Ditra Heat, electric floor heat how to install it start to finish

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Ditra Heat, how to install it start to finish. Ditra Heat is a floor warming system made by Schluter, it is a three component system consisting of the Ditra Mat, the cable system and the thermostat, it comes in both 120, and 240 volt. The Ditra mat for the Ditra heat is configured in such a way that the heat wire can be easily inserted and routed through the mat to heat the desired areas, in this case the whole floor was heated, but can also be used to heat different zones. The Ditra mat is installed the same way as the regular Ditra uncoupling membrane, and serves the same function with the added capability of accepting the heat wire. One important difference is that a ¼” square notched trowel is used to spread the thinset instead of the regular Ditra trowel. Once the mat has been installed, the wire can be routed into the mat. The heating cable must be placed no closer than 3” from the wall, and 8” from a heat source, (Hot are vent, base board heat, etc.). The cable and probes must be tested with the appropriate meters before they installed, after they have been placed in the mat, and after the tile has been installed to retain the warranty. All the directions are included with the system. All tile installed by Sal DiBlasi, Elite-tile Company, in the Boston North Shore area. This video contains affiliate links, which means I will receive a small commission if you click on the product link.
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Thank you so much for breaking this down step by step- going to instal this myself under a pebble floor and considering running three separate ditra heat sections through the entire ground floor of my otherwise I heated cabin in the mountains

elisabompadre
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I really wish I could have worked for you, and learned from you. Your a fantastic teacher.

katzfam
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Love the fact that your videos are detailed.keep it up

khaledacar
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Fantastic Sal. Great overview. Thank you for such a thorough review!

tdhollan
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Can I put the Schluter heat cable type pad on an Oatey membrane? I prefer the continuous Oatey membrane for its waterproofing advantages. I am installing a curbless shower. Plan to recess my floor, cover it with tarpaper then a sloped mortar bed toward a linear drain. Membrane will go on top of mortar and direct water into the drain. I will use approved adhesive to hold the membrane securely. Pan will be approximately 60w x 36, not sure if wire mesh is critical in mortar? Trying to keep the height of the tile in the pan as low as practical after accounting for the slope and thickness of all the components. Hoping to hear that thinset between the Oatey membrane and the Schluter pad is acceptable. Please advise.

mrfrank
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Val, the basic difference as I understand it is that modified thinsets are exactly that.. modified with agents to help bonding between your tile and substrate (cement, osb plywood, etc).  the replaced unmodified thinsets many years ago to aid in bonding, drying time, moisture control, etc.   (seemed like a marketing thing to me at that time).   It also changes drying time and integrity of the mortar bond/strength, and the reason for "non modified" for tile to coupling membrane is that Schluter has designed it to set tile better with non modified.    The under side uses modified to grab the felt backing and bond to OSB flooring.  Note concrete uses different mortar than wood.   I would ask a Menards associate for examples of each type they carry, then do your online research about how good each is or find reviews of them.

ninjaryderst
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Thanks! I enjoyed watching your videos

andrewchannell
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It is possible to to use regular Ditra and plow a curved line with a router into which you press the cable. It compromises the Dita a little. But you have complete control of how long and where the cable runs to.

kevinhornbuckle
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This is what a modern master craftsmen looks like. Thank you for the video.

aaronmatthews
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What's with the spinning around at 2:15?

paradoxdea
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Thanks sal. I'm doing the same project right now, but I've only done the traditional heated floors that are imbedded in self leveling. Very helpful. When ever I have doubts about something, I just check out your videos. It's great to know there are knowledgeable installers out there who don't cut corners.

andreysheyfer
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I was wondering, why the heat vents weren't removed or at least the one on the floor in the main traffic area rerouted into the wall so that some one in bare feet wouldn't trip on it. Doesn't this system produce enough heat to comfortably heat this room without the use of a forced air system? I am converting an attached single car garage into a bed sitting room and am exploring various ways of heating this space as I can't run forced air without open the floor to the main house easily. I like this system but if it doesn't produce enough comfortable heat I may have to look at baseboard heating instead. I would appreciate your take on this. Thanks and very good video by the way.

AnMadreMor
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Found it, looks like the 50 lb bag was for larger trowel size for tile to coupling membrane.  

ESTIMATED THIN-SET COVERAGE
To bond DITRA-HEAT to the substrate:
Use one 50 lb. (22.68 kg) bag of mortar per
100 ft2 (9.3 m2).

To bond the tile to the DITRA-HEAT, using a
1/4" x 3/8" (6 mm x 10 mm) square- or
U-notched trowel: Use one 50 lb (22.68 kg) bag
of mortar per 40 - 50 ft2 (3.7 - 4.6 m2).

To bond the tile to the DITRA-HEAT, using a 1/2"
x 1/2" (13 mm x 13 mm) square- or U-notched
trowel: Use one 50 lb (22.68 kg) bag of mortar
per 30 - 40 ft2 (2.8 - 3.7 m2).

ninjaryderst
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Way more fun than heat cable in self leveling compound!

binnsh
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2 meters for reading resistance and continuity: when they die out on you, just replace it with a good multi-meter that will do all those and more.

limogesfarmer
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Dude your awesome as hell, Damn great installer and man period.

crossroads
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I am watching many of you videos... Love them...
I am want to put this in my RV .. Class A... 31'...
Killing 2 birds with one stone... The heating in the floor... and the tile.
Would you recommend this in an RV...
I have lay down Tile before in houses... I flip old houses and RVs.. I'm on my 25th one right now.
but I have never used Ditra... but it looks great, and I think it would be better than the old way, especially since it is on plywood substrate.

judichristopher
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Sal, I had my bathroom all planned out with Ditra Heat and now I read that it's not really for heating the room, just the floor. That's not something that Schluter makes apparent. It seems like a lot of trouble and expense to go through just to keep your toes warm. I'm wondering now if I should even bother. The mats are down, but I haven't installed the cable or thermostat. Should I just put an electric radiator in instead? It's a small bathroom, 9"x 7', on a concrete slab in an unheated garage. The walls are all well insulated and the rooms above it are heated.

markk
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Someone I know put the heat system right over plywood how would you install tile over that ? Detra is best and you need a sub floor especially under plywood

Sugarshane
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Your videos are great! Thanks for sharing your knowledge. When I see your name behind a video, I know it's trustworthy info! This will help me immensely when I do my bathroom floor.

justmemarc