5 Symptoms of a Bad Starter!

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Is your car struggling to start? The problem might just be with a bad starter. In today’s video, Zach explores everything you need to know about an engine’s starter - its fundamental role in your vehicle's operation and the common symptoms indicating it might be going bad. Perfect for both seasoned car enthusiasts and new drivers, this video breaks down one of the most crucial components under your hood. Join Zach as he dives into the world of vehicle starters, explaining how they work, why they're important, and how to recognize signs of trouble before it leads to a breakdown.

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00:12 – What is a Starter and How does it Work?
01:01 – Signs & Symptoms of a Failing Starter
01:07 – Symptom #1 of a Bad Starter – No Crank, No Start or Weak Crank
01:53 – Symptom #2 of a Failing Starter – Engine Clicking or Other Sounds
03:11 – Symptom #3 of a Bad Starter – No Electrical Problems
04:41 – Symptom #4 of a Failing Starter – Smoke or Burning Electrical Smells
05:51 – Symptom #5 of a Bad Starter – Visual Cues
06:53 – Jump Start Test: Battery vs Alternator vs Starter
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This is the most impressive analysis of starter issues and self diagnostics I've ever seen. I'm an instant subscriber!!!! Great job!

itsmewd
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Came in from the garage and thought I had grease on my phone screen and I kept trying to wipe it off, but it was the wall in the background behind you. That messed me up for a second.

jpeazi
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Got a problem with my truck struggling to start. Sometimes it fires up fine, other times it struggles but starts. Last night it failed entirely to start - it *almost* started on attempt 1, but attempts 2 and 3 produced a single click. It then started flawlessly after sitting for about five minutes, but the check engine light was suddenly on. I'm willing to bet money the light will be off tomorrow when I start it up, if it starts at all.

I experience no problems with the vehicle's other electrical systems at any point during these incidents.

tek
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Note: these notes will apply to American made cars from the early 60’s to the late 80’s, or 90’s. I left the Auto Parts industry at that time, working on my own cars only. I lost touch with the industry when I went back to school and became an engineering technician in electronics.
When you hear a starter spinning and it doesn’t drop in RPM, the starter bendix is most likely the problem.the bendix is what engages with the flywheel. It is clutch driven, the clutch being like the one on a mini bike in that when it engages the flywheel and starter is spinning a sprang clutch makes the bendix spin in only one direction. If the bendix is bad it won’t drive the flywheel and allow the starter motor to spin free. If the bendix engages the flywheel gear and the motor spins but doesn’t have enough energy to turn the engine over, either you have a bad battery or a starter that is failing. In that case you can put a volt meter, ( or a multimeter set to dc volts from set at 20 volts or so), and have a friend crank the engine. Typically the voltage with drop to about 9 or 10. Lots while the starter is cranking. If it drops further and the battery load test fine, check the battery cables. If they show little to no resistance they are ok and the terminals are clean the starter is probably at fault. if it clicks either the battery voltage is too low to or is bad. If the battery load test good then the starter solenoid is suspect. On early GM engines the solenoid sits on the starter motor like the starters in the video, and they can be changed independent of the starter motor. Two screws and a tab are all the hold it in place. Some older solenoids had copper on both sides of the contact disc inside the solenoid. Since these are not available as rebuilt units I would take them apart and turn the contact disc around so that there are clean contact surfaces to transfer voltage to the starter motor. But before going nuts you can check the primary windings for continuity with a multimeter, or read the resistance of those windings. They are basically an electromagnet the pulls the piston attached to the starter bendix into the flywheel. If those windings have burned up the start will do nothing except help hold the front wheels on the ground. The assembly is basically dead weight until a new solenoid is installed. On Fords a separate solenoid is mounted on the Passenger side fender well and are easy to replace. Chrysler has their solenoid mounted internally. They are inside the starter. I’ve never bothered to replace those, but have seen very few failures because Chrysler start motors use gear reduction to ease the load on the starter motor, giving them an advantage over other brands.

kennethcohagen
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I’m getting all my lights and radio turn on but when I turn my key to start nothing happens at all no noise nothing, but my car has been starting no problems at all and this morning it just didn’t start, can a starter just die out of nowhere?

annacouch
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you are the real MVP in my situation.. thank you

juanpb
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Appreciate the lack of fluff and chatter! Lol straight to the point just what I need.

angierox
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The solutions to my problems. Thank you. This is best explanation video of a bad starter

ezekielrodriguez
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I get weak crank just got new starter in wish me luck installing.

stevenfranklin
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Had a mobile mechanic to conduct a diagnosis on my Ford territory 2005 model. Vehicle issue was that it couldn't start. He concluded that it was both a battery and an alternator problem. Had both replaced. Car was still abit hazy starting up but got the vehicle up and running. Battery test concluded after the new one that it was charging up but slower than usual. Went for a 50 minute drive, no problems on the road, AC radio all working fine. Got home, turmed car off, turned it back to check if it was still ok 7 seconds later and it was dead. Checked the new battery and it was completely drained.

Your thoughts?

Kacivi
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My car was starting fine and normal then one night I went to turn it on and it just clicked. (Music, radio everything turned on) and I did it two more time and the same exact thing. Then I waited about 5 minutes and did it again and it turned on like nothing happened and I didn’t have any check engine lights on or nothing. Then the next morning came and it didn’t want to start after the first two tries and I just stopped because it was pouring down rain and I needed to get to work. Any ideas or suggestions.

grace-rovu
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Good concise information efficiently delivered. Thank you, sir!

Nettle
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When I try to start my Chevy I hear a weird low whirring and it dies out. I’ve switched out all the cartridge fuses and mini blade fuses. Replaced the battery. But I still can’t get it to start. So I’m assuming it’s the starter?

StarFoxLazer
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My starter motor was clicking rapidly, so I replaced it with a brand new starter. But with the new starter it's still just giving me rapid clicks? I still think the clicking is from the solenoid engaging and disengaging. Is there anything else that could cause this behavior?

kered
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Mines does the one click when i turned the key, but my truck started dying out when i was driving in the snow 2 weeks ago but when it stopped snowing it had ran back to normal

TmP
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Thank you for a clear and informative video. After your comments, I think I might need a new battery.

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My truck makes weird ticking noise increases with speed when pushing the throttle forward, I can hear it on a hill as-well on idle and when in reverse I don’t hear it until I hit the brake, I’ve done some research and they says it’s my starter bendix hitting sliding back forward hitting my flywheel

youtubetrash
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My clio campus 2008 starts first time every time. However I get a slight grinding sound for half a second after it starts. Does this mean my starter motor is going to die soon?

lewisovery
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Thanks! Car died and I could not turn the ignition over and there was no sound. Battery checked out good and I replaced the alternator the week before. Hopefully this narrows it down to a bad started. Got it towed back to the house. Looks like a few hours to replace it on a Chevy Colorado 2015.

roguebotanist
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When Brushes wear out. You get the false flat battery syndrome with 1 or 2 brushes making contact, resulting in drawing more current.

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