Engine flush Good or Bad???

Is an engine flush a good idea? In the past I would have had to say no…DON’T do it. But things change and todays cars use oil for more than just lubrication. Variable valve timing and other engine controls are now using engine oil pressure to operate. For that to work they must remain clean. They are protected by very fine screens that can and do stop up with sludge. This has made me have to rethink the engine flush. The products we tried in the past broke up sludge in chunks stopping up oil pump pick up screens. This was my hesitation to relook into the flush systems. Enter our BG products salesman who assured me that his is different. The BG system dissolves sludge into very fine particles that get trapped in the oil filter where they belong.

[tag_]

I just did a "double flush" on my 2007 Ram 5.7L. I added the flush to the existing oil and ran it as directed. Changed the oil and changed the filter and put another round of flush in it. Ran that as directed and drained that. Then filled up with new oil and a new filter. The truck is running great and that second flush definitely seemed to be cleaner than the first but was still fairly dirty. I have owned this truck since new, ALWAYS ran synthetic oil and ALWAYS changed the oil between 5000-7500 miles. I was pretty amazed at how dirty both flushes back to back were.

[Tiberiumfreek]

Directly from the BG reps that I worked with, they actually say just to add the can to the existing dirty oil, and only run for 15-20 minutes (MAX). What happens over a long extended time, is the chemical evaporates with the engine heat. Eventually, you're just circulating old oil around.

That said, draining the oil, refilling with new oil, adding the cleaner, then putting a new filter on would be amazing for a thorough job. Expensive, but if you got a lot of sludge, that'll clean up nice! I love the BG Engine flush, works unbelievably well!

[cameracamera]

On a juckyard luv pickup me and boy took off valve cover and pour a gallon of diesel over head and timing chain. Let soak in oil pan. Filtered the diesel each time before running thru again. Repeated multiple times until diesel was clear of debri. Then poured new 5 quarts of oil all over lifters cam rockers etc. New filter. Good looking new oil so far. Only other thing i considered was filling entire oil pan up but didnt want to deteriorate the oil pan gasket.

[tssci]

No need for a dangerous solvent in your oil, especially running it for an hour. Yes, prove to me it is safe where no manufacturer recommends use of solvent based flushes. I can flush the engine with 100% API rated oil and achieve the same results after 20 minutes of driving on the highway. It is called a Full Volume Oil Change is well known in the Industrial Machine industry. Applies to all engines types. 10-20% of the old oil will remain in a modern engine. That is what people see when draining after a short interval or even running for one hour. This is what causes most sludge, the residual oil that is left in the engine for double the normal oil interval. Performing a double oil change will net you a 96%-99% exchange in most cases. This method is 100% safe and the fully formulated oil with all of its detergents and dispersants will flush the engine. If your engine is full of sludge and varnish from years of neglect, running a 100% synthetic oil and performing these safe flushes will clean up your engine after three OCIs. By the way, I have nothing to sell you, only sound information and advice. Wait, hold the presses. BG now makes a flush oil to get rid of the residual flush solvents and residue. I thought it was safe. Wow, who would have guessed. The flush oil is merely an API SN rated oil but they charge you extra.

[cfitzgduke]

Take a small sample of the flushing oil after running the engine, then add the flush product and repeat the engine run and drain. This way you are comparing the flushing oil with the flushing agent. They are often the same when you have a clean engine. If not, then you are truly flushing gunk from a really dirty engine. A car you have maintained properly will get little benefit from the engine flush.

So are we cleaning gunk and varnish or just flushing the old dirty oil?
Too many people put in a flushing agent and say "Wow, look how dirty the oil is, this stuff really works." Is the oil flushing residual dirty oil and sediments, or is the flushing agent truly cleaning varnish and gunk?

Kind of important to know which is of the two options is happening. When the flush oil sample alone is the same as the flush agent oil sample, you'll know your car’s engine is clean and regular oil changes with modern oils will require no more flushing agents. If the oil gets markedly dirtier with the addition of the flush agent, you’ll know you need to keep cleaning out the engine build up. Normally, this won’t be the case.

Use either a quick step agent like Moly or a 1000 mile clean like Auto-RX or Marvels, but please don’t risk engine or seal damage with kerosene or diesel. One advantage of the “slow burn” cleaners is that you are allowing the fresh oil to clean over time vs. wasting oil with quick clean multiple flushes that might be completely unnecessary and expensive.

