The Fatal Flaw of the 5.7L Hemi V8 Engine & How to Prevent It (2003-2008 Valve Seat Drop)

Today we are taking at look at the fatal flaw of the Gen III 5.7L Hemi V8, which is dropping valve seats. This issue was found in many of the 2003-2008 Hemis (pre-Eagle Hemi), engines under the hood of 9 different vehicles and many generations. This was an extremely popular engine, found in 9 different vehicles, and chosen on over 45% of cars and trucks where it was an option. It was also built at a profit, making it a financial success. But we’re not here today to talk about the success of the 5.7 Hemi, but rather the fatal flaw that has killed so many engines. This recently affected my Dodge Charger with the 5.7, so I decided to research the issue and look into it further, and shed some light on this issue, especially if you are considering buy a used vehicle that has this Hemi. In this video, we will look at the specs of the engine, and then look at the major issue of premature dropping valve seats, including what it is, what it affects, and how to prevent it from happening.
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SKIP AHEAD:
Engine Specs : 01:05
VALVE SEAT DROPPING ISSUE:
WHAT IS THE TECHNICAL ISSUE?: 03:10
WHAT ARE THE WARNING SIGNS & SYMPTOMS? 04:25
WHY DOES IT HAPPEN? 05:10
WHAT KIND OF DAMAGE DOES IT CAUSE? 05:47
HOW TO PREVENT THE ISSUE? 07:21
WHAT DOES CHRYSLER SAY ABOUT ALL THIS? 10:07
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#Hemi #Hemivalveseatdrop #HemiFlaw #5.7LHemi

[pettynerd]

It happened on my 2005 Magnum R/T at 220, 000 miles, luckily the exhaust valve bent trapping the valve seat and preventing any more engine damage. Got the head repaired for under $300 and that engine was still running good when I sold the Magnum with 318, 000 miles.

[GenHemiBuilder]

20 years as a Chrysler tech, the only time we would see a seat drop is from overheating. Pay close attention to your cooling system, and watch for lean conditions

[ernestpaul]

I have always been a fan of Chrysler, Dodge, Plymouth (Mopar) since I was a kid. I have had my share of pre-computer hot rods over the years. When the "new style Charger" came out I was very close to buying one (after the first teething model year went by). I was going to get a used one. Then the Hemi engine fiasco failings started to become public on a regular basis. I considered a V6 version but you know. So glad to see you have laid this all out on the how, what, why of the valve seat dilemma. One of the first things I would remove from the engine is the "dress up" plastic piece sitting on top of it retaining a bunch of heat.

[luxurylimo]

I experienced this same thing at 110k miles on my 2006 Charger R/T 5.7L. Had been freeway driving during the summer, pulled into apartment and shut off for a few moments waiting for my son. Started it back up and WHAMMY! The engine made a strange rumbling, then it stalled, never to start again! Thanks for the vid.

[Dravynx]

This happened to my Charger at 153000. Got the engine rebuilt and now it runs great

[lynseyluvsatwink]

I've solved my Hemi issues by encasing my entire engine bay in a block of ice. I live in the Nunavut Region so the ice block stays pretty stable until around mid May and is usually gone by early June.

[j.d.mcginn]

Wow great well researched video. This problem is easily resolved by doing what I've done for every water cooled ice vehicle I've ever had. Install a 160 stat and biggest aluminum radiator you can fit and tune for it. Done. The hemi will likely run as long as u would want it to. Last one went 175000 miles with 10000 mile oil changes still running just fine.

[LilB]

My heads went out right at 200, 000 miles in my 2006 300C ! I put 40, 000 of them on there. I bought it because it was one owner & clean. I’m getting new ones. I’m going to change that thermostat & try to take off the MDS. I would run straight pipe but I don’t want to make lots of noise. Just some. Great Video!

[DaNoopsie]

Great advice and good information. One thing I might add...if you get a handheld tuner you can also adjust the temperature at which the fans kick on. In my magnum I slapped in the 180° thermostat and have my fans kick on earlier. At idle I sit at around 193° and after spirited driving it spiked up to around 197-203°. I've seen as high as 213 but that was in the middle of Phoenix, AZ in July after doing a few pulls.

