Stripped Bolt Threads Repair STRONGER CHEAPER *NEW easy WAY*

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Aluminum, Steel, Cast iron, Stainless etc all repaired with ease.

Stuff I used in the video:

After Thoughts about the Video: Yes, my eyeballomometer is off and I drilled the top hole slightly crooked. There are plenty of techniques I would have utilized if this was a real repair. I do think this is stronger and a more reliable repair than the Heli-coil spring. Use a standard taper tap too allow the repair sleeve to lock in on a blind and thru hole. Grade 5, 8 and higher bolts start to get nearly impossible to hand tap and there's a chance you'll break a tap or start to remove the repair insert. Grade 2 is generally far stronger than the material your threading into. Loctite primer: mainly just speeds up curing time but isn't necessary. Loctite also isn't 100% necessary, it just adds reassurance. I put approx 8 dimples on each bolt but you can do even more if you're concerned there wasn't enough locking force when you screw it in.

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65 Ford 65Ford SFF
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Stuff I used in the video:



After Thoughts about the Video: Yes, my eyeballomometer is off and I drilled the top hole slightly crooked. There are plenty of techniques I would have utilized if this was a real repair. I do think this is stronger and a more reliable repair than the Heli-coil spring. Use a standard taper tap too allow the repair sleeve to lock in on a blind and thru hole. Grade 5, 8 and higher bolts start to get nearly impossible to hand tap and there's a chance you'll break a tap or start to remove the repair insert. Grade 2 is generally far stronger than the material your threading into. Loctite primer: mainly just speeds up curing time but isn't necessary. Loctite also isn't 100% necessary, it just adds reassurance. I put approx 8 dimples on each bolt but you can do even more if you're concerned there wasn't enough locking force when you screw it in.


SUPPORT THE CHANNEL or support the SHOP DOG's treat addiction:




65 Ford 65Ford SFF

sixtyfiveford
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Can we all agree, your pup is the star of the show!!

shootinglaser
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Good tip! If you chuck the bolts up in a drill press with a drill bit in a vise below the bolt (think vertical lathe, workpiece spins, drill stays stationary), you could center drill the bolt before you install it. I do this by first chucking the drill bit in the drill press upside down, then clamp it in my drill press vise and unchuck it. That gets the drill bit in perfect alignment with the spindle. Then I chuck the bolt up and drill away. You may need to grind the bolt head flat so the drill bit doesn't walk around on the markings on the bolt head. This would guarantee the hole would be perfectly centered and true and would also be one less operation to do in place.

jaredshaffer
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I've done that "homemade helicoil", and it worked great!

I drilled & tapped the center of the insert bolt before installing. I used a drill press "backward" to ensure the hole was centered, with the bolt in the chuck & the drill bit in the vice.

Timing belt tensioner on a Honda J30…
It held together until the car was totalled (over 10 years).

Iowa
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There are actually 3 types of taps, tapered, plug & bottoming. You should start with a tapered so that the threads will be square to the mating surface. The tap you are using is a plug tap. That is the common type found in kits. For blind holes you need the bottoming tap. A helicoil is a good repair for aluminum because the OD of the helicoil is roughly the equivalent of the next size bolt. On the steel insert sleeves: We used a type in aviation that had 2 stakes on each side to keep it from backing out when you remove the bolt. They take some special tools & are not an option for general use due to the cost. If you use a steel insert & the insert backs out when you remove the bolt you can be in a world of hurt. We used them in aluminum & titanium.

larryhutchens
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This really is one of the best channels around. Thank you for all your hard work in sharing!

gadsdenconsulting
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Ingenious method for when your in a bind or broke. A situation I find myself in quite frequently. Dude, your hand sharpening for that drill bit was impressive. Eyecrometer was spot on that day.👀

ThacMan
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When you put the cover back on to spot the bolts to mark for center, use transfer punch to mark center, take cover back off then use w cent3r drill instead of a drill this way you won't wall of you mark.
Just my $.02 worth coming from a retired machinist of 40 years experience.
Keep the vids coming to Pittsburgh Pa

beachbums
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I do this every day. Some tips. Mcmaster carr has a great selection of threaded inserts if you don't want to do the extra work. Forget heli-coils, they suck. Once you grind it flat and put the cover on, use a transfer punch to punch the exact center instead of the drill bit. Next use a center drill on that punch mark. Then use the tap drill. To keep the holes square, I use a drill/tap guide. Its a block of steel with all the different size holes in it for drilling and tapping nice and straight/square. These items can be found. . Transfer punch set, center drill, drill block. search for them. Nice job on sharpening the drill bits by hand. It's a valuable skill that seems to be lost. I prefer to use a flat belt sander. Everyone has a preference. 👍✌

oantech
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You are absolutely one of the greatest “Grass Roots” mechanics, engineers, welders, metallurgists, and downright cool-ass dudes in the world. If I need to do something out of the ordinary and get into the head-scratching moment of how I’m gonna do it…. I absolutely check your channel FIRST. I go to you for the knuckle busting knowledge, and “AvE” channel for side busting comedy and knowledge. The video you made that saved the day for me, was how to un-warp a cylinder head with a torque-plate and careful application of heat. I had an extremely rare cylinder head allegedly “bEyOnD rEpAiR”, and thanks to that video, it’s held up for 65k miles so far. Thank you for all your hard work in the trenches to bring us these awesome videos. You’re a true rockstar! 🤘🏻😋🤘🏻

BlackwaterDSM
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I think I'm pretty clever with my innovative repair techniques but this man is always two steps ahead.

chrissscottt
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Makita, dewalt AND milwaukee, no segregation with this guy!

slickrick
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Another excellent tip from one of the best channels on YouTube! I've done this successfully multiple The only thing different that I do, is drill/thread the insert on a lathe prior to installing- Great job and thanks!

ls
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All the tips are GREAT. I must admit, I've fixed a lot of stripped threads, and re-tapped a lot of holes that had frozen bolts in them and I learned a lot from this video!

waltschannel
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One of the best channels on YouTube for sure. You have so much practical real world advice. I appreciate all of your tips and things you have shared. And I love Ginger!

garrettnelson
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Love your channel, I walk away every video with a new simple solution. Locking bolt by using a punch on the threads is genius!

mrmerhtin
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Excellent stuff. I worked for some major Aerospace suppliers coming up with repairs like this. Always impressive to see different and creative ways to handle screw-ups! Thank you!

paulcoonce
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I cannot believe how simple and obvious this was. Right in our face this whole time. You sir are a genius. Thank you for taking the time to show us this amazing trick. Take care and God bless.

Jay_Ira
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Exactly the video I needed at the right time. Brass bleeder adapter broke on my atv caliper and I was trying find a way to fix it.

abels_
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He's smarter than you think! Playing dead is embarrassing to him. The improvised thread repair was what we did on Sunday afternoons in the 1960s when no stores were open to get parts. Good Luck, Rick

richardross