The shady truth about TANDY Leather

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[rickperkins]

I’d be the last guy to sing the praises of Tandy. I agree, they sell cheap stuff at high prices but so do a lot of retailers, bass pro shops comes to mind. But like so many others have already said, pricking irons are not to be hammered in. They are for marking not pounding. I have a set of stitching chisels I bought from Tandy years ago and they work just fine. Buy the correct tool for the job. Yes I understand a lot of people use pricking irons as stitching chisels. But as you have found out, you don’t always get away with it.

[chisum]

I have been leather working for almost 25 years. When I started Tandy was about it for supplies. The tools I bought 15 years ago al longer I still use, the tools bought 5-10 years ago are junk and in the trash. I might buy hardware from them once in a while but that's it. The quality and customer service they offer not is not worth my time to deal with.

[beijingbikinikill]

An American company’s Japanese punch made in China… my brain hurts

[davidcatoe]

It’s a pricking chisel, it’s not meant to punch holes, it’s meant to mark holes and then awl them.

[Rckerby]

I just had a problem with some beginners tools I bought from Tandy. I picked up 5 sets of punches and scissors etc. several of them broke immediately when my students began to use them. I emailed pictures to my local Tandy store (I had opened a ticket with the national Tandy service center who routed me) and the store manager just stuck a $60 gift card in the mail for me. I didn’t even have to show them my receipt. Just the pictures of my broken items.

They may fail in places, but so far in my experience they stood behind their products.

[asmith]

I still have the tools I got from our local Tandy shop in 1974. I've acquired more over the years, the store location has moved a few times, including some years when it was not around at all but the same guy has run the franchise since the beginning. I think they're great, never had an issue but there seems to be a lot of hate for Tandy Leather on YouTube. I've never bought that expensive stuff and it's just a hobby for me. I hope it all works out for you! Love the Weaver channel as well.

[danieljamesbinderystu]

Just an FYI, that is not " proper backing " for punching stitching holes!! I buy nothing but the highest quality pricking irons from Amy Roke, KS bladepunch, Sinabroks, Kevin Lee and Crimson Hides.... they are all made from the best steel and the teeth are extremely thin. You would brake any of the irons on exactly what you are using... a typical self healing cutting mat, THATS NOT GOOD my friend. Get a vinyl punching mat, they are like clear jelly and made for specifically punching stitching holes in leather. Also use a thick piece of scrap veg tan leather to punch ontop of for extra extra extra protection. I also buy those 1 1/2" thick blocks of solid black rubber that are 8" x 8", and I punch ontop of those as well. Stop punching into a self healing cutting mat, the second you don't strike those irons perfectly straight and dead on ( professional irons ) it's gonna SNAP TEETH!!! . The reason why the cheap ones weren't snapping like the higher quality one... the steel is super cheap and softer, so they just bend instead of snapping like a higher quality ones will. Tandy is terrible, their tools are like toys lol... BUT STOP PUNCHING INTO SWLF HEALING MATS. Hope you take my advice, cause it's gonna get costly with higher quality irons. Iam a professional artist and Bookbinder and avid leathercrafter.... ive learned this lesson the hard way and not using a self healing mat to punch stitching holes when i got into higher quality pricking irons. Hope you have a great day bud

[jmuraidajr]

I have been using my Tandy Lucky-7 tool set that I bought back in 1961 when I was a Kid in 7th grade! Since then I have bought more tools over the years from Tandy! I have been making holsters and tooling leather since then with no problems! What you ran into is what is going on today a lot of companies don't care about customers or customer service anymore! And a good example is, I was making toast the other day and it was hard to get the bread out because they cut down the size of the bread but charged you more!

[valeriebeaudoin]

I bought stitching chisels from Weaver Leather and they lasted me for YEARS before I finally upgraded to a sewing machine and then sold them on eBay for someone who I'm sure will be super happy with them as I was. I highly recommend them!

