New Home Shower and Tub Faucet Installation | The Moen Encore

New Home Shower and Tub Faucet Installation | The Moen Encore | Must Have Plumbing Tools | DIY Plumbing

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Thanks for watching! I'm Roger Wakefield, LEED AP, The Expert Plumber and welcome to my channel. On this channel I teach homeowners how to save money on their plumbing by doing DIY plumbing projects. I also teach plumbers and plumbing company owners how to be the best plumbers in their area and run successful plumbing businesses. My goal is teach you everything you need to know about plumbing.

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[codylandon]

Need more videos like this. Plumbing commercial (hotels) and residential for 5 years and love this type of content. Been watching this channel for the last year.

[elena_m]

a man gets paid to do his job and paid to film himself. great deal smart man

[adrianmizcles]

Awesome! I did 2 of those today we building a 3 bedroom home . I love plumbing !!!

[BuilderBob]

This is the kind of content I absolutely love to see from this channel!

[johne.meyerconstructionser]

I like Roger-he worries about right but doesn't get carried away... he does every house or business and treats it like his own... Well done!

[kms]

I am not a plumber but I work at Wolseley which is Fergusons Canadian sister. I learn a lot from your videos and appreciate the knowledge gained.

[TR]

Love seeing an expert at work, good video.

[texaspoontappa]

For the moen valves, 99% of the time, a 2x4 block across the back of the studs gets you the perfect depth. But every shower is different, so in order to avoid issues later down the line, its always necessary to check with the ge or tile guys how thick their cement board and tile will be. This way you know for sure your depth is correct, and if it ends up too far in or out, youre off the hook. Surprised this wasnt mentioned.

To add to that, the tub center will be on the specs sheet if the tub is new, but even then, the walls arent always perfectly level. So by the time you find the center up by the showerhead, it may actually be a 1/2”, 1”, etc left or right. For this reason i used to take measurements from a few different reference points, but now i use a laser, perfect results and no double guessing. It usually isnt a big deal if its off by a little. However, the center of my shower at home is right on a grout line; the tub spout is slightly to the right of it and the showerhead a bit to the left. It may only be a half inch difference but its fairly noticeable because of the grout line.

I also add a 2x4 for the tub spout as well. This way if anyone leans or falls on the tub spout, it doesnt disturb the shower valve. Ive seen caulking around the handle trim split because the valve would lean forward when pressure was applied onto the spout

Hate to keep going, as youve been in the field far longer than I have, but the copper running through the studs like that can lead to noisy pipes. Ive had to open dozens of walls, showers included, to remedy this.

Last thing, its best to just slap some nail plates on there. Though the pipe is deep enough to not require it, if a grab bar or slide bar is installed and a screw goes through that pipe, boy howdy would that be an expensive mistake

These training demonstrations are awesome, they would also make it great if you could actually use these pre-made templates for a customer as well. Just remove the existing framework, put in the template and make the necessary adjustments to the plumbing fixtures, run some water to test them before you install them. Having a pre-made template like that could save you a lot of time and hassle, making your job move faster.

[jorgecallico]

Here in California, I would have used a half inch ''Isolator'' to protect that 1/2 inch copper as it penetrated the wall studs. In fact, some of our localities would require it. Another thing the state would demand is an air chamber on both hot & cold lines. Which would have been installed with a copper T fitting instead of that 90 degree El you put in on both the hot & cold supply lines to the mixer.

Isolators can really reduce the expansion creaks and squeaks associated with supply systems. They come in three sizes,
1/2 inch, 3/4 and 1 inch. All require a 1 & 3/8ths in forstner bit to drill through. Which is kinda time saving. As it means that I don't need to carry various sizes of forstner bits just for my supply lines.

[elijahthomas]

Continue making these videos bro watching from trinidad 🇹🇹

[giorgosaxis]

Finally a plumber that can solder!!!I am working 25 years as a plumber, and all the new kids, running around with their Pro Press tools, and dont even know how to solder copper!!lol

[rogerrogers]

Cool but you skipped over all the juicy little details and important stuff. I’d love to see a breakdown of what you’re doing and why. Thanks! Good video

[aaronbiglow]

A handlebar mustache should be a staple for all us plumber's.

[marcojohnson]

If only every install had that much room to work with

[kenbrown]

1: this reminds me of the showers in my college dorm where the heads were 4'6" off the floor.

2: to be more accurate to actual construction, the trainer should have a stud within 2" of the center of the tub and at least one knot where you want to drill.

[roguetaleteller]

What's the music from 13:58 to 14:30

[texan]

Almost got me Mr Plumber U sir 🤔. No running water, ain’t buying that valve.
great vid 🇺🇸❤️🤣👍

[drew]

We just did a tub/shower with the new encore cartridge love the new technology. Only downside is when you put the cartridge in with the plastic loader. Got to be careful we ended up pinching one of the rubber gaskets and ruined the cartridge had to get a new one.

[guitar]

Hey Rodger, I didn't see any intrical stops or any type of isolation valve on that valve. Are there any on that? If there is no way to isolate that valve it would not pass code in New Jersey