Stop Doing It WRONG! How To PROPERLY Expose SLOG 3 | FX3 | A7SIII

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Learn how to properly expose slog3 on the Sony FX3 and Sony A7SIII.

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Dude you did a great job on this bro! I’ve seen other great videos on here but is by far my favorite. Great job! Quick and to the point.

newfaceglobal
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You only need to overexpose if the seen has heaps of shadows or is really dark.

The noise falls of the native isos are so good that you can expose as normal in non dark environments

tayo
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The a7s3 bottom range iso is 640 but fx3 it’s 800.

ronaldperez
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I usually expose between 0.7+ and 1.3+, that gave me the best results.

ercinercin
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This would have been an amazing tutorial if you were actually showing the screens as you explained the setting. Some of us don’t know how to navigate that. But still cool tutorial though.

rykerdraws
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That’s been my assessment with the FX30 too from looking at footage. Over exposing is not needed with these cameras, maybe with the old ones you needed to. The aim should be to set your exposure to zero. If it goes a bit above or below as you move around and the light changes it’s ok but it’s not ok to set it above (or below) 0 to begin with.

starwaves
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Wow the next level of S-LOG 3 with Top Camera

Zahronisation_ID
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The true ‘correct’ way to expose is set middle grey to 41% with skin tones around 48% up to 52% in slog 3. But often don’t have time to do this. It’s easier to just spot metre on the face and set zebras to approx 60% and this equates to what everyone says is around the classic +1.7 or +1.3 rule

CVEXPLORES
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Hi Alex, I use FX3, I don´t have PP7-PP8-PP9. What I have to do?. Thanks fot answer brother

omerdogan
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Duuuude… your so detailled with every setting! I love it!! Thats what separates u from other creators! So helpful, thank u so much 💯❤️

HatinKiwi
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What I can't find is some notes on how people are actually adjusting exposure for the environment. You cant change the iso, you can't change the shutter speed, the aperture can be used to adjust exposure but also has depth-of-field implications that might not allow for much change, and there's no ND filters. So all you can do is change the lighting but in setups with ambient and natural light included, even the lighting is working around a fundamental base exposure. So... you're on the fly and shooting, you need to tweak the exposure, you're also stuck on your f-stop what's your go-to setting? - what gives first? The iso/noise or the shutterspeed/natural movement?

onceuponarob
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the cool thing with the grainy footage without base iso, is it does have a characteristic look to it. I guess you can always add noise in post.

AMPMReviews
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Actually i found the best of both worlds by just over exposing +1.3, that is the magic number, because it's a tad over 0.0, and it gives you more room in post production, and fixing overexposed 1.3 is much easier then +1.7 or +2.0.

I never go to +2.0 that is way overkill, first off 2.0 your in danger of clipping and not knowing it, it will not take much to cause it to clip your highlights, and, it's not needed what so ever, all your doing is making it harder to fix highlights that are too high like a subject who has pale white skin, that would be a nightmare to fix, and cause your subject to look like a ghost, and even if you try and fix that, other parts of your scene will get ruined trying to make the subject skin look normal, and going to +2.0 will cause a slight shift on your color tones that would be incorrect according to your white balance, Just don't do it, don't go to +2.0 there is no need for it and it's not giving you any benefit what so ever it's totally useless you gain nothing doing that...

So the best thing i found was to stay at +1.3 over exposed, that works the best, go and give it a try, you will love the results..
And also if your shooting Prores Raw, even better..

AMomentInTimeProductions
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I usually film people and only care about them being exposed properly. What do you think about setting the zebras for skin tones around 65 to 75 +3 to 5? I have seen a lot of good videos saying that is the best way to get proper exposure. For people that is.

ekphotography
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Thnks for the video, do you also have tutorial how to get the perfect S CINETONE setting on the fx3 ?

osmankerimben
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PP8 no longer exists in the firmware, so I just made a custom color profile.

djjoel
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@Alex Perri, PP8 is gone in FX3. What should I do?

swanhtet
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So is it 640 or 800 native? Don’t get it anymore

Thebogdanpascal
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I have the A7siii and shoot interviews and when the multimetering is 0.0 on faces the background has a ton of noise. But then if I move the exposure to 1.7 my subjects faces are blown out and don't create the cinematic shadows I'm trying to achieve. Using SLOG3 has been a very frustrating endeavor for me.

JohnnieVibes
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I use my sony zv e1 and the footage with ISO 640 is much much better than with 12800

rocusm