Once you have “cleaned” your engine, regular oil changes will likely be enough and no more flushes should be required. However, if you are OCD like me, do an engine flush when you change your transmission/differential fluid/oil, every 30k/60k miles, or use the slow burn additive every other oil change

[MXRiderFiftyTwo]

Im not a mechanic...
But O believe to start doing flushes around the 100k mile mark where the engine wear would be noticable. Do a flush every 3rd oil change.

[tekingzvlog]

Yes sir thank you so much for the update..take care always.

[lorenray]

Those that say a flush will clog ports and screen must have followed green new scam extended oil change interval manuals for after warrenty failure specs! Lol Gotta keep using 0w oil while pouring in a quart every few miles. Lol retired mechanics and youngunz with a more free IQ say warm it up before you rev it up. Change the oil at 3, 000 to 5, 000 miles. Use slightly more viscocity with high mileage! Use a good quality gas cleaner. Dump black oil. Change oil filter. Add engine flush and 5w 30 oil or 10w 30 oil minimum. Flush per directions. Drain and add new quality filter. Some like me OCD say do a rinse drain and fill also. Mowers like clean oil too. I use vortex drain tube. Yogurt 1qt tub trimmed to fit around loostened filter to unscrew to catch all oil and used filter! Works. I fill to top dot after purring a few minutes. I check oil often.

[prevost]

I’ve seen VVT equipped cars that had poor maintenance done on them and were suffering from VVT related engine codes corrected by running a good quality flush such as BG, LiquiMoly, Amsoil through them. Today’s 8-10K mile oil change intervals in VVT equipped engines is a recipe for disaster.

[eddybulich]

Was told by a Mechanic with over 30 years experience that even on on new vehicles sludge can be a problem, his recommendation was 3.5 litres oil and 500ml diesel and run it for a few weeks to clear sludge. NOW this is only for vehicles that have a sludge issue. So going to try it and will report back.

[Boodieman]

Add a good flush to the oil idle for 10-15 min then drain.

[lucasdsampaio]

VW Gold IV 460.000 km, never had an engine flush but runs like a charm. Should I do it?

[Bazerkly]

Flushing an engine is very risky! Sludge can break loose and cause an oil pump failure... destroying your engine! If you change your motor oil every 2, 500 to 3, 000 miles you will never need a flush!

[FaSquad]

Changing the oil every 1, 500 miles will keep the engine clean and running like new

[petesmith]

So, drain oil. Replace filter. Add flush. New filter traps sludge. Add new oil …. What about the filter?

[victorteo]

I wouldn’t recommend engine flush. The sludge may clog up something else, causing more problems. Just change engine oil and filter as recommended by car manufacturer. Not at 20-25k miles! Wonders which car manufacturer recommends that!

[TheUltimate]

You not need to bay engine flush in the shop, i do a flush of diesel engine with a fresh oil i not need enymore, empty the oil and the replement the filter, and mixed 60/40 oil and diesel, and let the engine run in 15-20 min, empty the oil again and new filter, and full lite more diesel in the engine without the oilplugg in the pan so all the old oil will be emty from the pan, pur the oilplugg back and fill the engine with fresh new oil,
The oil on the dipstick its now clear, i been recommend this flush, the have been long time last time this engine have service of oil and filter, the oil feel dry and the camshaft vas Black of old oil and there were some deposits in the cylinder head that were like tar, clean the bearing trays on the camshaft immediately, it is clear that the oil change has been sloppy and the first oil that was cheapest was probably taken and it doesn't pay off in the long run

[peterrudy]

Sorry, for countless years I have always used an engine oil flush at every oil / oil filter change . Miles ranged from 10000, 7500 and 5000 .and oil was not black but golden and I could see through it while it was draining . These flushes were either Amsoil or Liqui-Moly, detergent based, not solvent .

[rondhole]

Strong detergent and solvent is good only wh😁n you have sticky piston rings and burn oil. Otherwise it only accelerate wear on bearings and seals. It is solvent

[DR-rkqu]

How would a BG engine flush work to trap the sludge in a cartridge style oil filter?  Like the oil filter in a 2015 Wrangler.  The filter will be located on top of the engine and it's just the filtering element.