BEST TIPS FOR BETTER PRINTS WITH PETG | Everything you need to succeed with PETG filament

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Alec is here to walk you through the best practices for 3D printing with PETG filament. Start using this durable and reliable 3D printing material today!

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"PETG is as easy to print with as pla"
- me after 20+ of trying to print a single thing in petg-
*screaming intensifies*

the-dbp
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I know this video is a bit old now, but I wanted to see if people got any better results with stringing issues. I'm currently using MH Pro PETG (on my second kg - and no matter the brand or type of filament, every roll gets its own EM calibrated). MH recommends 245+/-10C for this specific type of filament. After multiple adjustments to retraction settings, I couldn't get rid of the stringing and additional blobs. I went back to the basic tests for temp. Printed at 225C (with manageable but still annoying stringing, remedied with a heat gun leaving some blobs), then at 235C (with severe stringing, not fixing without significant post processing i.e. sanding, filing, etc.), and finally at 220C (with very minimal stringing, easily remedied with a heat gun). After dialing in the temp, I then fine tuned the retraction settings (Retraction Length: 1.6mm, Retraction Speed: 70mm/s, Retract on layer change, Wipe while retracting and Retract amount before wipe: 60%) in Prusa Slicer (v2.2.0), and ensured that I enabled 'avoid crossing perimeters' and set the seam position to random. The result was a near flawless, stringless print of the two column stringing test (commonly found on thingiverse). Printing on a stock Prusa i3 MK3 with latest FW. I'm not completely sure if a drop in temp like that is significant enough to affect strength properties; I don't have the equipment to test that, but hey, at least the stringing is taken care of! I hope this helps. Happy Printing!

TiiMELORDHD
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I think that strength test was a win for the PLA.

Aeleas
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I printed a 1x1 x 4 block and adjusted the temp from 260 down on a cr10s pro. .04 nozzle .... adjusted the temp down as it was printing and when I hit 245c. It cleaned right up and stopped stringing and the surface was nice and smooth. Bed temp 60c. No nozzle fan. PETG Pro from MatterHackers in Black .... hope this helps out.

robertavery
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I have a permanent reminder on my PEI build surface of how petg likes to weld itself to the build plate. Learned my lesson the hard way.

OneIdeaTooMany
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I have some Avistron German PETG and I am printing it at 217C through a PTFE lined hotend all day long. No problems and it works perfectly. Think it depends on the individual PETG you are printing. Great video as usual. Plus thanks for supporting Joel Telling.

ZebraandDonkey
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As a complete 3D printing newbie, I bought a Bambu A1 Mini a few weeks ago, and have printed dozens of models in PET-G with perfect results every time. And I simply selected ‘Generic PET-G’ in Bambu Studio, haven’t changed any settings. It’s fantastic. I don’t think I’ll buy any more PLA (which also prints perfectly BTW) because for me there seems to be no advantage over PET-G.

shavewithdave
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Nice how you hammer an PLA example with the hammer at already weaker "window" part compared to the PETG thing.
PETG is stronger, for sure, but that demonstration was rediculous.

maxx
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PETG has not had the thermal resistance I hoped for. I made a door hanger with it and it warped after one day in the summer heat under the sun

grantsorenson
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I know there is some good info here and it's a well made video. But dear lord those side burns are distracting as hell.

wingedsword
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I am new to 3d printing so I'm open to try different filaments. I have heard a lot of good things about PETG and you have convinced me that I should try it soon. Thank you for a continuing source of 3d knowledge.

slkgeothermal
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Ty so much Alec! You are the first person in my journey to solve this thought in my head . I know this is an older vid but I’ve looked through a few now and no one mentions supports with petg . I am designing something that will need supports and it’s my first print with petg . Besides a Cali cube literally my first . I feared it would weld too well so ty for the air gap info!!!

edwinirizarry
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I have an LK4 longer. It prints aba, and petg very well. 240, 80 bed, painters tape on the glass, little glue stick, make sure you get a good first layer and bam! Strong, glossy, layers well. Time consuming, but pretty good material all around.

piratestyleadventures
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I can say with 100% confidence that PETG stuff will not last in the car on a hot day. I made speaker pods and they melted and our outdoor temperature rarely gets above 33 degrees Celsius.

patronza
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I am a newbie printing a MPCNC with PETG on a stock Ende 5 pro. parts are coming out perfect.

mt.sinairefuge
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Just got an Ender 3 and was using PET-G as my first ever filament to experiment with and it has been difficult (1st layer difficult to stick/stringing/clogged my extruder once/ruined a would-be successful print because i didn't tighten my nozzle down enough after replacing nozzle allowing filament to extrude from the threads of the hot end). I've ordered some PLA to make life easier, will try the PET-G again once i become more experienced and maybe upgrade to an all metal hot end.

sejlefrew
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I run a Capricorn bowden tube on an Ender 3 pro and I print PETG at 240/245 on a powder coated PEI metal bed sheet works fine comes off no problem. I tried an all-metal hotend and it kept clogging I had to buy a cleaning tool that's 1.75mm to clear it after 3 times I went back to the bowden. I had tried the blue tape never would stick to the bed plate it would pull up if the part warped. With the PEI I ran at 80C bed temp solved the warpage.

scarsdale
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Sorry, but 245 is not the low end for PETG. I print PETG at 235 all the time with zero issues and strong layer adhesion. So, no, you do NOT need an all metal hot end to print PETG.

arcanum
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I got PETG as my first filament for my first 3d printer and I had been wracking my brain on why It didn't work. I then saw an article that said it required higher heat and slower speed to make. Would have saved me some time to research that first. But I guess I can't blame anyone but myself for that one.

sergon
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To be honest, I've been getting the best results with PETG with only 235' at the nozzel. Anything over that and it becomes far too stringy.

trueflightgaming