Top 10 Car Soundproofing Products That Actually Work! DIY

Making a car quiet can be difficult if you don't have the right soundproofing product to do the job right! These are all the best vehicle sound deadeners and soundproofing products on the market today!

These car soundproofing DIY tips will make a car quiet and more comfortable. These products are from car soundproofing foams to the recommended car soundproofing spray. I will also talk about a couple of products that you would never have thought of as a soundproofing product.

Here is an Amazon list of links for all the recommended soundproofing and car sound deadening material I talk about in this video.

Here are more videos regarding car soundproofing and vehicle sound deadening material test and car soundproofing before and after.

Bear in mind that some of the links in this video are affiliate links, and if you go through them to make a purchase, I will earn a commission at no extra cost to you.

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[charlesbrown]

I noted only 9 products; not 10. Could you print a list for copy? Thanks! Very resourceful/useful to vehicle owner.

[aaronsprojects]

Imagine sound deadening your car just to find out that the noise is your engine knocking. 🤣

[BlatentlyFakeName]

I used noico on my Lotus Elise hard roof which resonated quite a lot with engine noise. It made quite a big difference. You don't need to cover the whole thing to improve NVH.

[STV-HH]

I really enjoyed the mentioning of temperature control being important and a second later the little kid is being held hostage in the car and it shows how much the little tyke is enjoying the moment!

Also, I want to mention the oil changing in the first few minutes of this video. I can’t remember another sound deadening video that includes this priceless moment of real and effective means to make every possible effort to keep the cars external sounds to a minimum. Bravo!

And using as much of the product as the manufacturer was able to produce in a full shift, that assured that the company would continue to grow into the next fiscal quarter!

[mjdedge]

Several years ago I took out the floor carpet of my Ford Escort to put 2 layers of wood floor underlay underneath - The car felt so much more quiet and luxurious after that LOL - Nice and quiet. I would have done the headliner too if I'd thought of it!

[simsneon]

You could always use a low pile carpet 3M adhesive to the inside of your fender wells to keep down sound from the road as well a lot of high-end cars such as Mercedes Volvos and certain BMWs have this and they’re fender wells

[chrisbooge]

There are several problems with this video. First at least four of your ten sound proofing products are just different manufacturers of the same aluminum backed butyl sheets. Second you listed flex seal as a sound dampening material its a realy sticky tape but not a sound dampening material. Three you repeatedly said that aluminum backed butyl sheets reduce sound levels in a car it does not (buy a db meter test it for your self) it does dampen the vibrations of the sheet metal helping to lower its resonance frequency down to an inaudible frequency as well as reduced the transfer of vibrations. But bang for your buck its not going to be your first choice to lower the ambient sound level in your car. Mass loaded vinyl is a good choice, high density foam is a decent choice. You mentioned using wool carpet pad and thats a good choice and is a product already used by auto manufacturers its called jute carpet padding and can be found at upholstery supply stores or Amazon.

[tjonesauto]

I've used kilmat on several Ford e350 shuttle Vans for limo service. Road noise significantly reduced. I also installed behind front fenders, firewall and hood underside. I ran a few strips on the frame and coated with clear coat to waterproof. Big difference.

[robertprice]

The most underrated soundproofing material is spray foam insulation. I have used good stuff and DAP foam insulation inside body panels to cut down sound transfer. This works well in pillars, and wheel well areas. The foam will pernitrates into areas you cannot put peal and stick sound deadeners. In the cargo area of vehicles there are a lot of tight spaces where foam works well. I would also begin with a spray on undercoat. Most of the road noise will come from the wheels on the road and the exhaust drone along with wind noise under the car.

[joshm]

One thing that I've noticed making a big difference is getting the windows tinted. I'm guessing the film helps to decrease vibrations coming through the glass.

[allicks]

