Say Goodbye to Sanding Drywall Mud Forever

This DIY drywall mudding tutorial is all about how to apply drywall mud without having to sand from start to finish. This innovative drywall mud additive from Muddskip is a game changer when it comes time to applying mud to your drywall. Bring Your Own Tools (#BYOTools 214).

Apparel List:

Material List:

Tool List (Amazon Links):

CHAPTERS:
0:00 - Intro
1:00 - What is Muddskip?
3:09 - How To apply Drywall Mud
8:55 - Do You Need To Sand Drywall Mud?
11:38 - Drywall Fire Test
12:45 - Drywall Sealer and Paint
14:11 - Finish shots

[Bugdriver]

Just a your example here, you're replacing the lower portion of your garage wallboard because the garage flooded... Yes, wallboard will wick up water....so, may I suggest you install the new wallboard leaving a 3/4 to 1 inch gap at the floor to keep the wallboard from getting wet, if the garage floods again. That gap is then easily covered with any base molding.

[SwampDonkey]

A man that says you don’t have to sand drywall, needs a light.

[RobertLopez]

I’m not a professional, but I have some tips that have worked very well for me that I learned from professionals. 1) you don’t need to buy fancy stuff to modify your mud. You can use Fixall or Durahm’s rock hard putty to get your topper or joint compound to set very quickly.
2)You also never have to sand. As soon as you start seeing the mud start to dry, you can use a slightly wet, grout sponge to smooth the surface. It’ll take some practice, but once you get good at it, your drywalling jobs will be very quick and clean.

[letsRegulateSociopaths]

word to the wise, you can get 40/ 90 min quick setting mud. As well, you can't use that mesh tape with normal compound-- you CAN use it with the quickset.

[tabbott]

Always use quickset mud with mesh tape. Regular bucket mud will shrink and crack on large gaps/ seam differences. I always use speed set 20 or 45 minute for 1st 2 coats (depending on job size) and 3rd coat gets "low dust" lite bucket mud. You MUST sand if you want it perfectly smooth. Texture prevents sanding but isnt popular anymore here. The "low dust" stuff settles to the floor quicker when sanding so dust isnt as bad. 3 coats in one day is no problem if its small job. I have used topping compound for a smoother finish on whole walls but I rarely mud the whole wall.
I knew a guy who said he sands with no dust. Yea he used wet method to feather edges and none of his repairs were flat. It looked horrible. Sanding with a hard block and screen knocks it flat quick then follow with sponge to feather edges

[cayminlast]

I worked as a 'Drywall Punch out Tech' for a number of years, there are a few "quick set' products which cure in as little as 5 minutes, we used 15 and 20 minute mud for bigger repairs, A job like yours could be finnished and painted in one working day.

[ThatKiltedGuyDIY]

Here’s some words of advice from a 40 year Drywall pro that I teach on my channel. One is a video like this makes it look easier and makes it look like it came out better than it did. When you light drywall work at a 90° angle it hides most of the defects so you don’t see them on videos like this. The big DIY shows major network shows do the same thing.

Next as many have pointed out that you should never use regular compound with mesh tape. I’ve put on at least 500 rolls of mesh tape with no problem because I always use fast setting joint compound as it is required.

So watch videos like this and support their channel but realize that you don’t want to take too much advice from videos like this. I try to simplify it for everybody and give you the right advice so that you can do it right.

I’m going to have to test out that product myself someday

[LilDirt]

Awesome vid! I appreciate you sharing. The cut down in drywall dust and clean up alone is a definite selling point. Such a pain tarping off areas of the job within an occupied home, trying to contain dust. It's a waste of time, money for plastic tarps, tape etc. these additives make a huge difference. And an additional money and time saver is not having to wait on drying time. Love it! Thanks again. 👍

[conradcoolerfiend]

just a note, to people watching, you shouldnt be using air drying mud (bucket or box mud) to tape mesh tape. you should be using setting type (powder) muds. It can be done, but it has a higher chance to crack over time. its probably fine in this specific video because i think that additive turns the bucket mud into a type of quick setting mud.

[neilmeiskey]

I redid a basement that is notorious for flooding. I found some 1/2" "dirty" and nicked Azek board very inexpensive and ripped to 3" and ran that along the floor before drywall, installed drywall on top of that then 3-1/2" trim to cover the Azek. Next time a few inches of water entered, popped off the trim, dried everything and put the trim back on. Not a perfect solution but works:). Another water prone basement did Azek bead board to chair rail height:). Just grateful I have a dry basement!