[ziggyfluff]

I know you have extensive experience in leatherwork, I have actually been looking at the Tandy Pro tools, and the store GM informed me that those pricking irons are just for marking the holes. She said that you mark the holes with the pro pricking iron, then use an awl (or stitching awl) to actually punch through the leather. I completely agree with you on the warranty issues that you had to deal with. Just figured i'd throw this out there for anyone who happens to read these comments

[maddawgnoll]

Pricking iron is for marking not punching. Stitching chissel is for punching holes... just saying.

I've never had any issues with tandy. But i typically get my supplies and tools from Weaver

[jimsiress]

Thanks for sharing this info. Tandy Leather just isn't the company it once was.

[Sizzlik]

Pricking irons are NOT for punching holes!! Read the description and learn the difference between pricking iron snd stitching chisel. Pricking irons are just to mark the leather and then you poke holes with an stitching awl. Stiching chisels (or stitinch forks) look very similar but are harder and for stamping holes in thick leather. Expensive tools are only worth it if you already "mastered" the craft..same with expensive kitchen knifes if youre just a basic homecook. Source: I made a similar mistake.

[dperisty]

Why don't you use a punching board?
You are punching on a cutting matt. :P

[AlexanderMason]

The issue with the stitching irons is that they use DC53 steel. 9t is an amazing steel for knives and blades tools because it has very good edge retention (it stays sharp for a long time). However, the high hardness of that steel makes it quite brittle. It also isn’t shock resistant at all. Therefore, DC53 is a terrible steel to use for stitching irons. These tools are made using EDM machining which is the most expensive but most precise machining possible. They are very well made/manufactured, however, the manufacturer obviously doesn’t know anything about metallurgy and steel. They also use 304 stainless steel for the stitch groover blades. 304 steel is an austenitic steel. It is a steel you use for kitchen sinks and utensils like spoons, forks, butter knives etc. Not tools that need to have an edge and stay sharp. It is very corrosion resistant due to the high levels of chromium and nickel (normal stainless steels only use chromium for corrosion resistance). That nickel makes it more corrosion resistant than regular stainless steels that only use chromium, it also makes the steel non magnetic, however it makes it so the steel cannot be heat treated or hardened. Therefore, it will get dull incredibly quickly. 304 is good for creasers or any tools that doesn’t need to hold an edge or be made of hardened steel, but should never be used for knives and bladed tools. If they upgrade their steel, Since leather will have incredibly high end tools. They also have good customer service, unlike Tandy. Better buy their tools from them directly on Etsy. They have their own seller account.

[christopherperrote]

I've never been disappointed with Vergez Blanchard tools, they cost a bit more, but they're fairly nice

[Rick_Sanchez_C_]

Thanks for the heads up, if I’m gonna use tools that are made cheaply and might break, there’s no reason to pay top dollar for them and never a reason to use a company who cares nothing for customer service while charging a premium.

[LKS-]

I'm new in my leather journey, we have a local Tandy. It's OK for starting off but as I get better, I'll upgrade to better.

[paulevans]

I have leatherwork professionally for over 45 years. I found the best way for making stich holes is with a Dremel tool and a small nail like a 4p or an stich needle. It's a whole lot cheaper, faster, more durable, and, has nicer stitch holes. Also, the best tools I have found by fare are C.S. Osborne or old Gompf tools. If you get the chance, attend the saddle makers get together and you'll learn a lifetime of knowledge from old saddle makers.

[D.J.M.]

I have the same Pro tools. I am also in a forum for leather tools history. Looking back on a comment teaching some of my students about making their own tools, I would agree with you about some of the typical manufacturing processes in the tools. I would like to say though that as I have learned about the pricking irons over the years, the different types, and history, I got wise. I started purchasing tools from Masters in leatherworking as second hand sales for pricking Irons. The vintage ones are excellent quality tools. They are reasonably priced as well. I use my 2.5mm Irons from Tandy for detail and watch straps. But I have new ones as well. Learning about them I learned about the types and ways the companies teach how to use them. But as I really got down to the nitty gritty and learned the differences between the WHY'S of the changes in tools and techniques used for over the 200 years. As a 30 year leatherworker it made a huge difference as to why certain pricking irons were used for horse and tack work and safety concerns because of the thread ripping through the leather with heavy use. And what tools I had to watch out for with integrity when it came down to purchasing. I still like the pro tools.