Louis is a fantastic teacher with such a positive outlook. He’s actually helped me be a better teacher and I actually did the opposite where I used the analogy of my personal journey with climbing to practicing music to a student

blakeg
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watched this stoned at 2am thought i was getting haunted

judeka
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Definitely not one of those climbers you're talking about, but I've only recently started climbing, about 2 months, and I've made huge process, especially for someone with the upper body strength of a wet towel. I've gone from struggling on 4A to flashing 5B and projecting 6A (haven't sent it yet), and I can honestly credit most of the things that have helped me to this channel. Especially all the mindset tips you give have really made a huge difference for me. My climbing friends are actually impressed with my attitude and the 'relentless optimism' I've blatantly copied from Louis.

So thank you! And keep doing what you're doing, I'm just one of many you've inspired!

lottaheijna
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Video quick recap:

Warmups:

- be aware of each move/tension/pull/push you do
- try climbing without using any arm strenght
- move right hand only with right toehook etc.
- toehooks only/heel hooks only

Practice middle grade boulders (analogy to music):
- learn the notes one by one
- try different approches/versions
- choose exact song version
- repeat this version until comfortable playing in front of audience

antoninjarolim
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I'm a professional musician, and I recently just did an interview in which I compared climbing with music—it's great to hear the same analogy from a professional climber!

Gigi-czsr
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I think the takeaway for me here (someone who does NOT have the "too strong" problem) is definitely the "repeat mid range boulders" note. Thinking about my own climbing, I am rarely repeating the problems that are hard flashes or I get within 2-3 attempts. I feel like there are a lot of problems that I do once and leave forever to chase whatever has been newly set.

Definitely going to try to do some of those more difficult flashes 3-5 times until they feel like easy climbs, I think that's a great one for any type of climber.

nickdefrancis
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I know that was completely not the point of the video, but this inspired me to go practice some piano, and (something something Louis' positive mindset) I had more fun playing than I'd had in a while :) So thanks for that!

hadinossanosam
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I'm a professional musician who took up climbing a few years ago, and I find there are so many techniques I use during my music practice that I can relate to climbing. One of my professors would often say "Once you've done something one time you've proven you have the ability to do it. Now you just need to become consistent." He would also say "Less talk, more rock!" 😅

clairebivore
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Your music analogy is pure gold.

Also I loved that section about teaching every step vs. teaching by setting the appropriate exercise and letting the student mindfully work their way through. During school I made the experience that this is exactly how you learn something deeply. I think a good teacher is one who provides students with lots of learning opportunities and useful materials / exercises, not one who tries to do the learning for them and tells them the results. Otherwise you will never perform without your teacher standing behind you and telling you what to do.

nilsp
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Maybe my favorite video from y’all so far. I love Sam’s presence in front of the camera and the drills/explanations/analogies today were incredible. Great stuff all around!

Gork
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As a physical therapist, I just think Louis would be such a good PT especially a neuro PT because he thinks so much about resetting and strengthening movement patterns and makes it so fun!

rachelogburn
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I agree with Sam, this was an exceptionally good coaching session, even better than the usual!

matteobecchi
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I really love the statement, “in climbing we make compromises.” Which is so true.

chrisembryclimbing
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The pace at which you guys are delivering high quality videos is amazing. Great chemistry in the video, super interesting analogies and thought provoking inputs. Keep it up :)

labanix
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always a good day when you guys post a vid

elliotrichards
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especially the last one, drilling mid-hard climbs to perfection feels sooo good and is so fun....way more satisfying than just doing it and moving to the next one.
Great video

sneakysnake