Andrew McUtchen reacts to the new Vacheron Constantin Overseas, Patrimony at Watches & Wonders 2023

Watch expert Andrew McUtchen reacts to the new Vacheron Constantin novelties at Watches & Wonders 2023.

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Capitalising on the runaway success that the Overseas collection has become, Vacheron Constantin is introducing another complicated member of the family. The Vacheron Constantin Moon Phase Retrograde Date brings about a novelty for the brand, being their first sports watch with a retrograde complication. The retrograde is somewhat of a signature for Vacheron Constantin, as Style and Heritage Director Christian Selmoni recalls the Mercator with its double retrograde display or the jumping hour with retrograde minutes Saltarello.

For the Overseas Moon Phase Retrograde Date, Vacheron Constantin makes use of the model's stunning sunburst blue dial and carefully dedicates each hemisphere to one complication. The upper portion is reserved for the retrograde date, which is printed in a subtle light blue, making it stand out just the right amount. Equally subtle is the date pointer with its black surround, making the blue-tipped arrow appear as if it's floating. Taking up most of the lower half is the high-precision moonphase, requiring a single correction every 122 years. The inclusion of these complications has meant that the tooth-like indices of the Overseas had to be truncated slightly, taking away some of the sportiness, imbuing the watch with a touch of class instead.

The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Moon Phase Retrograde Date is a Vacheron Constantin boutique exclusive. Price: €48,000

Brand: Vacheron Constantin
Model: Overseas Moon Phase Retrograde Date
Reference Number: 4000V/210A-B911
Case Dimensions: 41mm (D) x 10.48mm (T)
Case Material: Stainless steel
Water Resistance: 50 metres
Dial: Blue sunburst
Crystal(s): Sapphire
Strap: Stainless steel with Maltese cross motif, blue rubber and calfskin straps included
Movement: 2460 R31L/2, in-house, automatic, Geneva Hallmark
Power Reserve: 40 hours
Functions: Hours, minutes, retrograde date, precision moonphase
Availability: Boutique exclusive
Price: €48,000

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The Patrimony collection is Vacheron Constantin's faithful look back at its archives, creating watches the likes of which we could've seen in the 1950s, but using modern technology. Sporting a gorgeously curved salmon dial, the Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Retrograde Day-Date becomes the next model that continues the marriage of dusty rose and platinum that Vacheron already introduced with the likes of the Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Chronograph. Described by the brand as "circular perfection", the model's slim features and elegant shapes have been inspired by the likes of the Disco Volante ref. 4986.

Vacheron Constantin has certainly made a push to include the retrograde display in many of their pieces for this year's releases, though it all starts to make sense considering their historical affinity for the complication. The Patrimony Retrograde Day-Date, in particular, takes inspiration from historical models like the noughties references 47245 and 12306, as well as the amazing piece unique known as Don Pancho. This particular Patrimony could also be referred to as a bi-retrograde, which used to be the model's name before a recent refresh. Separating the dial into two halves, the top one features a semi-circle of printed date numerals pointed to by a blued, skeletonised hand that jumps back once it reaches the end of the display at 31. A smaller hand does the same below the pinion, except it now points to days, fully spelled out in a fan-like shape. The blue colour of the printing matches the pointer hands, while the main handset and sharktooth indices are in white gold. The domed dial is a salmon sunburst, with another touch of rosiness in the 18k 5N pink gold of the Maltese cross emblem.

The Patrimony Retrograde Day-Date is a Vacheron Constantin boutique exclusive, with a limited annual production. Price: €70,000

Brand: Vacheron Constantin
Model: Patrimony Retrograde Day-Date
Reference Number: 4000U/000P-H003
Case Dimensions: 42.5mm
Case Material: 950 platinum
Water Resistance: 30 metres
Dial: Convex salmon sunburst
Crystal(s): Sapphire front and back
Strap: Dark blue alligator with 950 platinum folding clasp
Movement: 2460 R31R7/3, in-house, automatic, 4Hz
Power Reserve: 40 hours
Functions: Bi-retrograde day and date, hours, minutes
Availability: Limited annual production, boutique exclusive
Price: €70,000

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[brendDun]

Vacheron is my favorite brand. They have the best design language and they are underrated. Their new releases are modernized takes on traditional movements and they nailed all of them. Cheers.

[decluesviews]

VC doesn’t get enough press. They’re almost only mentioned in passing as the third member of the Swiss trinity. But when I compare the offerings side by side, VC have way more models that appeal to me than PP or AP. These new offerings—especially the Traditionelle Tourbillon—are stunning!

[hotlesbianassassin]

Thanks for the video. Best video capture of the Overseas Moon Phase Retrograde Date yet. Stunning watch.

[ricardochaveste]

Brilliant designs from this impressive brand, love it, my favorite was 35 mm incredible watch ⌚️

[wisamal-hakim]

The overseas with date and moonphase is absolutely incredible

Like the JLC master ultra thin the time only version although beautiful is a little sparse. I feel the 4500v was similar. But this, like the ultra thin moonphase, elevates the basic model to a stunning level.

VC’s offerings this year blow away patek in my opinion

Thanks for taking the time and keeping the tide at bay Andrew

[soupistasty]

For me, it's got to be that Traditionnelle Tourbillon Retro Date Openface. That combination of a tourbillon with a retro date complication, yet somehow updating it to be modern, not overly retro or stuffy. So nice!

[raymond-thecrumpledlecturer]

Beautiful watches. Barring a lottery win, I'll never own any one of them. Sob. (Great review video).

[ThatDaveLafferty]

Is the blue going to be boutique only?

[thegorn]

It's like Andrew is in the Matrix here, with NPCs programmed to mill around in the background, programmed with liner trajectories or a semi-random Brownian motion. Nice watches - can't go wrong with a blue sunburst Overseas.

[CoxaBranca]

These models really speak: y'all must've forgot.

[ABCTEST]

Traditionnelle Twin Beat is still the best watch from Vacheron Constantin

[collectorfrombhutan]

Same here with the watch choices from Watches & Wonders 2023. Love the Tudor BB54 and Vacheron Constantin 35mm.

[JoeyJiggles]

I’m a huge VC fan and that salmon is such a bad color - at least from here.

[attila]

Simply stunning, every watch. If only I had the money to buy all of them. Still stuck on the waitlist :(

[RayFlorenceReyes]

Any Vacheron Constantin in Sunburst blue is the must-have blue watch in the market.

[Khanh.Nguyen]

Really loving these models. Great coverage.

[slim]

Thank you guys so much for the videos! Love the content! Would be great to see a more in depth video on the smaller sized overseas models and how they fit on the wrist :)