RGB mod VS Component Video on a Consumer Grade TV

Here's a comparison of stock component video inputs on a Toshiba 20AF42 consumer-grade TV, vs an RGB mod on that same TV.

Follow me everywhere @retrorgb

[mikematei]

I am here watching this in 2021. Ever decide if RGB is better than component since this? 😎

[nemesis]

What a great video! Thanks for explaining everything, including how you do the tests, in such detail!

[kayanel]

Great video. This is the kind of videos that I love to see. If you can make a followup video that explains the exact reason why the RGB vs YPbPr looks different, then you are the best! RetroRGB is the best for this kinds of things! Keep it up 👍

[vincentt]

I’m so happy that in France we had only scart rgb plug since 80’s. I kept my old CRTs it’s so good with a good console mod.

[Azoic]

Guess it depends on the tv.

On my sony that I rgb modded my snes is a bit dull running rgb but I also modded my snes for component and it looks way sharper with better colors but awesome video, very interesting.

[UpcycleElectronics]

Here bc Dave posted a link in an EEVblog community comment on his channel.
Subscribed. Thanks.
-Jake

[guspaz]

I wonder how different the RGB and Component inputs would look if they were calibrated. For example, if you lower the saturation and brightness on the TV when using the component input, how close to the RGB image does it get?

[MBOFOYH]

Great video. I still see what appears to be noise from the power supply on your TV. That line that moves down the screen. I had the same issue and it bothered me when I considered game capture. I eliminated it on my CRT by using the "perfect" power supply. I bought several different AC to DC 9v SNES power supplies, but each time I saw noise moving down the screen, and no AC to DC power supply I bought would solve the problem. Yesterday I was so excited when the problem was solved, that I didn't bother to turn off the fan before I recorded the video, but of course the sound isn't what's important in my video, it's the video signal, and it's finally perfect. My original SNES power supply and first original SNES were stolen in 2014 along with all my games. Experts told me I needed more amperage and or voltage in order to fix the problems, due to flash cartridges using more power than regular SNES cartridges. I did see one difference between using original SNES cartridges and the flash cartridge in the graphics, but that was unchanged by fixing the power problem.
In Part 1 (my failed attempt to get rid of the noise) I show how the original game does not have the graphics issue that I have with the FXPAK PRO... but it's only on one game on later levels. In Part 2 I show my "Perfect" power supply, that fixed all my issues, except for the one game I mentioned on the FXPAK PRO.
These two videos will be out next wee on my channel September 14th and 15th. Due to living situations these videos were not recorded in the best environments, or with the best equipment, but new recording hardware should be arriving next week for future videos. I hope to be making many videos soon.

Thanks to the people at Everdrive forums for their help, and to Everdrive.Me for supplying me with an FXPAK PRO as well as my other channel sponsors.

[VideoGameVictims]

Thanks for giving us the end-all be-all conclusion of component vs. RGB on consumer grade :)

[TehTechnoGuy]

photographer here: pro tip for capturing the screen with your dslr. I wouldn't go above f/8 on your aperture on almost any lens because something called 'diffraction' kicks in which basically makes the entire image softer. I'm assuming you're using the efs 24mm 2.8. If you do take more shots in the future, I suggest shooting somewhere between f/5.6-8. Good job syncing the camera sensor with the tv refresh rate by the way.

[budmuffin]

I understand that RGB has the best color accuracy since it’s separates the signal into the 3 colors.

[MeWantHoneycomb]

I'm realizing that white text is the main benefit of RGB over Component on an SDCRT. No matter what kind of adjustments, white text is always crisper (like viewing on a old IBM computer monitor or terminal screen), where other connections like s-vid and component are still as blurry as composite. If you have the time and know-how, I'd say go for RGB even if your TV has component.

[wolvenar]

I believe "bloom" is the term describing when the picture dimensions, (size) changes when the screen brighten (larger normally ) darkens (shrinks). Generally because of poorly managed voltages.

[almmironmaiden]

For the masses, s-video still to one to go for 240p content in consumer CRT tvs. Some consoles that have component, like ps2, wii, go for it, but the difference with s-video is minimal if you change some picture settings.

[uwehoeren]

Great Comparison. For me Component looks the Best here. But its a Matter of Taste.

[rodrigofilho]

For me:
RF -> RGB Mod
Composite -> RGB Mod
S-Video -> RGB Mod
Component -> Don't RGB Mod unless u have lots of free time.

[voltz]

I was double checking with another post that YUV vs RGB signals can produce the same quality, but you'd have to make fine adjustments to the display rather then just switching modes or plugging in different cables. I know from what I read YUV isn't a compressed signal like everyone is lead to believe, but runs as a mathematical equivalent and among all things given would require the display's recalibration due to the difference in color space.

I'm bringing this up because I'm starting to believe the necessity of needing to mod RGB over component may be a frivolous endeavor that needs to be given another look at. If I were to say your RGB vs YUV comparison is wrong, I'd like to look more into this.

[lukilladog]

Rgb shines the most on color to color transitions, black outlines diguise the other connections shortcomings.

[paulkoster]

Thanks for the valuable info. Good video.

[aaronsmith]

It's great that in the UK we had RGB because of the great picture, but we didn't really have composite until HD TVs came in, the biggest problem I am having is connecting HDMI to my RGB TV there is no straight RGB from HDMI, I am looking at getting a generic HDMI to YPbPr then using a bahar bros Garo (which I have already got)