Rigging transfer case motor F150 4x4 not working engaging

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Getting transfer case motor to engage 4x4 directly without use the GEM computer thingy or any other electronics, just a switch.
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I Have done this and works great. One thing I RECOMMEND Is to get a switch that is Spring loaded back to center to keep from burning up transfer motor if left un up or down mod. Our if someone else drives vech forgets to switch back to center.

garigney
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You would be surprised how easy it is to access the GEM. However I dont think it would have solved your problem. I think you did this the best way. Good Vid.

onokaya
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You actually did a fantastic job of writing out a wiring plan. I have a Ford Ranger with the same type of transfer case. And I will use your method as a way to get it to work if all else fails. Thank you for posting your video!

petespotsin
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Good information here. The video was on point. And the comments were helpful as well. I’m not doing this. I’ll just order the switch and keep looking for the actual problem. Foot note here someone come up with a manual shift linkage that does away with the electronic BS. Vacuum on vacuum off on the front hubs is no big deal but I don’t like that crape ether. Thanks that is all

shawnclark
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He uses a double pole double throw switch. on the switch, the middle two connections are for 12V + and 12V-. The drawing he did shows he connects short jumper wires from each connection on one end of the switch to the opposite side connections of the switch to change the polarity (direction motor will travel)(like drawing an X from the corner connectors of the switch). This changes motor direction when he moves switch from up position to down position (or vice-versa). Old 4x4's had a lever that you pulled down about 2 inches to go from 2xH to 4xH, then you moved it down another 2 inches to go into Neutral then another two inches to go into 4xL. This electric motor is just moving that lever into each one of the positions (hear the clunk in the video). If you move the switch one direction it will go in the above order, when you move it the other direction it shifts the transfer case back from 4xL (clunk) to N... then shifts to 4xH (clunk) then shifts to 2xH (last clunk). You must return the switch to the center position (see other comment about buying a switch that is Momentary (returns to off position by itself like your window switches) for safety... best application for this if you are absent minded. pg 112 of the 1998 Ford Expedition owner's manual shows Ford uses a 30Amp for the shift on the fly Expeditions... If you intend to do this use absolutely no higher amperage fuse than that. Keep in mind that this thing could actually get stuck between gear positions and leave your machine in Neutral... as mine did the second time I used it. Better make sure you know what you are doing if you want to attempt this. If you are parked on a hill and accidentally stick it in between gears, you will roll (obviously you have brakes!), I do not recommend doing this, but it did work for me to trouble shoot my 4X4 problems until I replaced the motor (which now only cost about $50-60USD.

angelarisner
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Great video! I finally did this and it works well. It Takes some practice to get a feel for it since no light indicators work. I put my fuse where I could reach it easily and then pull the fuse until snow is coming to kill the circuit until needed. Thanks again I would have probably not tried this without your vid.

timames
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I've never removed the GEM module so don't know how much trouble it is. But before going to all the trouble of installing a whole new switch that may or may not work properly, the transfer case relay/module is right up behind the tach, under the dash. There is also a switch/relay to the right under the snap-in oval piece on top of the passenger side dash.
If you turn on your 4WD switch and you hear that switch going on and off but you don't hear the relay clicking or it only clicks intermittently, you probably have a bad relay. If the switch under the oval piece isn't clicking it's more than likely that part.
Both are easy to get to.
For the switch just pop the oval piece and there it is.
For the relay it's a bit tougher but even on your first try it shouldn't take more than a half hour in and out. You pop the stereo surround and duct piece out. Then you pop the yoke over the steering column out. Remove the light switch assembly [look up how to do it] and remove about six screws and pop the headlight/instrument cluster surround out. Remove six more screws and pop the dash top off. Voila, there's the module sitting right on top. $30-40 bucks for one on ebay. Probably much less in a junkyard.
Only having 4Lo if you're going any distance or you're on the highway in the snow is a real pain.
Whether the switch in the video will harm the motor I don't know. I do know the factory switch is only hot for a moment to shift the transfer case and then turns off. When the switch in this video is on it stays hot even after the transfer case is shifted.

Mudpuppyjunior
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just did this today on my bosses plow truck and it worked you're the man!

htcooley
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I added air line inside cab. And can engage and disengage the front hubs from cab. It is like the ole days.

butchthurman
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The front solenoid vacc valves can stay on the engaged position all the time, it won't hurt anything but fuel economy just little. It would be really easy to just put a switch to the ground side of them to have them engage and disengage front differential. Can ask how if want to that.

MrFerrill
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4 years later and I'm doing this tonight!! Thanks

patriotrob
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the gem is behind the fuse panel.. it all comes out as one piece. not a big deal. its bolted to the back of the fuse panel

ndspeedster
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Good video and anyway you can avoid dash removal is a thumbs up.

patricknorton
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Hey did you disconnect the other two wires from the motor

glengabourel
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I have a 07 f 150. we had to replace a wiring harness. it operates the 4x4. it went to the iwe solenoid. we could only find a 2 wheel drive wiring harness. would this video work on my truck to? How would I get the iwe solenoid to work?

migratorygame
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Good video but keep in mind if the transfer case motor is bad still want work

WalterMashburn
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I may have to do this. I have tried replacing the twin relay under the dash with a new one due to no clicking and 4x4 doing nothing when switch is switched checked and solenoids both good. I dont think its the gem because everything else works. The relay was only 13 on amazon and took about 30 min to get off the truck and 5 to desolder and desolder. The next thing I think it may be is the sensor unit beside the actuator motor any comment would be greatly appreciated

justindoe
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does the rpm gauge still work? thinking about doing this to my 89 bronco with electric button shifting

Drozyboi
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so i just bought this truck. literally this truck. and i cant get it over 35mph. the switch isnt making the 4x4 engage. idk what the deal is. what do i do?

dillonwarren
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What size or amp fuse we can use for it???

alexandercundapi