Easy Metal Casting - Pouring Liquid Pewter into a Silicone Mold

We've done pewter casting in the past, but we're really starting to get a lot better at it. Check out our new, improved techniques PLUS some testing with lower heat resistance silicone.

Links

RAC Props Blade Runner Kit Playlist

Original Kit by RAC Props

Tools & Materials

Mold Max 60 Heat Resistant Silicone - Amazon

Mold Max 30 - Amazon

Laser Thermometer - Amazon

Hot Plate/Burner - Amazon

Pewter Ingot - Amazon

123 Blocks - Amazon

Aluminum Tape - Amazon

Form 2 3D Printer - Formlabs

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[SatanSupimpa]

I think none of you are left handed, so the modification made on the pot to pour the metal would probably work better on the opposite side.

[RaymondOreFineArt]

I remember a long time ago I was always without the right returnable coin to release a shopping trolly so I cast one out of pewter using plasticine for a mold, the fine detail was terrible but it actually worked, I used it for years.

[KentuckyFriedGamers]

I always pre-heat my molds prior to pouring, it helps.

[HotDzign]

Another great video!
Just FYI, a friend who owns a company dealing in industrial heating and heat monitoring equipment, told me that type of thermometer will give you inaccurate readings from reflective surfaces, like shiny pots or molten mettle.

[jeffreywarrenpark]

Rather than talc, you can get better, (& shinier), results using powdered graphite to powder and release the mould.

[andrewpackham]

Thanks for showing the results of the low temp silicone, I've always used plaster moulds for pouring metal, not ideal!

[ndarkness]

Another great video! If you pre-heat the mold with either a couple of casts or in a toaster oven at 300° and will also help with detail.

[grimwurks]

could you put a link for the silicon mold material? I have been casting pewter for 30 years and have a couple of suggestions . . . I use hardboard for my mold plates and an adjustable clamp rather than the rubber bands. I think if you are doing multiple casts the aluminium plates will get too hot to handle. The graphite coating works great, I got a locksmiths rubber squeeze bulb and buy my graphite by the pound, way cheaper. The casting pot you have in the background and the pour ladle are for bullet molding, but you can get a casting pot with a pour spigot and eliminate the ladle. The benefit of the casting pot is being able to maintain a constant temperature throughout the process and not burn the casting metal . . . you don't want to be breathing vaporised metals!!! love your videos and watch them all the time, keep up the great work!

[smoothon]

Great video! Thanks for posting guys!

[DavidGuyton]

ohhhh I had no idea this was possible. I will definitely be using this technique in the future

[dfcprops]

You make it look so easy! Something I probably won't try for a while, but it's definitely good to know for the future. Both of you do an excellent job on the channel.

[Keep-Making]

I've worked with pewter several times and I knew that the melting point was low but WOW! I have no idea that I could use it in a silicone mold... I've been using wood molds all this time. Thanks so much for the insight.

[SilverTigerPower]

thank you for showing the mistakes! a lot of people forget about that when making a tutorial that you can't do trial and error off screen and have it be perfect when you put it on because when others try it and inevitably fail the first time, now they can see why

[PrimalEdge]

awesome video.... I have no idea why I'm so addicted to casting videos.

[createscifi]

Besides my sci-fi projects, I also do a bit of Ren Faire type projects this is going to up my medieval prop game! hahaha sweet video! thx Bill

[cattaraugustonawanda]

Not a great casting but you're on the right track. 1st you need to make your mold so that the clamping surfaces are FLAT and PARALELL, the edges don't matter. Moldmax 60 is OK but Dow Corning 3120 is more economical and easier to mix accurately. Temperature of the pewter needs to be about 600degF. With the pewter at casting temperature you need to dust with talc and w/o closing the mold pour pewter on the mold cavities a few times to warm up the mold. Hot mold is the rule. To assemble the mold the aluminum plates are great but need to be clamped LIGHTLY with some sort of screw clamp or vise.Next you need to flux the mold using 20 Mule Team Borax. Just a pinch in the melt pot. Use a ladle to skim the dross to the side of the pot and dip the ladle and pour into the mold. Talc can be applied by putting it in a athletic sock and pounced on the mold. Teflon can be used as core material to form holes in the casting. Look at info on sand casting about use of cores since same theory applies. Make sure your sprue is long and tapered since it provided pressure on the metal in the mold cavity. Factors that effect the casting quality include part orientation, metal temperature, venting, etc. Hope that helps.

[MakeBrooklyn]

That was awesome and yes, pouring molten metal on a wood table, probably not optimal. I particularly loved the end screen, melting the pewter out of your 123 block. :)

[Grimmers]

Really enjoy the slightly improv/learning-process style.

[solomonheppner]

Funnel? Love the ingenuity with the pour spout and adjustments.

[Corbald]

Nice detail on the knurling right off the Form 2! Gotta love that SLS!