[SomewhatAbnormal]

I think that you’ll still need to sand the final coat no matter what. But speeding up the application of coats is key.

[joshcaldon]

Pro Drywall tip. Mesh tape is only intended for small patches, not lengthy seams and will result in a hairline crack over time. Paper tape or Fiba Tape. I found this out the hard way when i first started out and all that hard work down the drain will make you lose sleep trust me😅

[anaarias]

I'm always so grateful for people that take the time out to make these helpful videos. Thank you for sharing 🤗😊

[HannahMattox]

I've been doing drywall for almost 20 years and still don't always get my timing right on every coat 🥴 it's okay, though, because this is your house AND you're learning while doing it, in the event you may need it in the future! ❤

[mesohandy]

Great video Brent. I have used this product and it is awesome. As others have mentioned, while it does make hot/setting mud easier to apply, you really don't need to use it because Muddskip allows you to add more layers without waiting until the next day. Hot mud or setting mud is notoriously hard to apply and very hard to sand. Your difficulty sanding I believe was related to the hot mud not the Muddskip. Also because 20 minute mud starts to set up very quickly, you often don't get a smooth surface unless you are very fast. One of the very big benefits of Muddskip is NO SANDING! It also feathers very nicely. Very informative and helpful video. Thank you!

[EverydayHomeRepairs]

Thanks Brent, you are always introducing me to new products. Keep up the great work 🙌

[adobemastr]

In the late 1990's, I built my own house but had a professional drywaller do the taping; he never did any sanding and used regular drywall mud but he watered it down to a consistency he liked. If memory serves me correctly, it might have been regular drywall mud followed by the "lite" type mud for the subsequent coats. He troweled on the finishing coats with varying lengths of taping trowels, very thin, like paper, and it came out great. Then, for the final coats, I sprayed a "knockdown" on the walls with a hopper gun and "knocked" that down with my 10" to 14" taping trowels. Never sanded anything that I can remember and it came out great after painting.

[datguy]

I knew a guy who would let his joints set up a few minutes and then do a wipe with a wet sponge andthe sanding was minimum worked good..

[ItchyKneeSon]

Drywall YT channels worth checking out:
-That Kilted Guy
-Vancouver Carpenter
-Home Renovision

[chrisludston]

ANOTHER GIMMICK !
Do same exact thing with
Easy Sand, for under $10 !
Never use premix on mesh tape !
I Use 5, for samller repairs and taping, 20 for most repairs and taping, or 90, if I have a large area.
Or, I'll run 20, the entire job, remix in mud pan with a mixer from Menards.
They have small paddle mixer, metal rod, black end, ..
It works perfect in mud pans.
Do not get air in your mix.
Keep paddle submerged, or mix will dry in about half the time.
Tho, that could be a good thing at times.
One more tip.. for the newbie's...
The number on setting mud is NOT dry time... it's set time !
It needs 24 to 48, sometimes longer, depending on thickness, air temp, and humidity, or primer will peel !
Believe me, I've tried to rush it, more than once.
Always paid the price.
You can use hair dryer or heat gun, to set it off, help get a 2nd coat, if your in a rush.
Run it thin enough, use 5, dry with heat gun, slowly, prime, paint, within minutes.
I wouldn't rush dry time on a high dollar job, but, 911's or low proffit jobs, I do it all the time.
Mix a little wet, so mud flows, tilt pan end to end as you mix.
Using 20, individual pans may take a few minutes longer, due to cleaning in between, but, you have less tools to carry around, you mix what you need, mix to desired thickness.

After 20 minutes, apply your 2nd coat, a little thinner, skim, and your done.
In rush job, where level 3 or 5 is not needed, I'll sponge the mud before I move to my next pan, dry with heat gun, prime, paint.
Never sanding anything.
All mud goes on same Bat time, same Bat place !
Don't mistake Durabind for Easy Sand.
You will only confuse the two once. Lol
(Durabond "can be" sanded, but, it's like sanding steel compared to soft wood. )

Never use 2 types of mud, on a finish coat.
As you sand, you could, will, break thru to the different type, and, the two will sand differently, leaving holes and craters that are a huge pain to repair.

Hope all this helps someone.
I learned the hard way, and, I'm still learning ways to improve speed and quality.

Absolutely no need for this mix ! ! !
Just another DAM. GIMMICK ! ! !