[jewelleryaddict]

My valve seat ring broke and dropped fell in cylinder scratched up beyond repair October 2024. It ran so good before that never a problem. 2005 Chrysler 300c. Little over hundred thousand miles. Do look for rebuilt or ? Love the car it's near showroom perfect in and out. Mine never overheated. Always kept the temp visible to myself in settings.

[jeremygallagher]

Recently bought an 08 Ram 1500 with the 5.7 knowing I'd need to do some engine work, I did not previously know about the valve seat issue but am glad I know now . Thanks for your very informative video .

[Sand]

223, 000 miles on my 07 Charger R/T and still runs like a champ.

[jebediahgentry]

Your power point skills are on... point!

[winter_in_vegas_]

Custom ordered 2006 Magnum RT AWD 127K mile and still going strong. I’m the daughter of the original owner and babied from day one till I got it. I have been rough on this car and don’t always get the maintenance done right away and it STILL runs super strong. I’ll mention I live in Las Vegas where the temps get really hot! I do play with auto stick periodically and never shut it off immediately after driving long periods. This video kinda scared me but I might already be doing a few things to prevent this from happening to my car. Thanks for making this video and bringing the issue to my attention.

[unstablebobgable]

It's a shame that Chrysler doesn't offer any recourse for the damaged engines. But I'm glad to see Marspeed is rebuilding his beautiful Daytona.

[frankpapaeliou]

2007 Dodge Charger 5.7L HEMI 137, 000 miles. Bought at auction mechanics special for $1200. Found it had a dropped valve seat in cylinder 4. Piston and right head were in bad shape. Block was ok just honed it out. Replaced head, piston from local recycled auto yard. Ordered gasket set, new oil filter and new oil, replaced thermostat to a 185 degree. I did all the labor total cost was $300.00. I live in Idaho where it gets cold and I did get a check engine light that the engine didn't reach proper temperature, which is ok by me. It's been about a year, and it runs great. I'm 73 and I don't abuse it. It reminds me of my '70 340 Duster, loved it.

[davidklein]

Excellent video, thanks so much for posting. I have a 2007 Magnum R/T with about 85, 000 miles on it and no problem so far. Just from collecting the anecdotes I figured out that it usually happens from a hot stop with a brief shutdown, like running errands or getting fuel. I also came up with your technique of idling, which I usually do for 45 s because that length of time seems to cause the temp gauge to drop sharply and it stabilizes thereafter. I also run the heater when I'm doing this, to draw more heat out of the engine.

[andrewhigdon]

