Multi directional gear placement with opposed stoppers

Here's a quick way to make a multi directional placement out of two opposing stoppers. By passing the sling twice around the upper carabiner and then pulling on it, the extra friction helps maintain tension. This also works in a horizontal crack.
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[TheSilentStar]

Finally some useful reminders of old school engineering logic. Thank you, Subscribed!

[trevorlsadler]

Great video. I see this as very useful if your first placement is a stopper and your belayer is not directly below you. I've heard stories of a leader placing all nuts, but when he/she falls the nuts start ripping out from the bottom of the route up to the top all because the angle of the rope from the belayer to the first piece is not verticle. Say maybe on a 45 degree angle due to the first part of the climb being low angle then becoming verticle, or having an unknowingly belayer being to far from the wall. Once the first piece (bottom one) pops, the 45 degree angle translates to the next peice up the wall, rotating the stopper upward causing this one to rip. And this continues all the way up. I like a cam to be my first piece since they can rotate and are less likely to rip out if rotated upward. If you've climbed trad long enough, you've probably seen this happen, maybe not in a fall but when you're belaying and the leader "TAKES" and the first piece is being pulled straight out then comes sliding down the rope. Your method would eliminate this danger. Nicely done!

[joshuacilliers]

Seems that people just see a sling and a hitch and suddenly think it's meant to be an anchor :D very nice an concise clip, will be checking this technique out more.

[thegingerpowerranger]

this is a rare gem of a video on the cess pool that is now YouTube. hasn't been good content like this since Mike Barter stopped posting

[snowman]

Now try to do it with one hand and the other in a finger crack

[Govanification]

I love your blog. Sorry youtube commenters are so annoying. Please keep putting out great content!

[georgeluebkeman]

super curious about the application for this. if the anchor is being loaded down, and the top nut fails, the bottom will also fail because it will be loaded from an unfavorable direction. anchors are meant to be redundant, and this would take far too long/take too much energy on lead as a placement. please enlighten me!!

[GregSidberry]

Nice trick with the hitches. I'd mostly be concerned about increased forces, but keeps both pieces from walking. Might be helpful for lead solo, but usually just overhand or clip both

[tainopr]

Beautifully done!
Thanks for the video 👍🏽

[ricardobecerril]

Super great thanks will be using this weekend

[WalterNeser]

If the lower point fails, the sling will slide through your "knot" and you’re done. use a clove hitch instead...
This halves the load on your upper anchor under a downward force, and places most of the load on the upper anchor where it should be.
With a clove hitch, if the lower fails, even if the hitch slides, it will stop when the lower beener reaches the hitch.
With the clove hitch, in a upward force, it functions the same as your version / as intended.

[floyyz]

Люди, можете подсказать. Что делать если при использовании узал уиаа, при спуске сильно греется карабин, так должно быть, не расплавит ли карабин верёвку при резком спуск и остановке? Подскажите пожалуйста

[youtooyoutoo]

The upper biner simply has 2 turns of the loop for friction (NOT a hitch), until the ONLY half-hitch as a finish. The exaggerated demonstration of separating of the connecting strands is misleading (& unneeded). The mentioned 'friction' is entirely due to the first turn being placed on top of the 2nd turn, before snugging for the half-hitch finish. If the “friction does not hold nicely”, (common with shiny new gear) while snugging, pinch the turns to provide more friction while finishing with a one handed half-hitch. I hope this clarifies.

[tom.]

I wouldn't say it's great for outward or sideways pulling, since the vector between the two nuts would increase load on each nut, not decrease.

[OllyBoardy]

I liked the half hitch because I'm guessing there would be potential for a bit of mechanical advantage making extra force if it wasn't there 👌

[markp]

I thought knots in slings were advised against due to heat and uneven loading of the web if you fell and tightened it.

[erikbird]

What’s the benefit of having a multi directional placement? This seems to mitigate walking but is there any other reason? You are not going to fall up lol

[albertos]

Does the knot not halve the tightness of the tape?

[joshgarth]

Soon as he pulls it tight...(Whips out box cutter and cuts of the rest or the "excess")..😂😂😭😅

[Doctor_Yuri]

I too enjoy making my follower unlock a puzzle when I'm ready to go.