I have successfully removed a LOT of drone noise and NVH (noise, vibration and harshness) from my car after doing four things that made a big difference. (And I had like everyone else started off by trying to get things quiet using butyl mats/dynamat etc. I realised that that had a very limited effect and beginners usually end up sticking down way too much of the stuff and later regret it because you start thinking how much you’ve weighed the car down by. And a year or three down the line you end up taking two thirds of it back out - or trying to). Here in England I run a 2011 Ford Mondeo (Fusion) estate/station wagon. MY FOUR BIG TIPS for INSTANTLY reducing noise (REMEMBER - you are NOT going to get your sub-$25thousand dollar car to hush like a Bentley. BUT - you can get a LONG way towards it.) NUMBER ONE - REPLACE YOUR TYRES. If you want quiet, you need to LIFT the car further away from the ground and have less tyre in contact with the ground. So run NARROWER tyres with a TALLER SIDE WALL and if you can a SMALLER RIM SIZE. I replaced my 215 55 R17 tyres with 205 65 R16 tyres on replaced 16 inch rims. This dramatically reduced the rolling drone of the tyres on the road and gave a softer ride because the taller side wall raised the car further above the ground as well as reducing the contact with the ground. Yes you will get less of a sporty ride but I’m not interested in a sporty ride. NUMBER TWO - INSERT SURGICAL TUBING into all your door seals. You need to improve resistance to outside sounds coming in. Adding surgical tubing into all your door seals makes them nice and snug. Don’t go TOO tight though - get the right tube width - or else you won’t be able to shut the doors and you’ll feel real dumb. NUMBER THREE - Buy cheap ‘RECON FOAM’ cut it up into small cubes and shove it compacted into all the empty cavities under the trim around the console, footwells and glove compartment. You wouldn’t believe how many just open holes there are in that area doing nothing but causing sound from the engine and up from the ground to reverberate around. Foam (NEVER USE SPRAY FOAM - it will enter places you really don’t want it to get and you will never get it out in the event of a repair requirement) dampens all that NVH and contributes to the multi-pronged solution we are going for. You need to do a LOT of things to add up to removing those decibels. NUMBER FOUR - Go to the back of the car. On most cars under the rear bumper on the left and right corner areas hidden away you will find a one-way ventilation flap on each side of the car. These are interior pressure flaps that allow air to escape from the car when the doors are closed and to allow ‘used’ air to escape from the cabin as new air enters from the front air vents. BUT they usually are located behind a very large cavity that sits adjacent to the rear wheel arches. In some cars you can reach into this large empty cavity through the back hole at the rear of the small felt door/closet you find in the left or right wall of the boot/trunk - the little hidden hole you might put an emergency traffic cone or yellow jacket in for example. I discovered these cavities causes a LOT of droning noise. The noise from the rear wheel comes straight through them, reverberates and comes out through the interior rear air escape vents. FILL ONE OF THESE CAVITIES UP! Don’t fill both - you need one to maintain the ability to release the cabin air pressure remember - and often the fuel fill area prevents access to one of the cavities depending on if you have a left or right hand drive. But if you can get access to one side - fill it up tight with old rags, recon foam, old carpet that can be scrunched up - you want as much as possible to remove cavity space that creates reverb. Use anything not too heavy but DENSE. So recon foam, being more dense, is a lot better at dampening and muffling drone than, say, bubble wrap. Pack it in tight - and there’s room for a LOT of foam and rags in there. The more you stuff in the quieter you'll get. This for me REMOVED 80 to 90% of the heavy drone in the back of the car - which had been particularly irksome on long motorway journeys. NUMBER FOUR POINT ONE (!) Not essential but this improved my car dramatically - If your car is one of those that tilts down slightly towards the front end (to allow for the backend to dip slightly and the car to even out when the trunk is fully loaded) buy a pair of polyurethane lifting spacers to sit at the top of your front struts. Your garage can fit them for about $250. They again move the front end higher off the ground, away from the noise of the road. So coupled with the tyres we’re really changing how close we are to the noise of the road. Plus they make the car sit more evenly and look a lot better... SO These are my main tips for really getting to a quieter, pleasant drive. And they have really worked for me. I wish you all the best with your own particular car - every one has its quirks and every one will have slightly different solutions. It's a lot of sometimes unpleasant work, but persevere and you can get a nice result.

[michaelsoutdoorlife]

The main thing to remember when sound deadening and sound proofing your vehicle is using more than type of material. For instance you need to use the foil backed products but also should use a similar sheet product with acoustical foam. Then you should focus on how its installed, meaning taping the seams and pressing the mats forcefully with rollers to promote adhesion and proper noise cancelation. And don't fall for name recognition you will overpay for that name, there is so many products that are the same or better than those big names at a way more affordable price. Trust that you will need lots of material to properly complete the installation process and saving money because of a name on a box will help make the process more affordable and make sure you get the results you expect.

[theneuz]

I go to bunnings and buy grunt brand flashing tape, its aluminium foil and butyl backed adhesive and costs only $8, comes in strips about 8cm wide and about 3.5 metres long . It is really really good for the price, about 3 rolls will do doors, parcel shelf and boot . Just tap the metal and white it sounds thin and tinny put a strip, afterwards it sounds like a solid thud . Can't beat the price or quality as its bit thicker than dynamat

[robertfant]

I'm learning a lote about the material and the quality of that material is essential to a good process.

[matmichalke]

I use killmat, they have 2 thickness available and the thicker is a bit better and I have had really good results and I use it because I add amps and subwoofers to my car which create vibration

[Sith_dude]

To reduce the most noise, don't let your mother in law in the car. 😂😂😂

[tktt]

Soundproofing =/= sound damping. Most products in this review are damping materials and help reduce panel rattling by adding weight. This reduces the resonant frequency of the panel. They do block a small amount of noise but the material used by car manufacturers to block noise is MLV (mass loaded vinyl). It’s a thick heavy rubbery material which is typically dark grey or black. You can see it under your car’s carpet especially in the footwell area on the firewall. There are a couple sound proofing car companies that sells it. I’ve used it in a few vehicles and the results are great. Use the dampening in this video to cover 25% of your panels and then cover the areas with MLV. Your car will be much quieter.

[robinhoodgarage]

Dr. Detroit Metal treatment is one of the best products to reduce the noise from the engine. Been using it for 30 years

[braxton]

unless its a very small car or you use a ridiculous amount you shouldn't worry about the weight theres no way youd add more weight than a adult passenger. if your adding sound insulation its obviously not a race car so dont worry about 25 50 lbs a audio system weighs more.

[deankay]

Be warned that using anything in the doors will eventually hold water and accelerate rusting. Even many spray-on products get hard, crack and cause rust as well. Never used the shredded cloth type materials as they work like sponges under wet or snow covered feet on floors or inside doors.
Where the glass meets the paint, if the glass moves, that is a belt mounding and are designed with a felt like material. If worn or missing, the moving window will stick bad or stop moving. These cannot seal water out completely. This is true with most floors when snow melts. Under the rocker panels and doors, you will find drain holes spaced across the panel. Without them or plugged up with debris from leaves from trees, the panel will hold water. It is the same at the backside lower section of the front fenders behind the plastic panels. In front of the windshield is a high pressure area for air while driving. It is funneled into the cabin of most vehicle when fresh air or mix is selected. Fine, but leaves, tree seeds and other material get in there and if not plugging up drainage paths, then this material collects, holds moisture and rust out the cabin corner and back side of fenders. I had a single customer who complained or water-like noise and ground the drain holes where plugged on the passengers door that was never used. It had about 30 gallons of water inside the door and drained for an hour after cleaning with small hook and compressed air to get the materials out. Hope this helps. ASE Master Tech since 1978 - Retired.