Sorry if I’ve already commented on this as I could easily write a book about my experiences with my dealership and having a MaxCare Lifetime Bumper to Bumper Warranty on my 2006 Magnum RT bought new at same dealership. I’ll try to make this short. One day, summer, 15 minutes of idling with Ac full tilt, I hear a ping, look at gauges, temp gauge is pegged. Like, pegged, or at least middle of red section. No other warning at all, except the AC began not blowing cold right before that ping alarm. And I’m the kinda guy who would notice if my temp gauge was not dead middle as normal, so this went from normal temp to pegged in who knows how much time, but not long. Overflow was empty. Yet no water in the ground. I put water in, drive to gas station and put more in, can’t find any leak at all, drive home, bewildered. Very, very weird. This cycle went on for about two months, July through August in Charleston, SC. Hot. I always pay attention to fluids on the driveway, and I had never seen any water on the driveway, and never find water in the engine compartment. And on and on, it would ping the temp gauge maybe once a week or less, and sometimes I’d catch it in the 2 o’clock position. But even then, it never ran more than a few seconds after the heat alarm. So finally I started smelling coolant in the HVAC vents, however slight, but there. My father in law was with me one time, and he smiled it too, confirming. my sanity. So I eft it running and we both looked under the hood. Had he not been standing next to me I’m not sure if I’d ever have found this leak, but I was in front for the passenger headlight, bent over trying to see the fans and the radiator while the sun blazed over head. So when my face was right down near the top of the radiator, I felt moisture. I tried to feel it again and it took a few minutes to find it again, but couldn’t trace the source. It was weird as hell, knowing the car is using water, yet no evidence to speak of, and now felt water on my face, but when I tried to find its source I couldn’t find the water on my face for several minutes, but that’s because the water level had dropped. Finally I found the mist when I grabbed a powerful light to investigate. The tiniest, slightest, almost invisible stream of water was so fine it took holding the light just right to even see it, and feeling it was not as easy as you’d think. So this happened maybe right around 100, 000 miles, and then again the next fall, same scenario, same spot on the radiator. Since it is under warranty I didn’t inspect the leak too much, but I should have. And it appears that these leaky radiators are a common problem across the Chrysler line-up, yet not really paid any attention because people just assume, oh, a bad radiator. And replace it without any concern as to why. Also of note, each time this happened I lost the water pump and the AC compressor not long after the radiator replacement. The second time it also took out the alternator I believe. So here’s the hypothesis: pin hole leak in radiator such that it is so slow and so slight that you don’t even see water on the ground, no signs at all, everything seems fine until out of nowhere the engine is overheating. Owner tops off water, continues on, until it happens again, maybe days or weeks later. So under the radar that you could almost attribute it to the overflow tank owing water since it’s so hot and your cranking the AC and idling a lot. So you forget about it. What kind of coolant leak can take two weeks? So here’s what I think is happening. I’m very mechanically inclined and have been a gear head since 14. And this caught me off guard every time. Most people might not react so quickly or even know what to do, maybe they’re in stop and go rush hour traffic when it happens, as opposed to a parking lot or my driveway. So the engine overheats, but really overheats. Problem here is that where the temp sending unit is, the engine won’t know it’s running hot until there is so little water that at some point the water pump is no longer pumping water, the AC also not getting any cooling, and upper engine might not be getting enough water, yet the temp sending unit before that might not know it’s running hot, but the head do know it’s hot. Not sure about the water jacket routes. But I feel really lucky that my car hasn’t dropped a valve seat yet. Although I’ve never let it keep running while overheated, it has happened maybe twenty times or more over two radiators. So I think that when the water pump doesn’t have enough water running through it, from low coolant level, the bearing starts to cook, and maybe the seal is a side effect, or combined, but either the weep hole starts to drip, or the the bearing starts to whine, I’ve experienced both. Then about a month or so later the AC starts acting up. A little this, a little that. Then the compressor dies, one time spectacularly, squealing like crazy, smoke pouring out from under the hood, and when o went to look at it, there was bits of rubber being pushed out between the clutch and the casing. Wild stuff. So first radiator goes, then water pump, then AC comp, then maybe another AC component which was damaged form low water, then maybe the fans die, together or separately, after running too long when it’s too hot because there’s no water in the radiator. So radiator, water pump, AC parts, cooling fan, maybe valve seat, maybe o2 sensors, maybe cats get toooo hot, maybe the overflow tank gets damaged form it’s extra work. But the bottom line is that Chrysler knows about the faulty radiators, but does nothing, yet costing themselves thousand of warranty dollars more by denying it all. Who knows how many people had dropped valve seats, got blamed for driving the car hot, yet not realizing till much later that the radiator has a leak so insidious that it damages things without any normal warning signs. Entire engines pretty often. So all these customers get blamed for Chrysler’s mistake. Is that legit? You read the Magnusson/Moss Warranty Act, especially the Implied Warranty section and let me know. I say Chrysler is guilty as can be, and they didn’t count on any customers putting it all together. And that’s just the beginning gif the Chrysler/Dealership story.

[rodking]

So far, so good! I keep up on the maintenance and use Pennzoil high mileage/full synthetic oil. At 185, 000 my 2007 Hemi Durango is still running strong. Looking at the 2015 Chrysler 200 S for a second vehicle.

[billknight]

I have an 04 Ram 1500 Hemi non vvt thank god, I never heard of this valve seat issue before. Thanks for informing me of it, my Ram has been on countless long road trips, trips to the local strip and the street race with no issues other than her healthly appetite for 93 octane I run a tune and thats the octane needed for it. I would definitely buy another Ram with the Hemi any day.